Auxilary air regulator, proper operation |
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Auxilary air regulator, proper operation |
rgalla9146 |
Sep 23 2013, 08:31 PM
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#1
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,550 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None |
Does the AAR on a 73 2.0 ever close completely ?
Does it operate on 12V only or does it rely on engine ambient temp to operate as well ? I have a high idle after adjusting timing ( with known factory timing marks ) and checking all areas for vacuum leaks. If I cap the AAR hose the idle is normal and there is adjustment left on the idle screw. The points plate moves freely with vacuum in both directions. TIA |
dangrouche |
Sep 23 2013, 08:35 PM
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#2
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dangrouche Group: Members Posts: 550 Joined: 1-May 04 From: San Francisco Bay Area Member No.: 2,012 Region Association: None |
Does the AAR on a 73 2.0 ever close completely ? Does it operate on 12V only or does it rely on engine ambient temp to operate as well ? I have a high idle after adjusting timing ( with known factory timing marks ) and checking all areas for vacuum leaks. If I cap the AAR hose the idle is normal and there is adjustment left on the idle screw. The points plate moves freely with vacuum in both directions. TIA AAR is open when no voltage present, air flows freely. when 12 volts applied, within a few minutes, but under ten minutes, it closes off completely and no air flows. |
r_towle |
Sep 23 2013, 09:10 PM
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#3
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Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
It's a coiled up spring.
Blast a can of pb blaster into the inlet, shake it, let it dump out...keep doing it untill all the rust falls out, and dirt. You can run two wires to it for testing. Power lead is obvious, body needs to be grounded. No air should blow through when it's closed, if it does, let it cool down and clean it again....needs to be one to clean, so cold.. |
76-914 |
Sep 24 2013, 09:08 AM
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#4
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Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,495 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
Remove it and as Rich said PB it or WD40 it. Placing it in the freezer for an hour then apply 12V. Repeat until it fully opens & closes. It will operate w/o power but takes longer to seal off when engine heat is it's only source.
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worn |
Sep 24 2013, 10:21 AM
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#5
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can't remember Group: Members Posts: 3,153 Joined: 3-June 11 From: Madison, WI Member No.: 13,152 Region Association: Upper MidWest |
Does the AAR on a 73 2.0 ever close completely ? Does it operate on 12V only or does it rely on engine ambient temp to operate as well ? I have a high idle after adjusting timing ( with known factory timing marks ) and checking all areas for vacuum leaks. If I cap the AAR hose the idle is normal and there is adjustment left on the idle screw. The points plate moves freely with vacuum in both directions. TIA That is a good test. After initial start there should be vacuum at the AAR, you should be able to watch this go away within 5 minutes. The manual has an actual spec time. If the car has been running for a half hour you should feel NO vacuum. Wire attached and 12 v with the ignition on? |
rgalla9146 |
Sep 24 2013, 04:24 PM
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#6
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,550 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None |
Does the AAR on a 73 2.0 ever close completely ? Does it operate on 12V only or does it rely on engine ambient temp to operate as well ? I have a high idle after adjusting timing ( with known factory timing marks ) and checking all areas for vacuum leaks. If I cap the AAR hose the idle is normal and there is adjustment left on the idle screw. The points plate moves freely with vacuum in both directions. TIA That is a good test. After initial start there should be vacuum at the AAR, you should be able to watch this go away within 5 minutes. The manual has an actual spec time. If the car has been running for a half hour you should feel NO vacuum. Wire attached and 12 v with the ignition on? I have two in the freezer now. May find others if I look hard. Earlier I had both attached to 12V for a half hour and both were as open as a whistle. They both got pretty warm ( 140 + - ) but I could not detect a restriction going on. Sooooo, clean and tap and clean and blow through and clean again and they come back ? My fingers are crossed. |
Dave_Darling |
Sep 24 2013, 09:57 PM
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#7
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,983 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
If that fails (hopefully it won't) after several tries, you can pry the lip of the can open from around the top part. The top, valve, and spring all slide out. You may be able to use a slot-head screwdriver on the bottom of the valve to turn it, freeing it up.
--DD |
rgalla9146 |
Sep 25 2013, 10:44 AM
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#8
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,550 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None |
If that fails (hopefully it won't) after several tries, you can pry the lip of the can open from around the top part. The top, valve, and spring all slide out. You may be able to use a slot-head screwdriver on the bottom of the valve to turn it, freeing it up. --DD OK, pried it open pretty cleanly. All looks pretty simple. Removed the bi-metallic coil That shaft is #@%#&($ waaay stuck ! Just to be sure..... the pie shape piece is the fixed part right ? Break out the torch ? |
rgalla9146 |
Sep 25 2013, 10:57 AM
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#9
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,550 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None |
If that fails (hopefully it won't) after several tries, you can pry the lip of the can open from around the top part. The top, valve, and spring all slide out. You may be able to use a slot-head screwdriver on the bottom of the valve to turn it, freeing it up. --DD OK, pried it open pretty cleanly. All looks pretty simple. Removed the bi-metallic coil That shaft is #@%#&($ waaay stuck ! Just to be sure..... the pie shape piece is the fixed part right ? Break out the torch ? Never mind. It freed up. I didn't want to be too aggressive and ruin it. Thanks all..... now to see how well it works ! |
442nd914s |
Sep 25 2013, 12:23 PM
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#10
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Member Group: Members Posts: 139 Joined: 25-July 12 From: KC Suburb Member No.: 14,718 Region Association: None |
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rgalla9146 |
Sep 25 2013, 09:28 PM
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#11
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Advanced Member Group: Members Posts: 4,550 Joined: 23-November 05 From: Paramus NJ Member No.: 5,176 Region Association: None |
The provided link included a complete "how to" for AAR repairs. Have now disassembled both of mine and freed both up. I'll have time to test them tomorrow. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) Thank you for the great help. |
Dave_Darling |
Sep 27 2013, 08:20 PM
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#12
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914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,983 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
The cylinder with a slit in it is the "rotary valve".
--DD |
9fourteen14 |
Aug 23 2016, 01:21 PM
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#13
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PORSCHE LUVA Group: Members Posts: 135 Joined: 5-July 15 From: boston Member No.: 18,920 Region Association: North East States |
If that fails (hopefully it won't) after several tries, you can pry the lip of the can open from around the top part. The top, valve, and spring all slide out. You may be able to use a slot-head screwdriver on the bottom of the valve to turn it, freeing it up. --DD OK, pried it open pretty cleanly. All looks pretty simple. Removed the bi-metallic coil That shaft is #@%#&($ waaay stuck ! Just to be sure..... the pie shape piece is the fixed part right ? Break out the torch ? Never mind. It freed up. I didn't want to be too aggressive and ruin it. Thanks all..... now to see how well it works ! Wanna sell me one. I have a 74 2.0 I need one Niece 914 luva |
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