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> #770 (912E) Project thread *Tangerine Cooling System installed!)
Jonathan Livesay
post Aug 29 2013, 05:09 PM
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QUOTE(injunmort @ Aug 23 2013, 07:03 PM) *

not to be a douche but butdo you guys care about my 1970 911 resto that I haven't started yet?


I wouldn't mind if you wanted to give it to me, if that is what you are asking. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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euro911
post Aug 29 2013, 07:13 PM
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QUOTE(Steve Pratel @ Aug 29 2013, 03:55 PM) *
Thanks for the welcome guys, I will definitely be checking in here for some help as I build the motor. I took the flywheel to a second shop they said the flywheel was fine, so they are going to clean and do a light resurface.

Here is a question, my cooling fan is pitted and dirty, what is the best way to restore? I'd like to powder coat, but am a bit concerned about the cleaning and effecting the balance of the fan.

SHOULD start the assembly of the long block after labor day weekend.
The fan and pulley were balanced at the factory, so be mindful when you take it apart - make a mark on the fan that lines up with the small weight embedded in the fold on the pulley.

Blast away and paint or powder-coat the pulley as desired. Some folks paint the fan too.

Repaint your timing marks (red or white) and carry the timing marks all the way to the other side of the fan so it's easier to see from any angle.
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Bulldog9
post Sep 3 2013, 08:58 PM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Aug 29 2013, 09:13 PM) *

QUOTE(Steve Pratel @ Aug 29 2013, 03:55 PM) *
Thanks for the welcome guys, I will definitely be checking in here for some help as I build the motor. I took the flywheel to a second shop they said the flywheel was fine, so they are going to clean and do a light resurface.

Here is a question, my cooling fan is pitted and dirty, what is the best way to restore? I'd like to powder coat, but am a bit concerned about the cleaning and effecting the balance of the fan.

SHOULD start the assembly of the long block after labor day weekend.
The fan and pulley were balanced at the factory, so be mindful when you take it apart - make a mark on the fan that lines up with the small weight embedded in the fold on the pulley.

Blast away and paint or powder-coat the pulley as desired. Some folks paint the fan too.

Repaint your timing marks (red or white) and carry the timing marks all the way to the other side of the fan so it's easier to see from any angle.


Thanks Mark, yes the plan is to paint both sides, and to make fresh/clear timing marks on fan. I will probably soda blast the fan then paint in light coats.
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euro911
post Sep 5 2013, 04:41 PM
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Another neat trick is to drill a 1/2" hole in the rear engine tin at the flywheel. Paint the factory TDC gouge with a nice bright color and paint another (wider one) 180 degrees out for BDC.

This comes in handy for ignition timing when topside and the marks on the flywheel also help when down below, adjusting the valves (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)
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Bulldog9
post Nov 11 2013, 07:05 PM
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Am looking at a couple fuel pumps for my build.

Is a 2056 with Weber 40's. Looking at these two pumps as a start, any experience with these? Obviously looking for reliability.

Also, do I need to run a regulator and fuel return back to the tank with this low a pressure? I've come across this http://www.amazon.com/FRAM-G3583-In-Line-F...r/dp/B000AMW0F6 as a possible alternative to a pressure regulator, would be an easy fit, plan to keep stock filter and plumbing and put this in beween the stock filter and carbs, then plumb in the return. But is it needed? Good insrurance? Here are the pumps. a CB, Mer Gasket and Carter.

http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetail...roductCode=3193

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mrg-42s/overview/

http://www.jegs.com/i/Carter/180/P4070/10002/-1

Thanks!
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SirAndy
post Nov 11 2013, 08:08 PM
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QUOTE(Steve Pratel @ Nov 11 2013, 05:05 PM) *

I used the CB rotary pump on my 2056 and it worked great and was quiet ...
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)
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Kirmizi
post Nov 11 2013, 09:39 PM
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Rotary pumps, like the one from CB Performance, are also available from your local FLAPS. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
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euro911
post Nov 11 2013, 10:20 PM
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QUOTE(Steve Pratel @ Nov 11 2013, 06:05 PM) *
Am looking at a couple fuel pumps for my build.

Is a 2056 with Weber 40's. Looking at these two pumps as a start, any experience with these? Obviously looking for reliability.

Also, do I need to run a regulator and fuel return back to the tank with this low a pressure? ...

