German 8 Tor The build, let the good times roll Options

[spare time toys]

QUOTE (Brando @ Jan 17 2005, 09:21 PM)

yummy! Asides from the wrong-sized plate of aluminum and exhaust studs, no other problems yet i presume?

No just the normal snag here and there Like need a special tool or more than just me to do something and have to motovate the boys (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/alfred.gif)

[r_towle]

Could you please explain the need for modifying the oil pan???

Thanx

Rich

[rick 918-S]

The oil pan on the 928 motor sticks out the front like a big foot It hits all the cable tubes coming out of the firewall. The sides buldgeout as well. The left side needs to be trimmed for the shift linkage. Even with the trim on the left side I needed to use tail shift linkage to get the added couple of inches the fire wall pivot adds. The movement is the same from the side shift to the tail shift. I just added the side shift end onto the linkage. Also the drain plug is on the left. I needs to be moved to the right side again for the shift linkage. Worked for me.

Larry, I was going to suggest you move these photos over to your post. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wavey.gif)

[r_towle]

Rich,
you are certainly a guy with balls.

I want to ask a question regarding length..

I am 6'2" and a really want to do this conversion,but I cannot give up any of my seat room.

Is there anything on the front of the engine that could be relocated, run remotely, or deleted that might make it shorter and thereby not require the firewall being cut away?

I have thought of putting two cars together and adding the 5 inches to the door area...I think it would be the easiest place to hide it.

Then the firewall can be moved, but not with a stock pan.

Rich

[rick 918-S]

r_towle response:

Larry,

Post that picture of the tape measure on the head rest. I can't find the copy on my computer. Larry is tall also. I think I recall something like this. Rock the seat forward then move it back until the headrest is about 4 3/4 " from the base of the back glass. If you fit you can do this conversion. If you need your seat against the backpad forget it. There is a couple of engineers in CA. that moved the motor back so far they needed to lengthen the trailing arms 5" I never like the look personally. I thought the car looked like a tow truck without the boom. I have a photo on another computer.

[r_towle]

looking at that motor on the stand...and given that you already cut the oil pan...

All the rest looks like it can be moved except the timing belt.
And it looks to b about 4+ inches (i am sure its not all that much, but its something.)

Can you take a couple of shots of the front of the motor??

Close front view and side view please?????

Rich

[rick 918-S]

Search through this thread about my car. There should be several shots that will give you a better idea of the engine placement. If you still need more PM me and I'll try to get you what you need. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wavey.gif) check page 10 and page 16

alien conversion thread

[ClayPerrine]

I have been over to see the motor for this project. I have not seen Rick's Alien. Looking at the motor on the stand, it looks like it could be backed up farther than Rick has his. The difference being that Rick's 928 is using CIS, and the fuel distributor is located on the back of the motor. Larry's motor is using DME, and the only thing back there is the AFM, and it could be put in the rear trunk. Just my opinion, but I think it could be backed up about 5 or 6 inches to add to the front clearance. Longer half shafts would make up for the difference in the transmission location.


Just my .02......

[rick 918-S]

yes, I think the motor can move back if you sacrifice the rear trunk. My goal was to try and maintain as much of the rear trunk as I could. I also wanted to maintain the stock type muffler location. In moving the assembly back you may want to fab a transfer case on both axle flanges to avoid the extreme angle on the axle. This could also be used to change the final drive ratio without the use of the "H" gear. Just early morning rambling..... Later

[spare time toys]

QUOTE (rick 918-S @ Jan 18 2005, 12:36 AM)

r_towle response: Larry, Post that picture of the tape measure on the head rest. I can't find the copy on my computer. Larry is tall also. I think I recall something like this. Rock the seat forward then move it back until the headrest is about 4 3/4 " from the base of the back glass. If you fit you can do this conversion. If you need your seat against the backpad forget it. There is a couple of engineers in CA. that moved the motor back so far they needed to lengthen the trailing arms 5" I never like the look personally. I thought the car looked like a tow truck without the boom. I have a photo on another computer.

I guess in one of my fits of email thinning I must have removed it. But it was like 4.5 inches. Also there was the tip about putting a tape from door to door and bring the seat back with out busting the tape and that is just abour where it should be.

