Grinding into 2nd, SOLVED but new problem...which oil to fill? Options

[larss]

After replacing bushings at my 914/4 -72 tailshift and re-adjusting the linkage I have a almost perfect shift in any gears and at any speed.
The only problem (right now) is that when starting cold in the morning (say 50-55F) there is a grind when shifting into 2nd. This is during the first minutes only, after that shifting into 2nd is like a dream again. The grind is wery noisy, almost as I try to get in reverse.

I run Swepco 201.

Any ideas?


/Lars S

[billh1963]

Typical issue. Take it easy shifting into 2nd until the gear oil warms up.

[larss]

Typical issue. Take it easy shifting into 2nd until the gear oil warms up.

Thanks!

Any idea to use another oil to elliminate this?

/Lars S

[billh1963]

Per Dr. Evil, "Use 80w90 GL5 rated oil only"

Transmission Fluid discussion

Looks like some people use Swepco with no issues.

Most 901's will balk on the 1st to 2nd shift when cold.

All of my 914's have very nice transmissions (one of them is a Dr. Evil rebuild) and none of them like cold weather.

[Dr Evil]

You say it grinds like when you are going into reverse? It should NEVER grind going into reverse. That is a sign that your clutch is not disengaging all the way. Tighten your cable and see if your grinding in R and 2nd disappear. Also, your synchro band on 2nd is likely worn, but if a simple tightening of the cable clears this up then dont worry about it.

It is true that oil may take some time to get around, and things to warm up and work well, but the "grind into reverse" symptom is classic for something needing adjustment.

[larss]

You say it grinds like when you are going into second? It should NEVER grind going into second. That is a sign that your clutch is not disengaging all the way...

Thanks
Yes, the only time there is a grind is when cold and going into 2nd. The sound is like if I was trying to put in reverse when the car is moving forward, wery high frequent. When warm everhing is O.K
Will try tightening the clutch wire.

/Lars S

[billh1963]

You say it grinds like when you are going into second? It should NEVER grind going into second. That is a sign that your clutch is not disengaging all the way. Tighten your cable and see if your grinding in R and 2nd disappear. Also, your synchro band on 2nd is likely worn, but if a simple tightening of the cable clears this up then dont worry about it.

It is true that oil may take some time to get around, and things to warm up and work well, but the "grind into reverse" symptom is classic for something needing adjustment.

True...I missed the part about "grinding like going into reverse" (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

I was thinking about the "graunch" you get if trying to speed shift a cold transmission!

[Dr Evil]

Sorry, Lars. Typo, it should NEVER grind going into REVERSE (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I will fix that.

[larss]

Solved my original problem which was:
when starting cold in the morning (say 50-55F) there is a grind when shifting into 2nd. This is during the first minutes only, after that shifting into 2nd is like a dream again. The grind is wery noisy, almost as I try to get in reverse.

-First I tried another 80W/90 GL5 oil type, no significant change.

-Second I tightened the clutch wire, no significant change.

-Third, after realising that the grind noise was actually the reverse being hit, I made a one spline twist at the shifting rod (in the tunnel) - this solved the problem!

No more grinding in any gear only one new problem:
1st gear sits wery hard, when shifting fom 1st into 2nd a lot of force has to be used before 1st comes out of its "interlock".

Any thoughts about this?


/Lars S

[Cap'n Krusty]

Remove the shifter assembly and carefully inspect the lockout plate and the condition of the lever. Odds are both are worn. Plates are still available, I believe. (Part number for the plate is 901 724 017 00.) If not, or if you're willing to put forth A little effort and can weld, you can repair the plate and the shaft by hardfacing both and grinding/filing them back to where they should be. A MIG welder should do the job right.

The Cap'n

[larss]

Remove the shifter assembly and carefully inspect the lockout plate and the condition of the lever. Odds are both are worn. Plates are still available, I believe. (Part number for the plate is 901 724 017 00.) If not, or if you're willing to put forth A little effort and can weld, you can repair the plate and the shaft by hardfacing both and grinding/filing them back to where they should be. A MIG welder should do the job right.

The Cap'n

Thanks Cap'n!
Before I started to look at the plate I made another check on the rod joint in the tunnel, I could then see (from close photos before/after) that instead of just twisting the rear rod one spline I had twisted it 3 splines, Sorry for that misinformation! Twisted the rod back 2 splines and tested: it shifts like a dream, no more grinding into 2nd and no more hard shifting out of 1st, all gears perfect.


My only remaining question is: should I keep the good brand (ELF) GL5 80W/90 oil which I just changed to in looking for shifting improvments, or should I go back to the Swepco 201 which i saved?


/Lars S

[914itis]

Remove the shifter assembly and carefully inspect the lockout plate and the condition of the lever. Odds are both are worn. Plates are still available, I believe. (Part number for the plate is 901 724 017 00.) If not, or if you're willing to put forth A little effort and can weld, you can repair the plate and the shaft by hardfacing both and grinding/filing them back to where they should be. A MIG welder should do the job right.

The Cap'n

Thanks Cap'n!
Before I started to look at the plate I made another check on the rod joint in the tunnel, I could then see (from close photos before/after) that instead of just twisting the rear rod one spline I had twisted it 3 splines, Sorry for that misinformation! Twisted the rod back 2 splines and tested: it shifts like a dream, no more grinding into 2nd and no more hard shifting out of 1st, all gears perfect.


My only remaining question is: should I keep the good brand (ELF) GL5 80W/90 oil which I just changed to in looking for shifting improvments, or should I go back to the Swepco 201 which i saved?


/Lars S

Did you have to twist the rod to the left or right ?

[larss]

The rear rod twisted to the left, seen from the back of the car, one tiny spline made it all.



/Lars S

[914itis]

Thanks,
Having the same issue

[larss]

Thanks,
Having the same issue

Whish you find the right spline as I did . Right now shifting is perfect but I guesd any wear in bushings, engine or trans mounts etc will make me have to afjust again. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

/Lars S

[Cap'n Krusty]

Remove the shifter assembly and carefully inspect the lockout plate and the condition of the lever. Odds are both are worn. Plates are still available, I believe. (Part number for the plate is 901 724 017 00.) If not, or if you're willing to put forth A little effort and can weld, you can repair the plate and the shaft by hardfacing both and grinding/filing them back to where they should be. A MIG welder should do the job right.

The Cap'n

Thanks Cap'n!
Before I started to look at the plate I made another check on the rod joint in the tunnel, I could then see (from close photos before/after) that instead of just twisting the rear rod one spline I had twisted it 3 splines, Sorry for that misinformation! Twisted the rod back 2 splines and tested: it shifts like a dream, no more grinding into 2nd and no more hard shifting out of 1st, all gears perfect.


My only remaining question is: should I keep the good brand (ELF) GL5 80W/90 oil which I just changed to in looking for shifting improvments, or should I go back to the Swepco 201 which i saved?


/Lars S

Put the Swepco in a jug and hang onto it. Personally, I think Swepco products are a solution looking for a problem, and they are really good at removing the deposits of cash that coat the interior of your wallet. The gear oil you have in it now will be good for years, if not decades. The only thing that goes wrong with gear oil is an accumulation of particulates. It doesn't suffer from breakdown as a result of the combustion process like engine oil.

The Cap'n