#770 (912E) Project thread *Tangerine Cooling System installed!) Options

[euro911]

Topside, TDC for timing with an adjustable timing light. Bottom side, to find TDC & BDC

[oldschool]

Get a '74 or a '75 911 and drop a T4 in it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

LOL thanks what I was thinking....

[Bulldog9]

Gents, diddnt want to start a new thread, and trying to keep some discipline

So a few weeks ago I scored a new set of Dellorto 36's. I've heard and read several different opinions on wether these are too small. I've read that Dell's flow as well as one size up Webers, and because the target IDF was 40 as opposed to 44's, I figured that the Dellortos were the 'right size'. I've also been told that the 30mm venturis will be restrictive especially with my larger cam and Hoffman Heads.

So being a 'show me' kind of guy I have been reading and researching and discovered the following:

1. The CFM of Dellorto 36 DRLA is 205.8cfm/venturi for a total of 823CFM (CB Performance)
2. Approx 208 CFM total is Needed for a 126.27952 CID (2056cc) Mildly Built Engine (Carbs Unlimited)
3. Divide 208CMF/4 and you get 52 CFM/cyl.....
4. I measured the internal venturi/housing size of the SINGLE throttle body for the stock EFI and it is 58mm at its widest, and this flows all the air for the motor.

Based on all of this looks, it like the Dell will easily meet any demand for flow........ If the projected CFM for each cyl is 52, and each venturi will flow 205CFM, this is good right? Even if the CFM number posted for the carb is for BOTH Venturi's (barrells) I am still more than double the calculated CFM required...... SO....... other than experience, What am I missing????

[Jake Raby]

For adequate performance for 5,500 RPM or below the 36s will be fine. The 36 Dell only flows 5CFM less than a 40 Weber with stock venturis.

[gothspeed]

Get a '74 or a '75 911 and drop a T4 in it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Yeah, that is a good idea. it would have to be a non sunroof model then stripped of all extra weight. However in that price range, a nice early 912 would be kinda nice too. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[Bulldog9]

OK, things have been hectic the last week, back to it today I hope. Been getting some unexpected 24hr duty shifts at work, about to head home. I owe a few guys some prices on parts, will get them boxed and est weights today. Sorry for the delays!

Then it is time to do more blasting...... I have 2 small tin sections and the large pieces, that need to be media blasted, then washed (gonna use the dishwasher (without soap) when the wife is not home ;-) Then coat with eastwood rust encapsulator and gloss PJ1 black engine case paint & bake in oven to cure. Then it is on to suspension pieces. Hopefully get the crank assembly back from the mechanic next week (why does it take so long???)

[Bulldog9]

I've been busy on #770, here is a link to the thread on the 912E page. A great fellow Porsche source of info, and as you know shares the same basic motor as the 914. Figured I'd paste the link instead of double posting, and if I want to watch the Probowl tonight I need to do those honey do's...... SWMBO is understanding, but I spent all day on the car yesterday, so... well you know how it is. lol Anyhow, her is the link. Not much that is engine related, but I believe some of the suspension and shift mechanism may be applicable or interesting. Man am I having fun.
http://www.912bbs.org/vb/showthread.php?43...te&p=304404

[type47]

... and the reality that I will have a motor with as much power (if not more) than the 76 911S,

really ...? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/11/r...rsche-911s-2-7/

states 170 hp

[Bulldog9]

... and the reality that I will have a motor with as much power (if not more) than the 76 911S,

really ...? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

http://www.thetruthaboutcars.com/2012/11/r...rsche-911s-2-7/

states 170 hp

LOL, yeah at some point, I thought the 911 motor put our around 130 hp.

[type47]

well, I know Jake does magic with typeIV motors but if it was in my car, I would like a 170 hp -6 rather than a 170 hp -4. But then I drive my cars like a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (trying to make a funny, no offensive meant to our female members)

[Bulldog9]

well, I know Jake does magic with typeIV motors but if it was in my car, I would like a 170 hp -6 rather than a 170 hp -4. But then I drive my cars like a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) (trying to make a funny, no offensive meant to our female members)

True, but this car isn't about power, and I've seen the prices of the 6cyl motors and parts...... I'm VERY happy with cost of the type 4. In fact, I could and would not be doing this project if it was in this condition and had the 6cyl. That said, as I have modeled my engine build on some of the best type 4 engines out there (mostly Raby), I think I will be completely satisfied with the power, even when I am old and drive like a girl (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

When I want speed I'll hop on my 0-60 2.8 sec.
1/4-mile 10.93 sec Motorcycle. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[Bulldog9]

R&R'd the steering rack and front cross member today, things are coming along! Here is a before & after. Details are on the main build thread. Also test fit the sachs/Boge strut inserts, fit perfectly. Will be cleaning them up over the next few days.

http://www.912bbs.org/vb/showthread.php?43...70-Update/page4

[Jake Raby]

Consider the sprung weight difference of the two engines behind the rear axle of the same car. Then things change.