Thanks!
You shouldn't need a regulator, but having a pressure gauge handy is always a good thing. A pump for your application should be between 3.5 & 5psi typically.
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StratPlayer
post Nov 12 2013, 10:30 AM
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Clean off the fan with some brake cleaner, if your gonna have it powder coated it will need to be balanced. If rebuilding the engine, all parts that need balancing should be balanced as well.
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Bulldog9
post Nov 14 2013, 07:17 AM
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Thanks all, I decided on the CB rotary pump.

I just finished media blasting the fan, will be painting then sending crank, fan flywheel, and PP to be balanced. I weighed my piston/ring/rod assemblies and tehy are almost spot on, but will match opposing sides as close as possible.

Quick question, I have been planning on using permatez aviation sealant for my case/assembly sealent, is this still the conventional wisdom?
\
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Jeffs9146
post Nov 14 2013, 11:12 AM
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QUOTE(Steve Pratel @ Nov 14 2013, 05:17 AM) *

Thanks all, I decided on the CB rotary pump, and will likely use the Fram filter with the built in bypass as a second filter. The Jeep guys use this when running Weber IDF's with great results.

I just finished media blasting the fan, will be painting then sending crank, fan flywheel, and PP to be balanced. I weighed my piston/ring/rod assemblies and tehy are almost spot on, but will match opposing sides as close as possible.

Quick question, I have been planning on using permatez aviation sealant for my case/assembly sealent, is this still the conventional wisdom?

I'm going to try to keep all my questions and posts on the car in this thread, would like to rename it if possible, to #770 Build Project (my 912E is #770 of about 2000). Moderators???


You can change the title yourself by going to your first post while loged in and click on edit, then full edit and go to the top of the new screen and change your title!
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JoeSharp
post Nov 14 2013, 11:35 AM
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QUOTE(injunmort @ Aug 23 2013, 07:03 PM) *

not to be a douche but butdo you guys care about my 1970 911 resto that I haven't started yet?


Some people will be douche bags and say no but that is not what all of us would say. I like restorations in just about any car. There has even been some pics a Lotus done here.
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Bulldog9
post Nov 14 2013, 12:33 PM
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thanks!


QUOTE(Jeffs9146 @ Nov 14 2013, 12:12 PM) *

QUOTE(Steve Pratel @ Nov 14 2013, 05:17 AM) *

Thanks all, I decided on the CB rotary pump, and will likely use the Fram filter with the built in bypass as a second filter. The Jeep guys use this when running Weber IDF's with great results.

I just finished media blasting the fan, will be painting then sending crank, fan flywheel, and PP to be balanced. I weighed my piston/ring/rod assemblies and tehy are almost spot on, but will match opposing sides as close as possible.

Quick question, I have been planning on using permatez aviation sealant for my case/assembly sealent, is this still the conventional wisdom?

I'm going to try to keep all my questions and posts on the car in this thread, would like to rename it if possible, to #770 Build Project (my 912E is #770 of about 2000). Moderators???


You can change the title yourself by going to your first post while loged in and click on edit, then full edit and go to the top of the new screen and change your title!

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JoeSharp
post Nov 14 2013, 12:42 PM
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So I'm cooking today to get ready for dinner tonight. MMMM cookies. Going to start the smoker at about 2:30 for the smoked chicken tacos. So if your in the area stop by for dinner at about 6:00 pm. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/jsharp.gif)
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euro911
post Nov 14 2013, 01:15 PM
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QUOTE(Steve Pratel @ Nov 14 2013, 06:17 AM) *

Thanks all, I decided on the CB rotary pump, and will likely use the Fram filter with the built in bypass as a second filter. The Jeep guys use this when running Weber IDF's with great results. ...
I don't know about Fram's fuel filters, but I don't use their oil filters. Why?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XRRgw4B7R-I



I just finished media blasting the fan, will be painting then sending crank, fan flywheel, and PP to be balanced. I weighed my piston/ring/rod assemblies and tehy are almost spot on, but will match opposing sides as close as possible.
Having the entire rotating assembly balanced with the flywheel, fan and clutch assembly bolted on is essential to longevity, you're doing it right (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

Quick question, I have been planning on using permatez aviation sealant for my case/assembly sealent, is this still the conventional wisdom?
A light coating is good

