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> dry sump plumbing
hedfurst
post Jan 28 2013, 05:49 PM
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Question for those of you who have dry-sumped your 4-cylinder cars.
What is the tank volume everyone's using and what are you doing to keep it from draining into the crank-case when the motor isn't running?

Thanks
Fred
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ChrisFoley
post Jan 28 2013, 07:04 PM
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3 gallon capacity is perfect.
If the bottom of the tank is level with the bottom of the engine there will be no issues with the engine overfilling with oil at rest.
f the tank is far above the engine sump you will need a special check valve.
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 28 2013, 08:34 PM
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Mine holds close to 10qts with a filter change. I bought an electronic valve to keep the oil from draining back into the sump but never installed it. My sump sits on the engine shelf so its above the case. mine leaks "maybe" a qt a week. And I run synthetic 30wt. I think it all depends on the tolerances of the oil pump.
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hedfurst
post Jan 28 2013, 09:05 PM
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Jan 28 2013, 05:04 PM) *

3 gallon capacity is perfect.
If the bottom of the tank is level with the bottom of the engine there will be no issues with the engine overfilling with oil at rest.
f the tank is far above the engine sump you will need a special check valve.

Where is your tank? My plumbing recommendations are that the tank-outlet be 200mm above the pump-inlet. I was looking at a 8quart tank-planned on putting it under the rear deck.
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hedfurst
post Jan 28 2013, 09:06 PM
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QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 28 2013, 06:34 PM) *

Mine holds close to 10qts with a filter change. I bought an electronic valve to keep the oil from draining back into the sump but never installed it. My sump sits on the engine shelf so its above the case. mine leaks "maybe" a qt a week. And I run synthetic 30wt. I think it all depends on the tolerances of the oil pump.


do you mind telling me where you got your talk?
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ChrisFoley
post Jan 28 2013, 10:02 PM
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QUOTE(hedfurst @ Jan 28 2013, 10:05 PM) *

QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Jan 28 2013, 05:04 PM) *

3 gallon capacity is perfect.
If the bottom of the tank is level with the bottom of the engine there will be no issues with the engine overfilling with oil at rest.
f the tank is far above the engine sump you will need a special check valve.

Where is your tank? My plumbing recommendations are that the tank-outlet be 200mm above the pump-inlet. I was looking at a 8quart tank-planned on putting it under the rear deck.

My race setup wouldn't be practical in a street car.
Tne oil tank is in the passenger footwell. I shaped the tank specifically for my F Production car.

I don't know why you would need the tank 8" above the pump, and putting it in the rear trunk would be much higher than that.

The tank capacity should be at least 1/3 larger than the volume of oil you want it to hold.
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 28 2013, 10:09 PM
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QUOTE(hedfurst @ Jan 28 2013, 07:06 PM) *

QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 28 2013, 06:34 PM) *

Mine holds close to 10qts with a filter change. I bought an electronic valve to keep the oil from draining back into the sump but never installed it. My sump sits on the engine shelf so its above the case. mine leaks "maybe" a qt a week. And I run synthetic 30wt. I think it all depends on the tolerances of the oil pump.


do you mind telling me where you got your talk?


Fred, I custom made my tank. Racer Chris was instrumental with my dry sump system. I didnt follow the conventional plumbing routing. I feel I improved upon it. There are many ways to do the system. And that depends on what oil pump you use.

Have you decided on a pump yet?

My Tank
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i722.photobucket.com-12492-1359432589.1.jpg)
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hedfurst
post Jan 29 2013, 09:49 AM
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QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 28 2013, 08:09 PM) *

QUOTE(hedfurst @ Jan 28 2013, 07:06 PM) *

QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 28 2013, 06:34 PM) *

Mine holds close to 10qts with a filter change. I bought an electronic valve to keep the oil from draining back into the sump but never installed it. My sump sits on the engine shelf so its above the case. mine leaks "maybe" a qt a week. And I run synthetic 30wt. I think it all depends on the tolerances of the oil pump.


do you mind telling me where you got your talk?


Fred, I custom made my tank. Racer Chris was instrumental with my dry sump system. I didnt follow the conventional plumbing routing. I feel I improved upon it. There are many ways to do the system. And that depends on what oil pump you use.


My Tank
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i722.photobucket.com-12492-1359432589.1.jpg)

Awesome tank. That's a great use of space.
I have a T. Pieper pump. Sure would appreciate any advice you would care to give.
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 29 2013, 10:07 AM
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I have seen pictures of that pump. They look to be a very good pump. Where did you find it? can you post pictures of it?

