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> #770 (912E) Project thread *Tangerine Cooling System installed!)
anderssj
post Nov 20 2013, 06:31 PM
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QUOTE(Steve Pratel @ Aug 23 2013, 02:17 PM) *

QUOTE(dale73914 @ Aug 23 2013, 12:39 AM) *

Why someone would leave this to rot is beyond me......

I would love one of these (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Goodluck with the build


The truth is ugly.............. he parked for the winter, and in the spring instead of putting back on the road, he started driving a.... Miata............ choke....... Really nice guy, older what is worse is what this was sandwiched between.


Hi Steve,

Very nice project! Wow, lots of VA plates in that earlier post . . . where are you? I'm in Yorktown if you need a hand. There are a few of us in the eastern part of the state . . . .
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Al Meredith
post Nov 20 2013, 08:21 PM
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Steve, I have had 3 912Es , now own #265. I built the2056 myself with all RABY parts. The torque is wonderfull. Check out Jake Raby,s website and you can find out about the one he has . I think it gets 36MPG at 80 MPH on an after market FI. I think it is : www.aircooledtechnology.com Let me know if you have any questions, AL
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gothspeed
post Nov 20 2013, 09:28 PM
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I would love a 912E .... except they still have to be smogged here ....... lookin good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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euro911
post Nov 20 2013, 11:15 PM
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Get a '74 or a '75 911 and drop a T4 in it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)
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Bulldog9
post Nov 21 2013, 09:47 AM
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SWEET! Just picked these up off ebay. NOS never used DRLA 36's with manifolds, filters and linkages, at about 1/2 a set of Weber 40's.... I'm psyched.



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Bulldog9
post Nov 21 2013, 09:48 AM
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[/quote]

Hi Steve,

Very nice project! Wow, lots of VA plates in that earlier post . . . where are you? I'm in Yorktown if you need a hand. There are a few of us in the eastern part of the state . . . .
[/quote]

I'm in Alexandria, just North of MT Vernon. Thanks for the offer!
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Bulldog9
post Nov 21 2013, 09:56 AM
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This is what I am hoping for, not looking to bracket race, but good strong midrange performance, torque, etc. I've learned much from the Raby pages, and ended up purchasing much of my engine hardware inadvertantly from the individual he purchases (or used to) them through. So I have many of the Raby improvements, with a few differences. I've corresponded with him a bit, interesting fellow... Will definately have questions as I work towards assembly of the motor. I'm really blessed to have a great local porsche mechanic, all they do is Porsche, and the guy I am dealing with has built hundreds of Type 4's and used to race his 914 which he still has in the shop. I'm doing 99% of it myself, he is balancing, and will tune/dyno the car when it is assembled.

My BIGGEST worry at this point is setting the valvetrain geometry correct, and cutting the pushrods to the right length. I have 3-4 articles on this that dont make much sense, but that is weeks away.

Thanks for the offers of help, this is a great forum.

QUOTE(Al Meredith @ Nov 20 2013, 09:21 PM) *

Steve, I have had 3 912Es , now own #265. I built the2056 myself with all RABY parts. The torque is wonderfull. Check out Jake Raby,s website and you can find out about the one he has . I think it gets 36MPG at 80 MPH on an after market FI. I think it is : www.aircooledtechnology.com Let me know if you have any questions, AL

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Bulldog9
post Nov 21 2013, 10:02 AM
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I never even heard of one untill I found this car, almost diddnt go for it at first, but the more I have read and the reality that I will have a motor with almost as much power, with much less weight, better fuel economy, and better handling, plus a rare car (**EDIT missed a 0.... ;-) about 2000 made, with who knows how many still around) and this was a no brainer. PLUS the type 4 will always be less to operate and maintain (in theory) than the more complex 6CYL, and likely more durable.

I HOPE to build this motor right and to never have to open it for at least 50K miles other than valve adjustments, tuneups, etc.... I've been tearing the car down and slowly buying parts for the last 2 years, and am now at teh point where I am reassembling and building! WHOO HOO!

SO CA doesnt have an antique car clause? In VA I can put antique/collector plates on it, and not worry about emissions, etc.


QUOTE(gothspeed @ Nov 20 2013, 10:28 PM) *

I would love a 912E .... except they still have to be smogged here ....... lookin good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Dave_Darling
post Nov 21 2013, 10:07 AM
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There were, I believe, 2100 of the 912E made. Somewhat more than 200, but still a very small number.

I remember when a younger member of the Porschephiles email list found 912E #1 and bought it. He took it to his mechanic for a general going-over or maintenance or something, and the mechanic wrecked it on a test-drive. Still makes me sad to think about....