I'm going to try to keep all my questions and posts on the car in this thread, would like to rename it if possible, to #770 Build Project (my 912E is #770 of about 2000). Moderators???
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Bulldog9
post Nov 19 2013, 07:20 PM
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And the fan is finished being blasted and painted. The pulley metal was very rusty so I removed the rust, and between wirebrush, sandpaper and a grinding stone on my dremel and smoothed it down to metal as good as possible, then used Eastwood Rust encapsulator once that cured for a couple days, I topcoated with PJ1 case paint. After curing for 2 days I then baked it at 200 for an hour to fully cure and complete the ceramic hardening. Then painted fan housing with silver and baked. Tomorrow I hope to pick up my crankshaft remount the front bearings and gears and get back to the mechanic for balancing with all the parts.Attached Image


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euro911
post Nov 19 2013, 08:14 PM
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Nice. I can already tell how the rest of the motor is gonna look (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)
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PanelBilly
post Nov 19 2013, 08:42 PM
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Since you changed your title, I guess my "WEcome" comment doesn't work anymore now it's just welcome.

I was looking at a restored 912 this summer at the XXX event in Seattle. Guy wanted $18,000 or something close to that. I thought it was a steal at that price. Watch out how much you spend if you're thinking of selling the car any time soon.
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Bulldog9
post Nov 20 2013, 08:03 AM
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QUOTE(PanelBilly @ Nov 19 2013, 09:42 PM) *

Since you changed your title, I guess my "WEcome" comment doesn't work anymore now it's just welcome.

I was looking at a restored 912 this summer at the XXX event in Seattle. Guy wanted $18,000 or something close to that. I thought it was a steal at that price. Watch out how much you spend if you're thinking of selling the car any time soon.


NOt SUre WHat you mean about the welcome ;-)

Yeah, I am very aware of the cost of this have been bargain hunting for parts, buying slowly over the last 2 years. Also watching for sales & great prices, recently scored new zimmerman front vented rotors for $55 a piece and rear vented rotors for $27. Crazy good deal. The downside is I am a parts whore and my wife is getting mad as boxes arrive daily ;-)

The entry price was virtually nothing, and paint will be the real killer, likely more than the full mechanical restore. I don't plan to sell the car, I have a bad habit of keeping things when I like them. After all the BS&T put into the car I'll be driving it for quite a while. My goal is a 3 season driver not a garage queen. I'm also doing 99% of the work myself with the exception of some machine work, balancing and the paint/body work. I did strip the car down to bare metal then acid etch and zinc coat. Will sit over the winter. In the spring I will redo the acid etching and zinc coating and prime with a 2 part epoxy primer, then send to a body shop for bodywork and paint. That is the BIG $$$ still looking for the right shop/person.

I am basically doing a complete gut & rebuild, salvaging what I can (which is a lot) and upgrading where I am replacing. i.e. Most of the work is refreshing, but some is total replacement.

- new 96MM pistons & cyls
- performance cam for carbs with solid lifters & swivel head adjusters
- Thermo reactors replaces with bursch bypass pipes
- Heads rebuilt and improved by Len Hoffman
- 911 style rotors & calipers & M/C
- 911 Turbo tierod and rack spacer kit
- Upgraded gauges - adding 911 dual
- Interior door panels and center console from 86 SC
- heater modifications and addition of fresh air fan circuit in place of clock & fuel gauge.

I'm having fun and have made some great connections, two of them being Jorge from European motorworks, and Len from Hoffman. Both of these guys are masters and very helpful, professional and have been great to work with. HIGHLY recommend either of them.

I've been wrenching on my own stuff since I was in 8th grade, and have rebuilt/restored half a dozen cars and motorcycles, but this is my first Porsche/VW other than a short stint with a GTI back in the early 80's which ended horribly in an Audi...... So I am learning as I go, and appreciate all the insight and help. I've asked a million dumb questions and will ask more.

Bottom line is if I spend $7500 on paint, I will be under $17000 for the total rebuild, that is everything including new tires, stereo, 100% complete. Plus I have a bunch of stuff to sell from this and other projects I have gathered piles of parts. I'm talking to one forum member about a few parts right now once we settle that I will offer the balance to the forums.
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FourBlades
post Nov 20 2013, 09:19 AM
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Great project!

Seems like you have a good plan.

John
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