making some progress on my sbc 307 V8 car, -- rear sway bar back in Options

[bulitt]

I'm thinking you will break your trans ears off if you go with a solid tube.
Heres some pics from Renegade site.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.renegadehybrids.com-13632-1381409433.1.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.renegadehybrids.com-13632-1381409433.2.jpg)

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/www.renegadehybrids.com-13632-1381409434.3.jpg)

[JRust]

I have been searching and have yet to find a pic or drawing that has this washer at bottom of trans. but I see it belongs at top of trans under normal circumstances. though I can see where putting it at bottom in this circumstance makes sense.

Your right it is on top normally. I think it will still sit on top fine with renegade's block on top. Been a while since I messed with mine. I believe the lip it leaves will work. I may have used mine on the bottom flipped to accomplish the same thing. I guess it's worth trying both. Give Steve at Renegade a call (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[jimkelly]

for engine mounts, found washers that fit perfectly at ACE : )

and I agree about concerns of breaking off trans ear. certainly would have to make sure to loosen trans mount bolts BEFORE engine mount bolts, before tilting eng/trans assy at all. though I may just leave it as it is? maybe I just need a robust lock washer on the bolt going up thru the trans ear and into the renegade block as it appears some have done.

still getting some eng/trans shifting when shifting thru gears?
and I do see my rear most trans bushing is shot.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g_p4-mUkC-I

[Chris H.]

Hijack but this exhaust setup is AWESOME



That's how I eventually want to connect mine from the muffler exits back.

[jimkelly]

good point. behind trans is where the most space available for a cross over, I agree it is a good design and over axles is nice too, all tucked up.

shorter mufflers are the key and my hugger headers are NOT a good starting point.

but skline had a nice clean set up too. a 2 in 2 out muffler.
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-1170-1284011533_thumb.jpg)

[mittelmotor]

I like the 2-in/2-out approach as well. Keeps the sound level reasonable. Note hidden dump pipe on far side for stealth (relative term here for V-8 conversions!).

[jimkelly]

well, finally got a battery today. hooked it up, and tested the starter. engine cranked over nicely (starter seems to be fully engage flywheel teeth - whew) and fuel pump ran. maybe tomorrow i'll stick the gas line into a gas can and fill the cooling system, and see if she starts. hopefully the timing is not too far off.

[jimkelly]

hooked my fuel to gas but she backfires and pops. I am sure I have my spark plug wires wrong.

is it safe to say that if the notch on the front pully is directly up, then where the rotor points is #1 ?? engine is a 307. #3932373

she sputtering and back firing but not starting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)

or is this round mark at top of flywheel the tdc mark, indicating #1?

the pulley mark when at top is not when the flywheel mark is at top and vice versa. though it think the flywheel also has a straight line mark on it too? and I think it need to be visable thru bottom of trans view port?

[wndsrfr]

hooked my fuel to gas but she backfires and pops. I am sure I have my spark plug wires wrong.

is it safe to say that if the notch on the front pully is directly up, then where the rotor points is #1 ?? engine is a 307. #3932373

Not safe to say since you may have some mixed components such as timing cover vs. harmonic balancer. Here's a good thread to help you noodle it out:

http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/198828/

Basically, get your firing order nailed first,
Then be sure you're on TDC #1 cylinder using a long phillips screwdriver through the spark plug hole & noting valves closed on that cylinder.
Note if the balancer timing mark aligns with the indicator on the timing cover.
You can then stab the dizzy to align #1 plug wire with rotor or just move wire#1 to align with whatever you have....your choice there. Then arrange the other wires in correct firing order--(note dizzy rotation direction!).
Then crank & twist dizzy by hand to fire her up.
After that works, figure out where the timing mark indicator needs to be or make a new mark on the harmonic balancer pulley...

Others may have a simpler procedure or point out what I've left out....

[jimkelly]

firing order seems to be 18436572
but finding tdc is gonna be my challenge it seems
guess I got to pull a valve cover off first,and all spark plugs
thanks

[DBCooper]

or is this round mark at top of flywheel the tdc mark, indicating #1?