--DD
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gothspeed
post Nov 21 2013, 12:54 PM
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QUOTE(Steve Pratel @ Nov 21 2013, 08:02 AM) *

I never even heard of one untill I found this car, almost diddnt go for it at first, but the more I have read and the reality that I will have a motor with as much power (if not more) than the 76 911S, with much less weight, better fuel economy, and better handling, plus a rare car (**EDIT missed a 0.... ;-) about 2000 made, with who knows how many still around) and this was a no brainer. PLUS the type 4 will always be less to operate and maintain (in theory) than the more complex 6CYL, and likely more durable.

I HOPE to build this motor right and to never have to open it for at least 50K miles other than valve adjustments, tuneups, etc.... I've been tearing the car down and slowly buying parts for the last 2 years, and am now at teh point where I am reassembling and building! WHOO HOO!

SO CA doesnt have an antique car clause? In VA I can put antique/collector plates on it, and not worry about emissions, etc.


QUOTE(gothspeed @ Nov 20 2013, 10:28 PM) *

I would love a 912E .... except they still have to be smogged here ....... lookin good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Not that I am aware of ..... but we did have a 30 year rolling exemption going and they stopped it at 1975 and older models ...... the 912E just missed it ..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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euro911
post Nov 21 2013, 01:00 PM
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There was legislation introduced to increase it to 1981 (IIRC), but it didn't pass (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)
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gothspeed
post Nov 21 2013, 04:39 PM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Nov 21 2013, 11:00 AM) *

There was legislation introduced to increase it to 1981 (IIRC), but it didn't pass (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

+1 oh yeah, I kinda heard about that ..... that really sucks it did not pass ... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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euro911
post Nov 21 2013, 05:34 PM
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Yeah, they need to keep up with the times and move it up to at least '85 or so ... then I wouldn't have to smog my '84 Westy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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Bulldog9
post Nov 30 2013, 07:21 PM
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Some progress, I jacked the car up and put on stands today and started disassembling the suspension and brakes.

REAR: pulled the rear brake rotor, caliper, shock, brake shield and a few other things off the rear, was going to pull the rear spring plate and control arm bushings but after pulling the spring plate and looking at the bushing, which looked almost new, no cracks, etc. and some vigorous pushing and pulling of the control arm, I decided to lube and reinstalled. Nasty nasty rotors. I noticed the rear calipers were ATE.

FRONT: Pulled the rotors, calipers, shields, hubs, front sway bar, pulled out the torsion bars, and broke the balljoint pin loose, and ran out of energy (and the wifes patience lol ;-).

Notable moments: steel brake lines are shot, fittings are fubar, need to be replaced. Front torsion bars were in relatively good shape though the rear had no grease and had rusted. The brake pads were about 90% and caliper boots dont look too bad. Havent pulled the control arms off, but looking at the bushings they dont look dried out and cracked. I need to pull the control arms due to some rust on the arms and brackets. Will R&R the whole front suspension,

Next up: Separate the ball joint and strut housing, remove control arms and struts with camber plates, remove master cyl, drop the cross member and steering rack, clean and paint all, and then R&R.


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Bulldog9
post Nov 30 2013, 07:23 PM
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and the rear


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Bulldog9
post Nov 30 2013, 07:25 PM
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..The pile of stuff. Will be dumping the rotors, and sending calipers back for cores, am upgrading to vented rotors front and rear and putting on new calipers as well as new Master cyl as well as new rubber lines, and most of the metal lines it looks like. Most looks good but the dust shields are very rusty and thin, will be interesting to see how it all works out.


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Bulldog9
post Nov 30 2013, 07:45 PM
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passenger front end parts I removed today.Attached Image
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Mikey914
post Nov 30 2013, 07:45 PM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Nov 21 2013, 11:00 AM) *

There was legislation introduced to increase it to 1981 (IIRC), but it didn't pass (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Just an fyi my 912E will pass DEQ without the air pump and thermal reactors.
Smart. move to ditch the reactors they build up heat and cook the oil after you park the car.
The pump is a pain that robs power and I can get 36 mpg at 75.

love these cars too. The motor is what the 914 should have evolved to if production was continued.
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euro911
post Nov 30 2013, 07:56 PM
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Looks like you've been a busy boy.

If the car has sat for a long time, I recommend rebuilding the calipers and install a new master cylinder, even if they 'look OK'. It's really not that expensive in the realm of things and it'll give you peace of mind (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

P.S. you can go back and EDIT your posts. Sometimes (because I'm lazy) I'll EDIT my original post(s) to add pix.
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Cap'n Krusty
post Nov 30 2013, 08:32 PM
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QUOTE(euro911 @ Sep 5 2013, 02:41 PM) *

Another neat trick is to drill a 1/2" hole in the rear engine tin at the flywheel. Paint the factory TDC gouge with a nice bright color and paint another (wider one) 180 degrees out for BDC.

This comes in handy for ignition timing when topside and the marks on the flywheel also help when down below, adjusting the valves (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)


Why would you want to look at marks on the flywheel when adjusting the valves?

The Cap'n
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