#770 (912E) Project thread *Tangerine Cooling System installed!) Options

[Bulldog9]

finished product

[euro911]

I think your testing the garage isn't a true test of your theory due to the ambient temperatures and the volume air space in the garage. By recirculating heated air in the passenger compartment of your car (instead of introducing outside air), I think you'll achieve higher temperatures.

[Dave_Darling]

... But it's still going to be difficult to get meaningful heat out of any 12V system ... 100 watts (a light bulb!) is about 8 amps, which is a fair bit. To get 1200 watts, which is a decent amount of heat, you need 100 amps. That's a HUGE amount of current... In fact, that's somewhat more than the stock alternator is capable of producing.

--DD

[Bulldog9]

Took advantage of an extra day off to finish up some my suspension parts.

- Camber Adjustment Plates & upper shock washer) (eastwood rust encapsulator topped with VT engine universal gold)
- Camber Plate, Front Bushing mount, Cross member Bolt Heads (eastwood rust encapsulator)
- Front sway bar bushing mounts (eastwood rust encapsulator topped with eastwood chassis black)
- Torsion bar adjusters (eastwood rust encapsulator topped with VT engine universal gold)
- Star lock washers for balljoints (eastwood rust encapsulator topped with VT engine universal silver)
- Caps for torsion bar tube in control arms. (rust encapsulator, will tap into pace after arms are installed and torsion bars inserted.)

After they sit overnight, I will cure in oven at 200 for an hour tomorrow. This is essential to finish the curing of the VHT paint. Of course I have NO idea if this eastwood rust encapsulator stuff will work, but at least I tried.....

Still have more cleaning of: front sway bar, strut housings and control arms then they get painted.

Also cleaned and started prepping for paint:
- Gravel Tray - (rust encapsulator and antichip guard chassis black paint)
- Axle shafts - (eastwood rust encapsulator topped with VT engine universal silver)
- Engine mount cross bar. (eastwood rust encapsulator topped with VT engine universal silver)
- Transmission Mount and weight. (rust encapsulator and antichip guard chassis black paint)
- Gas Tank - (rust encapsulator and antichip guard chassis black paint)

**That ends the terrible terrible task of cleaning the rust and dirt and grime of 30+ years and just sitting and rotting parts..... I may have a few odd and ends, but no more piles of rusty parts and pieces..... at least I think........ lol

I still have a pile of stuff to paint that was stripped and cleaned some time ago, chiefly:
- Engine Tins (rust treated then VHT gloss blach high heat case paint)
- Fan housing (Satin black)
- Engine Case (VHT silver after assembly)
- Cyls (light coat of VHT flat black)

It is amazing how rusted and crappy it all was. Layers and layers, and I'm glad I am doing this, as left unattended, these parts would have failed due to rust. Hopefully, the treatments and top coat of fresh paint will extend life for a few more years, and allow me to replace over time. I dont mind the extra time to R&R these parts, as I would have to buy them otherwise...... no think you.

I also installed the shift knob on the shifter, installed and then uninstalled the blue clutch helper spring (?? how this works makes no sense) finished cleaning the transmission body itself, and reinstalled the clutch throwout bearing arm, shaft and seals. I used the synthetic brake caliper grease for this. Ist great stuff, easy on plastics, repels/resists water, Doesnt ever melt out or run, and is stable in the coldest of temps.

[Bulldog9]

I think your testing the garage isn't a true test of your theory due to the ambient temperatures and the volume air space in the garage. By recirculating heated air in the passenger compartment of your car (instead of introducing outside air), I think you'll achieve higher temperatures.

That may help too, but the biggest problem is too much airflow through the element overpowers the element's heat capacity. I went too high on CFM's. I played around with airflow,and when I lowered the airspeed, limited flow, I was able to get the temp rise up to 20. I have some further refinements, and will likely add a potentiometer to the fans to control speed. lower CFM will allow better heat absorbtion. I wsa going to get normal 40CMF fans but was concerned they wouldnt flow enough air. These fans put out over 125CFM's. They are super quiet and powerful. The air comes out of the housing almost blow dryer speed.

I am eliminating the air exchangers (well dr rusto did that) Though I dont expect to get real hot heat, I'm hoping for some warm, and to have strong airflow for defogging etc. These boxes will be mounted in the footwell areas on both sides. I will remove the stock heat tube (from rocker panel to ducting under dash) and insert these with some other tubing. If by chance one day I am able to find heat ex changers, or another viable alternative, I can pull these out, reinstall the factory blower and install exchangers.

Phase 2 of the build will include new upholstery/seats and electric elements in front seats. Will NOT be a winter car anyway, mostly spring-fall.

