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> Help with removing/replacing gear selector shaft seal, Wrong replacement?
john_g
post Jul 4 2013, 08:27 PM
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I'm replacing the shaft seal and the O-ring in the gear selector console, and I'm having trouble removing the old shaft seal. The top rim of the seal is metal, and it won't budge. I've dug out the rubber part of the seal underneath it, but that's it. Also, the replacement I have is all rubber - the right diameter, but clearly not the same (part number is 900-112-001-50). See photo - any help/advice for me?Attached Image
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euro911
post Jul 4 2013, 08:37 PM
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It may be tight, but should come out with enough leverage. Use a piece of plastic or hard wood for a fulcrum so you don't bugger up the console.

Here's a tech article on Pelican Click Here
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john_g
post Jul 4 2013, 08:52 PM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Jul 4 2013, 07:37 PM) *

It may be tight, but should come out with enough leverage. Use a piece of plastic or hard wood for a fulcrum so you don't bugger up the console.

Here's a tech article on Pelican Click Here



Yeah, thanks, I've read the article. And I was wrong, the replacement must have some metal imbedded inside the rubber, 'cause it's pretty hard and inflexible. Just not on the top of the rim. I've double checked with the Porsche and Pelican catalogue and that is the correct part number. I've give the fulcrum idea a try, although I have already pried on it pretty hard.
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mrholland2
post Jul 4 2013, 09:38 PM
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I JUST did this. It is difficult to get the old one out, but you have the correct part.

Sean

QUOTE(john_g @ Jul 4 2013, 07:52 PM) *

QUOTE(euro911 @ Jul 4 2013, 07:37 PM) *

It may be tight, but should come out with enough leverage. Use a piece of plastic or hard wood for a fulcrum so you don't bugger up the console.

Here's a tech article on Pelican Click Here



Yeah, thanks, I've read the article. And I was wrong, the replacement must have some metal imbedded inside the rubber, 'cause it's pretty hard and inflexible. Just not on the top of the rim. I've double checked with the Porsche and Pelican catalogue and that is the correct part number. I've give the fulcrum idea a try, although I have already pried on it pretty hard.
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john_g
post Jul 5 2013, 04:27 PM
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Got the old one out and the new one in!

Next Q: what's the torque setting for the two 13 mm nuts that hold the console onto the transmission housing?
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Dr Evil
post Jul 5 2013, 04:36 PM
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regular tq for a 13mm nut....I dont know off hand, I just use my natural tq wrench (hand).
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john_g
post Jul 5 2013, 06:12 PM
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Thanks, Dr. That's what I did (probably about 18 ft.-lbs).
Now I've got all new bushings in the linkage and seals in the selector shaft.
Wasn't hard, except for getting the shaft seal out and putting the firewall bushing in - I just about dislocated my thumbs trying to snap that thing in. I finally cheated by shaving a bit off the lip and heating it up with a hair dryer before I pushed it in.

Now let's hope that it passes the drive test - I hope I installed the shifting forks properly (did it with the tranny in neutral).
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mrholland2
post Jul 5 2013, 06:17 PM
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I don't think you can screw that part up, to be honest. . it just won't go in.

Did you replace the skinny little "rubber" O ring that is about 2" across?


QUOTE(john_g @ Jul 5 2013, 05:12 PM) *

Thanks, Dr. That's what I did (probably about 18 ft.-lbs).
Now I've got all new bushings in the linkage and seals in the selector shaft.
Wasn't hard, except for getting the shaft seal out and putting the firewall bushing in - I just about dislocated my thumbs trying to snap that thing in. I finally cheated by shaving a bit off the lip and heating it up with a hair dryer before I pushed it in.

Now let's hope that it passes the drive test - I hope I installed the shifting forks properly (did it with the tranny in neutral).
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stugray
post Jul 5 2013, 09:34 PM
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QUOTE
and putting the firewall bushing in - I just about dislocated my thumbs trying to snap that thing in. I finally cheated by shaving a bit off the lip and heating it up with a hair dryer before I pushed it in.


I just did this: I used two huge washers and a long bolt.
I put the bushing in between the washers and threaded the bolt through the hole.
Tightened the nut enough and the bushing snapped right in.
The "heat it up in some water" didnt work at all for me.

Stu
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john_g
post Jul 6 2013, 10:20 AM
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Did you replace the skinny little "rubber" O ring that is about 2" across?






Oh, yeah.

Everything is back together and it shifts fine now.
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stugray
post Jul 6 2013, 11:10 AM
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There was no rubber O-ring with my bushing.
It was an early model "special" to convert to side shift.

Maybe it is different.

Stu
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Dave_Darling
post Jul 6 2013, 12:56 PM
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Not at the firewall, Stu--around the side-shift console itself.

--DD
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john_g
post Jul 6 2013, 04:38 PM
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Stu,
This is the O-ring from the selector console (part number 999-701-359-40):

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stugray
post Jul 6 2013, 07:56 PM
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Ahhh. I was referring to my comment about the firewall bushing.

I did the shift console too, but the seal in question looked so new that I chose to not mess with it. (spare at the ready ;-)

Stu
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