What are your system plans? Is the engine built yet?
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yeahmag
post Jan 29 2013, 04:22 PM
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Holy crap that's a nice tank! Here is the mock up I have for my tank, thermostat, and breather.

Attached Image
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hedfurst
post Jan 29 2013, 05:28 PM
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QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 29 2013, 08:07 AM) *

I have seen pictures of that pump. They look to be a very good pump. Where did you find it? can you post pictures of it?

What are your system plans? Is the engine built yet?


Not built yet. Just collecting rest of the parts now
Attached File  GetAttachment.aspx.jpeg ( 9.01k ) Number of downloads: 95
Attached File  GetAttachment.aspx.jpeg ( 9.37k ) Number of downloads: 93
Attached File  GetAttachment.aspx.jpeg ( 9.57k ) Number of downloads: 92

The pump came from the man himself in Germany. It was pricey but then it is an impressive piece of work.
I am very interested in more details about the construction of your tank.
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hedfurst
post Jan 29 2013, 05:30 PM
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not too sure about these pictures.
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Woody
post Jan 29 2013, 05:31 PM
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QUOTE(hedfurst @ Jan 29 2013, 05:30 PM) *

not too sure about these pictures.


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 29 2013, 05:44 PM
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I looked at the PT pump and autocraft pumps. Both of which are high quality pumps. I went with the cb pump. I did a few case modifications as well to improve oiling and block all the pressure relief stuff.

heres the spin chamber.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i722.photobucket.com-12492-1359503071.1.jpg)

and it spins the oil down into the tank.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i722.photobucket.com-12492-1359503072.2.jpg)

what you cant see in any of the pictures is the small upside down pyramid shape of the tank that exits oil thru the hole in the tin. the same hole the 914/6 uses.
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hedfurst
post Jan 29 2013, 06:13 PM
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Wow. How long long did it take to make? Could you expand on the pyramid? How thick is the aluminium? 2 return tubes?
I've never had a chance to really examine a 6.
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 29 2013, 06:26 PM
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QUOTE(hedfurst @ Jan 29 2013, 04:13 PM) *

Wow. How long long did it take to make? Could you expand on the pyramid? How thick is the aluminium? 2 return tubes?
I've never had a chance to really examine a 6.


uhh not long. a day or two. I say pyramid, but it just the way the tank tapers down to a point. like a funnel. then exits out the side of the taper. your car has the exit hole also....on the drivers side down in the hell hole there should be like a 1'' hole down there.

I was going to use a cylindrical tank like yeamag but i just couldnt make it fit there.

I cant remeber the thikness, .030? i know it was too thin for my tig skills. the next one i make im gonna make it from 0.100. i used T6 sheet.
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mrbubblehead
post Jan 29 2013, 06:31 PM
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yes two return tubes. one from the pump and one from my remote filter which also incorporates a pressure relief. i think it bleeds at 70 or 80 lbs. my case has no bypass or relief so it gettin the straight juice.
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hedfurst
post Jan 29 2013, 08:50 PM
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How is the case having no bypass/relief beneficial?
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ChrisFoley
post Jan 29 2013, 09:49 PM
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QUOTE(hedfurst @ Jan 29 2013, 09:50 PM) *

How is the case having no bypass/relief beneficial?

A pressure limiting valve of some kind is needed. You don't really ever want the oil pressure to exceed 80 psi.
Doug's is incorporated in his filter adapter.
I use an adjustable unit made by Parker (fluid controls), screwed into the side of the crankcase.
An external relief valve routes the excess oil back to the dry sump tank rather than back into the engine sump as the stock relief valve does.
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hedfurst
post Feb 2 2013, 08:47 PM
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QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 28 2013, 08:09 PM) *

QUOTE(hedfurst @ Jan 28 2013, 07:06 PM) *

QUOTE(mrbubblehead @ Jan 28 2013, 06:34 PM) *

Mine holds close to 10qts with a filter change. I bought an electronic valve to keep the oil from draining back into the sump but never installed it. My sump sits on the engine shelf so its above the case. mine leaks "maybe" a qt a week. And I run synthetic 30wt. I think it all depends on the tolerances of the oil pump.


do you mind telling me where you got your talk?


Fred, I custom made my tank. Racer Chris was instrumental with my dry sump system. I didnt follow the conventional plumbing routing. I feel I improved upon it. There are many ways to do the system. And that depends on what oil pump you use.

Have you decided on a pump yet?

My Tank
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i722.photobucket.com-12492-1359432589.1.jpg)

What are the other structures on top of your tank near the firewall?
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