[Bulldog9]

Had some free time so I figured I'd add all my latest purchases to my excel spreadsheet and was shocked at the list..... 3 years of parts hording, is nice to be assembling! Am painting the strut housings and front control arms as I type this. Good Lord, I had no idea.............. But as I look over the list I am happy with my purchases and prices I paid. Still have some things to get, particularly the interior and cosmetic/body, but it looks like the mechanical part is almost finished. Now that the cleaning and stripping is complete, it is time to build.

[Bulldog9]

Front struts painted & inserts assembled. The Paint was much harder to work with than the Eastwood and VHT I've been using, took 8 hours to be tack free. Treated the rusty areas, then a self etching primer then the topcoat of the Rustoleum Farm equipment paint. Gets good reviews we will see. I know they aren't Bilstein struts, but I had to paint the housings so why not.

I cleaned out the inside of the housing real well, and dabbed a little bit of grease on the insert to help with removal (if I ever do that) as well as to help with possible rattles. The cap diddnt screw down to the top of the housing (1-2 threads showing) but I diddnt try that hard. Will re-tighten before mounting in car.

Also did a quick fit test with the upper mounts looks like the US Spec big fat washer will not be used.

[Bulldog9]

Finished the control arms today, hard to believe they once looked like this.
Second Pic is after I wire brushed and cleaned
Third & fourth pic is after I JB Welded the SS sleeves for the Rebel Racing CA bushings. Very tight tolerances, and very smooth movement. Bushings on the control arms. All that is left or the front suspension is to R&R the sway bar & gravel tray.

[Bulldog9]

Third & fourth pic is after I JB Welded the SS sleeves for the Rebel Racing CA bushings. Very tight tolerances, and very smooth movement. Bushings on the control arms. All that is left or the front suspension is to R&R the sway bar & gravel tray.

[type47]

There's a fellow on dorkiphus.net who just bought a 912E from CA and posted about it. He's from Gaithersburg, MD and his user name is DrBellPepper. You two need to connect ...

[Maltese Falcon]

OK, I'm not above begging...............

Anyone have the alternator rear plate with cooling duct? I've looked without success, and cant buy one aftermarket. The 912E had the duct built into the alternator casing itself, whee the 914/bus had a separate backplate. I went for the bus alternator for the upgrade to 75Amps over the 55 stock.

If none turn up, hopefully will find one at Hershey. If that fails, I will send mine out to be rebuilt.

Thanks!

Steve, check into the 924 alternator...I think it had an air guide plate attached to the back of the alternator. The 912e will be a sought after Porsche, especially retaining all stock equipment. Low production quantity, only built for the U.S. market , and I've been watching prices creeping up.
We built just about all of the 912e shorty Thermal headers for those cars in the day, sold under the brand names; Automotion, Eurasian Automotive, PB Tweeks, Auto Atlanta, AutoGear . Our headers were
a great upgrade considering the crude oe design of Thermal reactors. Porsche even
put an oil drip channel on top of the reactors...to guide the dripping v/c gasket oil off of
the reactors ! We still keep a few n/o/s reactor headers in stock.
Excellent restoration btw !
Marty

[Bulldog9]

Thanks Marty, will check it out.

I eliminated the thermal reactors, replaced with the Bursch pipes don't need them and I cant imagine how the car ran with them the clearances are so small. You wouldn't happen to have any heater boxes would you?

OK, I'm not above begging...............

Anyone have the alternator rear plate with cooling duct? I've looked without success, and cant buy one aftermarket. The 912E had the duct built into the alternator casing itself, whee the 914/bus had a separate backplate. I went for the bus alternator for the upgrade to 75Amps over the 55 stock.

If none turn up, hopefully will find one at Hershey. If that fails, I will send mine out to be rebuilt.

Thanks!

Steve, check into the 924 alternator...I think it had an air guide plate attached to the back of the alternator. The 912e will be a sought after Porsche, especially retaining all stock equipment. Low production quantity, only built for the U.S. market , and I've been watching prices creeping up.
We built just about all of the 912e shorty Thermal headers for those cars in the day, sold under the brand names; Automotion, Eurasian Automotive, PB Tweeks, Auto Atlanta, AutoGear . Our headers were
a great upgrade considering the crude oe design of Thermal reactors. Porsche even
put an oil drip channel on top of the reactors...to guide the dripping v/c gasket oil off of
the reactors ! We still keep a few n/o/s reactor headers in stock.
Excellent restoration btw !
Marty

[Maltese Falcon]

Sorry Steve, no HBs in my stock. One of my 912e customers is in the process of rebuilding his perforated HBs...then sending to our ceramic contractor.
He had a hard time finding his, even in bad shape.
Marty

[Jake Raby]

A customer of mine has a very solid set of 912E HX to sell.. I'll see if he still has them.

