Paint fail. Well kinda., I see lots of color sanding in my near future. |
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Paint fail. Well kinda., I see lots of color sanding in my near future. |
Elliot Cannon |
Apr 2 2013, 03:59 PM
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#1
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
After my first shot at painting, it seems I might have been moving the gun a little too fast? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) I don't think enough paint flowed on to the fenders. This was after 4 coats, waiting about 20 minutes between coats. The paint store advised me to mix the paint and hardener 3:1 which I did through use of a graduated cup. I'm learning about painting and now I guess I'll be learning about color sanding. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
If anyone has done some color sanding, I could use some advice. I'll also consult with the auto body shop that has been advising me as well. This has all been fun and interesting and I'm looking forward to doing more. These pics show my results pretty well. Lots more work to do. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) Attached image(s) |
MoveQik |
Apr 2 2013, 04:06 PM
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#2
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What size wheels can I fit? Group: Members Posts: 4,645 Joined: 5-April 05 From: Scottsdale, AZ Member No.: 3,881 Region Association: Southwest Region |
Ell-yut, I think it looks great. What brand pf bedliner material did you use? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
See you Friday! |
brant |
Apr 2 2013, 04:16 PM
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#3
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 11,624 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Colorado Member No.: 47 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
I've been there more than a few times.
I've even tried different guns but its a skill with color sanding, I've noticed that there is a window for it. after a few days the paint continues to harden and the color sanding gets harder too I also found when I color sanded, that you are likely going to burn through some edges as you learn. so a respray is a possiblity. A polishing machine really helps bring back the shine after color sanding too. brant |
kid914 |
Apr 2 2013, 04:25 PM
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#4
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ALWAYS lead...NEVER follow!!!! Group: Members Posts: 2,534 Joined: 9-March 11 From: Canada Member No.: 12,811 Region Association: Canada |
Hmmm! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) almost looks SATIN BLACK!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif)
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Elliot Cannon |
Apr 2 2013, 04:27 PM
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#5
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
Ell-yut, I think it looks great. What brand pf bedliner material did you use? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) See you Friday! Thousands of vortex generators just might make it go faster. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) |
bulitt |
Apr 2 2013, 04:51 PM
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#6
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Achtzylinder Group: Members Posts: 4,188 Joined: 2-October 11 Member No.: 13,632 Region Association: South East States |
Almost looks like it was too cold. Was this a single stage?
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ThePaintedMan |
Apr 2 2013, 05:45 PM
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#7
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 3,886 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States |
Elliot, your initial diagnosis sounds familiar to me. Scotty or one of the other paint Gods will chime in, but it does look as if you moved too fast at your final coat. The last coat on each panel should be the thickest and very glossy. Its tricky to do on vertical panels and you will eventually learn to read the paint (to tell whether it's thick enough or about to run!) This is also why excellent lighting is a must.
Regarding color sanding, you need to give the solvents in the paint some time to flash off. 95% will flash in a couple days, but some paints take up to a month, depending on heat and humidity. You may be able to color sand that, if your clear coats are thick enough. But you will most likely end up with orange peel and/or burn through. The "pits/valleys" in that clear look pretty deep to me. |
rick 918-S |
Apr 2 2013, 05:55 PM
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#8
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Hey nice rack! -Celette Group: Members Posts: 20,460 Joined: 30-December 02 From: Now in Superior WI Member No.: 43 Region Association: Northstar Region |
What type of paint are you using? Brand and type. Single stage or base coat/clear coat.
It looks blushed like lacquer sprayed in a cold humid climate. Did you add any reducer? the viscosity could have been too thick. 3:1 sounds like single stage urethane but you need one part reducer in that equation to help get rid of the cellulose. |
Elliot Cannon |
Apr 2 2013, 07:08 PM
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#9
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
What type of paint are you using? Brand and type. Single stage or base coat/clear coat. It looks blushed like lacquer sprayed in a cold humid climate. Did you add any reducer? the viscosity could have been too thick. 3:1 sounds like single stage urethane but you need one part reducer in that equation to help get rid of the cellulose. I used a single stage urethane paint. It's a General Motors paint. The store that sold me the paint didn't say anything using a reducer with it. I used it for the primer and I could see the reason for reducer in the primer 'cause it was a bit thicker. I used a paint gun with a 1.8 nozzle for the primer and a seperate gun with a 1.3 for the paint. There were some sections that went on really smooth and I think it's because I slowed the movement of the gun way down and let much more paint flow on. The GM paint I used goes on very easily but I was just too afraid of the paint running. An absolute learning experience for me and I believe not unlike welding it is as much art as science. I'll try to color sand it and if I don't like how that is, I'll block sand it and shoot it again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I'll certainly ask about using reducer to get rid of cellulose. I expect to be really good at this about the same time I become a reallly good welder. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif) |
Elliot Cannon |
Apr 2 2013, 07:10 PM
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#10
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
Hmmm! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) almost looks SATIN BLACK!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/first.gif) I considered that. For about a second. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) |
Elliot Cannon |
Apr 2 2013, 07:13 PM
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#11
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914 Guru Group: Retired Members Posts: 8,487 Joined: 29-December 06 From: Paso Robles Ca. (Central coast) Member No.: 7,407 Region Association: None |
Ell-yut, I think it looks great. What brand pf bedliner material did you use? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) See you Friday! I used the same stuff you used on the rocker panels. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif) See ya Friday. I'll have to bring the wine tasting bus. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif) |
euro911 |
Apr 2 2013, 07:25 PM
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#12
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Retired & living the dream. God help me if I wake up! Group: Members Posts: 8,849 Joined: 2-December 06 From: So.Cal. & No.AZ (USA) Member No.: 7,300 Region Association: Southern California |
Ell-yut, I think it looks great. What brand pf bedliner material did you use? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) |
r_towle |
Apr 2 2013, 07:27 PM
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#13
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Get some sleep, sand it down again, mix it right and paint it again tomorrow.....
