Is it possible to drop a 1.7 using a 4 post lift? Options

[doug_b_928]

I've been reading in anticipation of starting my restoration this year. I've seen posts where some have used a two post lift to remove their engines. I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the engine using a 4 post lift with 32" of clearance between the rails. My 914 is in storage a couple of hours away so I can't measure the width of the engine and tins etc. I'm guessing that 32" is not enough space, but am wondering if there is some (reasonably easy) way that it can be done.

[914Sixer]

Right of the top of my head I would say no with out measuring.

[worn]

I've been reading in anticipation of starting my restoration this year. I've seen posts where some have used a two post lift to remove their engines. I'm wondering if it's possible to remove the engine using a 4 post lift with 32" of clearance between the rails. My 914 is in storage a couple of hours away so I can't measure the width of the engine and tins etc. I'm guessing that 32" is not enough space, but am wondering if there is some (reasonably easy) way that it can be done.

I know that with the alternator engine tin in place it is 36 inches.

[somd914]

Agree that the tin is 36 inches, best I can measure with a spare engine is about 30-32" intake runners on, injectors out. I've heard some say it is possible to remove the tin in the car, others say no.

Dropping it is easy though. I prefer to get the wheels on blocks about 8-10 high, remove the carbs or air box for FI, remove the rear valence, and with a floor jack lower the engine and roll it out the back.

There are other easy methods out there, search the World or also look at the Bird for their tech article.

[914itis]

Agree that the tin is 36 inches, best I can measure with a spare engine is about 30-32" intake runners on, injectors out. I've heard some say it is possible to remove the tin in the car, others say no.

Dropping it is easy though. I prefer to get the wheels on blocks about 8-10 high, remove the carbs or air box for FI, remove the rear valence, and with a floor jack lower the engine and roll it out the back.

There are other easy methods out there, search the World or also look at the Bird for their tech article.

Yes, it is possible to remove the thins. I don't think I would do it again, but doable.

[doug_b_928]

how wide are Harold's rear rims though?



here are 7inch fuchs with 911 offset
(different offset)

these have 1 inch spacers and still plenty of room
I have test fit 8's on the car and honestly might be able to run 8's with some spacer

but the fenders are VERY worked over and not stock at all:

Okay, ramps/stands it is. Thanks, guys.

[euro911]

Danmar D7000 (or D7) 4-post lift

Width Between Runways: 37-1/2" / 953 mm.

[KaptKaos]

How wide are the runways if there is only 32" of clearance between them?

[Gint]

Doug,

My four post isn't wide enough to drop a motor without removing the tins. I don't bother with that either. I just do it the old fashioned way.

[brant]

Doug,

My four post isn't wide enough to drop a motor without removing the tins. I don't bother with that either. I just do it the old fashioned way.

but we still did it once...
remember when we hung the back of the car off the lift at your old house and put a motor into that green 914?

[JmuRiz]

I can drop my engine with my 4-post lift, but I got the wider BendPak HD-9 (knowing I'd need the extra width for when I did an engine drop) and I was JUUUUUST able to get the engine bar between the rails....tins, bar and all installed.

When I'm done putting my car back together I'll set the ramps close so it'll be easier to drive-on.

[doug_b_928]

I have the Direct Lift PP8S. Dimensions are below. I didn't have room for anything bigger and it fits perfectly in my garage, but this is the first limitation I've come across. As you can see in the schematic below, it says 38" between the ramps, but the flanges that the jacks run on are 3" on the inside of each ramp, so only 32" of open space.

[JmuRiz]

Gotcha, I think that's like the narrow side of mine...mine can widen out to 44". Is there any room to move the ramp w/o the ram over?
If not, I guess it's on-to doing it the old way (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

[mskala]

I had a thread about this some time ago. I, too, had room to move the non-
hydraulics-holding rail farther out. But also I was able to turn it around to
move the lip to the outside, gaining about 3" that way. You may be able to
turn it and/or notch the lip on the other side without hurting anything.

[doug_b_928]

I don't think my lift is width adjustable. Turning around the lift ramp is creative solution, but it's not practical for me to do that.

I'm guessing it's a lot easier to just use some old car ramps (I hope).

[euro911]

If you don't have the clearance between the runways, try this method:

Drive the front wheels onto the lift runways and remove the ramps.

Place an appropriate length 4x4 near the rear end, across the runways.

Drive or push the car forward enough to align the rear donuts above the 4x4.

Raise the lift. (The complete drive train will be hanging off the end of the lift).

If not already done, remove all necessary wiring, hoses, etc., then remove the exhaust system. You may want to remove the rear wheels, but it's not necessary.

Lower the lift and support the drive train with jack, or a hydraulic table, then unbolt all the mounts.

Raise the lift and pull the drive train out of the way.

[doug_b_928]

If you don't have the clearance between the runways, try this method:

Drive the front wheels onto the lift runways and remove the ramps.

Place an appropriate length 4x4 near the rear end, across the runways.

Drive or push the car forward enough to align the rear donuts above the 4x4.

Raise the lift. (The complete drive train will be hanging off the end of the lift).

If not already done, remove all necessary wiring, hoses, etc., then remove the exhaust system. You may want to remove the rear wheels, but it's not necessary.

Lower the lift and support the drive train with jack, or a hydraulic table, then unbolt all the mounts.

Raise the lift and pull the drive train out of the way.

This is a very interesting idea. I have a jack that sits between the rails. So, instead of a 4 x 4, I could drive the car onto the lift, and with the jack in the furthest rearward position, align the rear donuts to the jack, then raise the jack. Then raise the lift.

Then next question is, I know the weight on the lift should be evenly distributed, would doing it this way be enough weight distribution on the front of the lift to prevent it from tilting backwards? I would only raise the lift to the first lock, but I think the first lock is about 24" from the floor.

[KaptKaos]

Why do I have visions of Karl's Lotus Elise flashing in my mind right now??

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i8.photobucket.com-607-1360103094.1.jpg)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

I am not a fan of this plan. I think the car will fall off of the back of the ramp because most of the weight will be hanging off the rear.

I still don't get the logistics of the runways being so close. A picture would help a lot.

[stugray]

If you had a nice pick point above the engine bay you could:

Remove engine bay lid
Position car up on lift - med/low
Hook engine to chain-fall through engine bay opening to ceiling & take slack. remove mount bolts.
Slowly raise the car using the lift.

All that really buys you is the ability to twist the engine to gain a few extra inches of clearance.
However it depends on where you could lift from on the top of the engine with the pick point(s)...

Once you get it past the lift rails raise the car up , set the engine down onto a dolly or straight to the stand.
I have wanted an overhead lift tab just for picking the engines up from the dolly to put them on the engine stand.

Stu

[doug_b_928]

That picture of the Elise is frightening.

I just have a typical wooden structure in my garage. I would worry about putting the weight of an engine on it.

Back to the car ramps/jack stands....