170 HP is nothing for us these days with the T4, in fact most every engine we complete is north of that figure today. The exception are those that are outfitted with stock FI and kept at around 130 "safe for stock FI" HP.

Yes, I own multiples of each and can compare them all back to back any day of the week. Both have pros and cons.

[Bulldog9]

A few more projects completed. Paint is PJ1/VHT engine paint. Heat treated after it cured. Should stand up well. The brake shields were very rusty, cleaned up with wire wheel, cleaned degreased and POR15 like paint, then topcoated with 3 coats of gold engine case paint & baked in oven. Same with suspension parts.

[Bulldog9]

Decided to go silver with the shift lever. Took lever down to metal, then 4 coats of PJ1 engine case paint. Let cure then heat treated. Should stand up well. Waiting on the new shift knob with silver shift pattern, Looks great and matches the Momo Protipo Steering wheel. Dissasembled the unit, cleaned it all up, polished pivot points & reassembled.

[euro911]

Excellent (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

[Bulldog9]

Getting psyched, just ordered the rebel racing bushings..... Hopefully will finish the struts and control arms this weekend!

Of course I realized I still have a ton of stuff to R&R, including the gravel tray 1/2 shafts, front hubs and bearings, but I'm getting close to the suspension being finished! The rear is good to go. Once I get the under chassis cleaned and refreshed, I can start reinstalling it all.

[Bulldog9]

OK, I'm not above begging...............

Anyone have the alternator rear plate with cooling duct? I've looked without success, and cant buy one aftermarket. The 912E had the duct built into the alternator casing itself, whee the 914/bus had a separate backplate. I went for the bus alternator for the upgrade to 75Amps over the 55 stock.

If none turn up, hopefully will find one at Hershey. If that fails, I will send mine out to be rebuilt.

Thanks!

[barefoot]

R&R'd the steering rack and front cross member today, things are coming along! Here is a before & after. Details are on the main build thread. Also test fit the sachs/Boge strut inserts, fit perfectly. Will be cleaning them up over the next few days.

http://www.912bbs.org/vb/showthread.php?43...70-Update/page4

You don't show torsion bars or rear bushings in front A-arms, beware that worn OEM bushings sag and cause bars to rub the ID of the A-arm and create grooves and corrosion pits that may result in fracture of the bars. Replacement of the bushings is easy and should be done if you haven'r already been there.
If the torsion bars have the coating warn away be sure to polish the bars to remove any grooves or corrosion and re-coat.

[Bulldog9]

Snow day today, so I figured I'd try my electric heater box part duex.... Round 1 was ineffective as the stock rear blower was unable to push what I thought was enough air. After looking around I decided to try a larger enclosure and go for a 125CFM 4" fan...

Parts:
4" 12V brushless double ball bearing fan
4" metal electrical box & cover
3" PVC drains (x2)
4" PVC plastic box cut down to 3/4 for spacer
125W 12V heat element

I used my dremel to cut holes in the metal box and cover for the inlet and outlet. The Heat element bolts directly inside the box and air is pulled into the inlet, through the heat element through the fan and out the other end. Because the fan is 4" and the outlet is 3" I had to make a spacer to create airspace for air movement. I cut a hole in the metal plate cover for the box, slipped the drain through the hole. I drilled holes in the fan housing that lined up with the standard cover screws and sandwiched the fan and spacer between the box and cover. JB Weld over any large seams/joints, and then wrapped the whole unit in duct/foil tape.

The result? A solid 10-12 degree raise in temps.... lol. I think the issue is too much fan/air volume and thus too little temperature rise. I imagine pulling air through the tubes from the back of the car will slow the volume down, but maybe not enough. This was one of the reasons I went for a higher CFM fan. I will have plenty of time to play around with the system and will probably put in a variable speed control for the fans. Was a fun snow day project though.

Finished product. Saw a 10 degree rise in the house (70-80). Took the unit out to the garage, let the thermometer settle to 40, ran it for 5 minutes, temp output was 52. clearly not enough. More development to follow.....