You have nothing better to do, so keep learning. Your second career could be as a body shop. R |
sixnotfour |
Apr 2 2013, 07:28 PM
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#14
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914 Wizard Group: Members Posts: 10,432 Joined: 12-September 04 From: Life Elevated..planet UT. Member No.: 2,744 Region Association: Rocky Mountains |
Correction....Painter Failure
try and try again... |
Chris Pincetich |
Apr 2 2013, 07:42 PM
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#15
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B-) Group: Members Posts: 2,082 Joined: 3-October 05 From: Point Reyes Station, CA Member No.: 4,907 Region Association: Northern California |
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ChrisFoley |
Apr 2 2013, 07:43 PM
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#16
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I am Tangerine Racing Group: Members Posts: 7,925 Joined: 29-January 03 From: Bolton, CT Member No.: 209 Region Association: None |
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saigon71 |
Apr 2 2013, 07:44 PM
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#17
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Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,998 Joined: 1-June 09 From: Dillsburg, PA Member No.: 10,428 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
Wish I had some advice, but instead I am following this thread closely as I will be painting in the next few months. Plese keep it updated. Above all - good luck! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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76-914 |
Apr 2 2013, 08:00 PM
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#18
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,502 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
Looks like it wasn't wet enough. How far away was the guns tip from the surface? Get a practice piece, some very good lights (daylight ain't good enough for our old eyes). Place the lights at an angle to the piece being sprayed so that you can see the reflection of the light bulb off of the paint your laying down. This helps with the speed control because you will see the light reflect off of the wet surface. If you want to sand it get some packs (as in 60 packs) of some 800, 1000, 1200, 1500, 2000 wet/dry and a little soapy water and start buffing orrrrrrrrrrrr rough it up and shoot it again. Also, a viscosity gage is cheap. One other thing. Your paint store should give you some mixing tips for the paint your using when you tell them the expected temp for the shoot day. Just generally like 70, 80, 90 degrees. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) ps I think your about 30 yr's too late with the respirator. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)
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scotty b |
Apr 2 2013, 08:21 PM
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#19
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
Jesus jumped up cowshit man !! Were you about 2 feet away from the car as well ? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)
Seriously. give it a day or 2 to setup. Wet sand it with 600, it will only help to make it fltter and smoother. Please post a pic of the paint can. GM paint doesn't tell us anything, I've never heard of a base clear that doesn't get reduced, and even on single stages that don't call for reducer, I still reduce it. It lays out slicker BUT is also easier to run. 1.3 tip is fine for base and or clear. I personally use a 1.4 for base and single stage, and a 1.3 for clear only, but either is well within the realm. You HAVE to watch the paint as you lay it down, watch how it flows, watch for any reacitons, and if something doesn't look right STOP right there. Yeah, it takes a lot of learning curve to be able to work with different paints, differing temps, consitions etc, but it isn't rocket science. think of your first coat as a rough draft for the fianl copy. Put it on dry ( med wet ) let it setup for a bit ( until it is nice and stringy to the touch ) then put the subsequent coats on heavier each time, giving more setup time inbetween. If I tell you any more, you'll run it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/rolleyes.gif) FWIW, we all have our days. I have a 64 Falcon I shot last thursday I am having to wet sand buff the whole thing due to my filter setup f-ing me over in the middle of clearing. I ended up with 10 lbs of air pressure at the gun by the second coat and had to finish. SUPER reduced the last 2 coats, and slowed down to the point I would normally have had Niagra falls down the side of the car, just to get it on and layed out to a point I could work with it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif) |
scotty b |
Apr 2 2013, 08:24 PM
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#20
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rust free you say ? Group: Members Posts: 16,375 Joined: 7-January 05 From: richmond, Va. Member No.: 3,419 Region Association: None |
also you say 3:1 so I assume it is single stage ? With a 1.3 tip, I'd go with 3:1:1, or 3:1:.5 if you want to play it safe
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