[r_towle]

OK, I'm not above begging...............

Anyone have the alternator rear plate with cooling duct? I've looked without success, and cant buy one aftermarket. The 912E had the duct built into the alternator casing itself, whee the 914/bus had a separate backplate. I went for the bus alternator for the upgrade to 75Amps over the 55 stock.

If none turn up, hopefully will find one at Hershey. If that fails, I will send mine out to be rebuilt.

Thanks!

Steve, check into the 924 alternator...I think it had an air guide plate attached to the back of the alternator. The 912e will be a sought after Porsche, especially retaining all stock equipment. Low production quantity, only built for the U.S. market , and I've been watching prices creeping up.
We built just about all of the 912e shorty Thermal headers for those cars in the day, sold under the brand names; Automotion, Eurasian Automotive, PB Tweeks, Auto Atlanta, AutoGear . Our headers were
a great upgrade considering the crude oe design of Thermal reactors. Porsche even
put an oil drip channel on top of the reactors...to guide the dripping v/c gasket oil off of
the reactors ! We still keep a few n/o/s reactor headers in stock.
Excellent restoration btw !
Marty

If you get a chance and it's not a pita, I would love to see some detailed pics of a thermal reactor for a type 4 motor.

Does it loop back the gases somehow to reburn things?

[Bulldog9]

If you get a chance and it's not a pita, I would love to see some detailed pics of a thermal reactor for a type 4 motor.

Does it loop back the gases somehow to reburn things?

No, its basically a catalytic converter. Here are a few pics. The Bursch Pipes are a straight pass the same basic size as the exhaust port and header pipes. The T/R's have an inner housing/tube in the center that the cut clearance to about 1/4 inch

[Mikey914]

These cars are better off without the thermal reactors. Mine passes DEQ without. They store a lot of heat that bakes the oil after the engine is shut down. The concept works while the car has air flowing, but not so much after shut down.
Save a pair for the CW that may buy it, but if you plan to drive it no need for these.

[AE354803]

These cars are better off without the thermal reactors. Mine passes DEQ without. They store a lot of heat that bakes the oil after the engine is shut down. The concept works while the car has air flowing, but not so much after shut down.
Save a pair for the CW that may buy it, but if you plan to drive it no need for these.

I have a type IV in the back of a 67 912, the PO used VW 412 headers that required very little modification to the heat exchangers to have working heat, a bursch exhaust (IIRC) was modified to fit up, sounds very nice

See post #132 in link below

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?s=&...t&p=1896093

Andy

[Bulldog9]

Slow but steady progress, just finished the engine mount bar, gravel tray, sway bar, axle shafts. All waiting to be put back on the car. Good news as well, I thought I was missing one CV joint circlip, but when I dug them out, I had all 4. I thought I had destroyed one getting it apart, but in retrospect that was one of the piston circlips. Starting on the engine tins next, and have the fan housing out for a good cleaning.

Hopefully will finish prepping the chassis of the car to recieve all the newly reconditioned parts.

[Bulldog9]

Well, progress slowed for a bit, finally refinished the spring plates and prepped for the Rebel Racing Bushings. I just need to finish cleaning the front hubs, will likely repaint, but not sure, and then it is time to start putting it back on the chassis! Hopefully will get at ti next week. I have a little cleanup to do on the rear chassis/underbody still, but now I have completed the suspension tear off rebuild/restore and reassembly. Spreading the parts purchases and bargain hunted over TWO years!

Bear with me as I make my list of what I have/plan to do.

FRONT SUSPENSION
- Refreshed upper camber plates and Rebel Racing poly strut mounts
- Refreshed/repainted strut housings with SACHS inserts, all new OEM upper and lower small hardware
- New Ball joints on refreshed/repainted front control arms with Rebel Racing Bushings
- Repainted (surface rust) torsion bars, height adjusters, torsion bar seals
- Turbo Tie rods and steering rack spacer, regreased steering rack and refreshed/painted crossmember
- Refreshed/repainted gravel tray and gravel tray seal
- Refreshed/repainted front sway bar and stock rubber bushings

REAR SUSPENSION
- Refreshed/repainted spring plates w/ Rebel Racing Bushings
- New SACHS rear shocks
- Degrease rear control arms
- Treat rust/paint chassis and undercarriage

BRAKES F&R - upgrade to 76 911 running gear
- New HD Master CYL
- New Zimmerman Vented Rotors F&R
- Rebuilt ATE calipers F&R
- New rubber & hard lines
- New OEM Pads & hardware kits
- Repainted/refreshed brake dust shield

MISC
- NOS/OEM Fag wheel bearings seals and races
- Lucas HD wheel bearing grease
- Teflon fitting grease
- Cable luber for Ebrake cables