Almost certainly not. That't just a balancing hole, drilled randomly wherever in the flywheel they need to get it in balance, nothing to do with TDC. You need to pull a plug and valve cover to see if there's a mark there that lines up once you know you're at TDC.

You can buy an old school timing indicator tab for a couple of bucks at any auto parts store to put on a bolt near the front pulley. Just put a paint spot on the pulley when it lines up with zero on the indicator at TDC, then afterwards you can use a light to time the car more easily. Or use a variable metered light so you don't need to access the pulley.

[jimkelly]

thanks guys, you've given me good guidance. dtf. no way can I rotate the engine by turning a wheel, too stiff. pushing the car while in gear is hell too. and the bolt holding the front pulling in place seems stripped. this is not gonna be fun : (

well, I had all plugs out and valve covers off. I "ROLLED" it forward and backwards and thought I had #1 cylinder on compression stroke, from seeing intake valve engage and then settle out and piston seemed to be at top of stroke. at first she just cranked over, so I added some fuel directly into the carb and then she4 spat out the carb and back fired thru exhaust. not much change.

looks like I need a new tool. the only problem is I don't have a smooth way to turn engine. psi and vaccum tool.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u2sA-q7_FtQ

[tooms351]

Run a wire with allegator clips from starter selenoid to hot side of battery, but just tap battery to turn engine over. Put your finger over #1 spark plug hole to determine compression stroke, good luck!!!

[DBCooper]

It looks like the number 1 wire goes up to the left front of the engine, to number one cylinder, good. But the next in order, number 8, the wire looks like it's going up to the right front of the engine, cylinder number 2, not to 8 in the rear. Your plug wires are really long, so they may be making a curve back, but it's odd. Maybe if you could just numbers on the photograph by each of the distributor cap's posts, according to what cylinder the wire's going to, it would clarify that.

[jimkelly]

all the images i found have cylinders

1-2
3-4
5-6
7-8
distributor

I really think it is ready to run, but I am f-in something up

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2460-1379702706.jpg)

holy shit - do I have them completely backwards ????????????
the frist graphic I found was correct (ABOVE), but I taped a different graphic to my car because it was less clutterd but I did not notice it had the rotation different/wrong.
I just removed the graphics with the incorrect rotation from this post.

[jimkelly]

I basically have the with my console - but will try with finger checking for pressure.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/post-2460-1381434074.jpg)

Run a wire with allegator clips from starter selenoid to hot side of battery, but just tap battery to turn engine over. Put your finger over #1 spark plug hole to determine compression stroke, good luck!!!

[jimkelly]

db I could kiss you, right on the mouth. GREAT eye, and I mean GREAT!

the graphic I had taped to my trunk was backwards rotation (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

I swapped all my wires from cc to cw and she fired right up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif) and ran.

geez - (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

1st video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vzjhXrokQQ

2nd video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_iVB2-7rW8g

[Chris H.]

db I could kiss you, right on the mouth.

Note to self, DO NOT HELP JIM WITH ANYTHING (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

Just kidding Jim, she sounds great man. It's a huge relief when it actually runs isn't it?

[jimkelly]

attached my throttle bracket and throttle cable, all looked good till I pressed the peddle, and snap. I got an email into terry cable to replace the one that is in my car.

119.5" total, 58" sheathing.

I do need need to drill one more hole in my throttle bracket and get the perfect spring.

and one of my spark plug wires is now too short to fit on any cylinder, need to get one medium length wire for #3.

and all early door, door glass, removed from my fair weather car.
"less weight, more speed"

PS: chris h , I like your avatar : )
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads/av-73.jpg)

[jimkelly]

set back. fuse box was in contact with block and started a fire. not too bad luckily.

here is a past thread on this main topic.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...=185880&hl=

having a quickly available battery quick disconnect makes more sense than ever.

better this happened with car in garage than 100 miles from home.

how do I splice these 4 RED wires together, properly?