[r_towle]

I am not really interested in moving it so far back that the angle of the axles becomes to extreme, nor do I want to make some sort of transfer cases.

So...What can come off the front of the motor.

I know that the timing belts must stay.

Looks like the water pump could be replaced with electric.

What is on the bottom? run by a fan belt???
Is that the alternator? I cant make it out in any of the pics..

Just trying for a few more inches, looks like I could get two or three inches off the front with a little relocation engineering...
I just might do this after all..

Rich

[spare time toys]

QUOTE (r_towle @ Jan 18 2005, 08:44 PM)

I am not really interested in moving it so far back that the angle of the axles becomes to extreme, nor do I want to make some sort of transfer cases. So...What can come off the front of the motor. I know that the timing belts must stay. Looks like the water pump could be replaced with electric. What is on the bottom? run by a fan belt??? Is that the alternator? I cant make it out in any of the pics.. Just trying for a few more inches, looks like I could get two or three inches off the front with a little relocation engineering... I just might do this after all.. Rich

The Alt. is on the bottom and runs with a wide belt but it does not stick out that much. The water pump runs off the cam belt and you would not gain by going remote because of the way it is in the block The cam drives are the critical length because the way the firewall tilts back.

[r_towle]

ok...
Im shopping for a motor.
If theres one out west and one in the middle, we need one on the east coast too.

Which motor would be best?

I have seen on demicks site that he has developed individual throttle bodies for the 928 engine....that would look sweet, even better that the cool snake of a manifold it has now...

Hey, If I do this, we all need to go to the next shark festival and crash the party (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif)

Rich

[jim912928]

Another sharkster! YES!!!!!!

Well, the only good thing to know about 928 engines is all 32V engines are interference engines...lose that belt and it get's real expensive. Euro 16V engines are also interference engines. 16V US spec engines are non-interference...belt breaks and you are ok.

In the 16V non-interference engines i'd get an 83-84 4.7L with L-jet. Most HP in the 16V US spec range, easy fuel injection setup.

[rick 918-S]

Just got back into town from a 3 hr white knuckle ride up I35. Here's the photo of the head rest. I moved the transaxle back 1.5" I don't know how much more you can move it before the axles are compermised. I removed everything off the front of the motor I could. I have one pulley on the balancer. You can't remove the cam gears. They are the furthest point forward.

[Joe Ricard]

QUOTE (jim912928 @ Jan 18 2005, 07:16 PM)

Another sharkster! YES!!!!!! Well, the only good thing to know about 928 engines is all 32V engines are interference engines...lose that belt and it get's real expensive. Euro 16V engines are also interference engines. 16V US spec engines are non-interference...belt breaks and you are ok. In the 16V non-interference engines i'd get an 83-84 4.7L with L-jet. Most HP in the 16V US spec range, easy fuel injection setup.

Everyone wants a Euro motor. However there are guys out there that really race these cars that have made some hybrd engines. Like taking a block from the 4 valve engines 5.0L and putting 16V heads on it from a 4.7L engine and getting ahold of the 84 - 85 Euro intake and throttle body and EFI stuff.

[SirAndy]

QUOTE (spare time toys @ Dec 4 2004, 07:25 AM)

Here is the movie the name comes from.

here's a slightly larger version of the poster. too bad i don't have the original ...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif) Andy

[jwalters]

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) Dude--you are soo good with this--just do like the fiero guys putting lambo bodies on their cars--S-T-R-E-T-C-H-it---you would have even more of a one off--and think about what the extra wheelbase would do for straight line stability!!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

It would not be difficult for you--just graft in new long sections between the jack point and the upturn--its a straight shot, have engmann lengthen his indoor strengtheners and VOILA--stretched!!! All the clearance you would need!!

Just trying to get you to do it is all!!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)

[spare time toys]

While Rick is up working in the cold I am down here with the Dog House doors wide open. This is what I got into today. I pulled more stuff off to get ready to take the heads off so I can get them over to the shop and get the exhaust studs replaced.

[spare time toys]

Some of the 928 guys said to watch out for the pucks when you take the cam tower off. Well only one fell out but they are those round things that go over the valve spring and have a spot in the center that matches the valve tip.