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> Out with the old and in with the Roo, Out with the 4 and in with the 6!
rhodyguy
post Sep 26 2015, 02:20 PM
Post #131


Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out.
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Nice work. You've moved along FAST! I bet you could sell radiator/shroud kits if you wanted too.
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A&P Mech
post Sep 26 2015, 02:31 PM
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QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Sep 26 2015, 02:20 PM) *

Nice work. You've moved along FAST! I bet you could sell radiator/shroud kits if you wanted too.


Thanks! I have thought about it. Maybe once I finally get to drive mine. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) It feels like I am so close but there are still a ton of small things to address. I was hoping to drive it this weekend but it appears that I am still a couple of weeks from doing that. Some things take 10 times longer then you think they should.
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A&P Mech
post Sep 26 2015, 03:32 PM
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Clutch reservoir bracket fabricated and installed.
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76-914
post Sep 26 2015, 04:17 PM
Post #134


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You got it. Mine is offset to the left.

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A&P Mech
post Sep 27 2015, 07:42 AM
Post #135


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Modified the clutch pedal with a pedal stop. I drilled and tapped the pedal arm. The pedal arm is made of some of the softest steel I have ever worked with.
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A&P Mech
post Sep 30 2015, 09:03 PM
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I finished the hydraulic clutch installation last weekend. During the bleeding process I noticed that the plate that I fabricated was flexing when the pedal was pushed through about half its travel. I made my plate out of 1/8" steel. It's what I had on hand. To remedy this situation I fabricated a stiffer bracket. I think it will put an end to the flex.
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mepstein
post Oct 4 2015, 04:38 PM
Post #137


914-6 GT in waiting
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QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Sep 30 2015, 11:03 PM) *

I finished the hydraulic clutch installation last weekend. During the bleeding process I noticed that the plate that I fabricated was flexing when the pedal was pushed through about half its travel. I made my plate out of 1/8" steel. It's what I had on hand. To remedy this situation I fabricated a stiffer bracket. I think it will put an end to the flex.

Would it make sense to weld a plate to the pedal area vs using an adaptor plate?
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A&P Mech
post Oct 4 2015, 07:09 PM
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I am not sure how that would work? The adapter plate places the master cylinder about the perfect distance from the pedal arm. The sheet metal in the area where the clutch master needs to be is not flat and it angles in towards the pedal cluster. I think it would take a bit more metal work to get it to fit. With all that being said I have not tried it, so I could be wrong.
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76-914
post Oct 5 2015, 09:35 AM
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3/16" will cure that. Mine is 1/8" and flexes but I want to see how it holds up. I've got a 3/16" plate to throw in if it ever fails. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) What, your not tossing your hat in the ring with the rest in the "Build-off thread". It's not too late. Some of those projects are a few years old. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
Guess what? When your finished you will have a new daily driver. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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A&P Mech
post Oct 6 2015, 06:53 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 5 2015, 08:35 AM) *

3/16" will cure that. Mine is 1/8" and flexes but I want to see how it holds up. I've got a 3/16" plate to throw in if it ever fails. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) What, your not tossing your hat in the ring with the rest in the "Build-off thread". It's not too late. Some of those projects are a few years old. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
Guess what? When your finished you will have a new daily driver. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


I did think about going with a thicker plate but I had the 1\8" steel strap. I am not sure how well it will work yet. I haven't had a chance to try it out.

I do wish I had entered my car in the build off because I have spent a ton of cash with mark @914rubber. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) It would be nice to have a chance to win that back. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I plan on driving my car in a few weeks. I hope that I took enough time and did things right so it will be a good daily driver.
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DBCooper
post Oct 6 2015, 07:49 PM
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14's in the 13's with ATTITUDE
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I have two 914/WRX's with Subaru transmissions, one done a long time ago, one last year. We used a Tilton pedal set in mine rather than sort out our own solution. For my son's car, done last year, we used 76-914's Honda master plate, like you've done. It works extremely well, better than the Tilton pedals. So... good choice and well done, I'm pretty sure you're gonna like it a lot.

Great project, by the way.
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76-914
post Oct 7 2015, 07:29 AM
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QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 6 2015, 05:53 PM) *

QUOTE(76-914 @ Oct 5 2015, 08:35 AM) *

3/16" will cure that. Mine is 1/8" and flexes but I want to see how it holds up. I've got a 3/16" plate to throw in if it ever fails. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) What, your not tossing your hat in the ring with the rest in the "Build-off thread". It's not too late. Some of those projects are a few years old. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
Guess what? When your finished you will have a new daily driver. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)


I did think about going with a thicker plate but I had the 1\8" steel strap. I am not sure how well it will work yet. I haven't had a chance to try it out.

I do wish I had entered my car in the build off because I have spent a ton of cash with mark @914rubber. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) It would be nice to have a chance to win that back. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

I plan on driving my car in a few weeks. I hope that I took enough time and did things right so it will be a good daily driver.

You'll most likely have some "teething pains" but easy enough stuff to work thru. I haven't driven mine in 6 weeks. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)
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914forme
post Oct 7 2015, 08:23 AM
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Times a wastin', get wrenchin'!
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QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 6 2015, 08:53 PM) *



I do wish I had entered my car in the build off because I have spent a ton of cash with mark @914rubber. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif) It would be nice to have a chance to win that back. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)



I really like the pedal stop, and the cylinder re-enforcement you did nice work.

And Mark made sure us guys that bought a ton of parts before the Challenge was conceived would not be able to reap the harvest. As it only counts for the items purchased with in the challenge. Or else I would have a few parts myself I could gain the coin back from.

Keep up the great work, enjoying the thread.
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JRust
post Oct 7 2015, 11:15 AM
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Your setup will be sweet. Only issue I have with my stinger is starting. There isn't a cold start setup. So for modern FI it doesn't feel so modern that way. Just reaching in & turning the key for instant startup. That doesn't happen for me. I am having it looked at tomorrow to see about options there. Get a fair amount of popping starting mine cold. Once up & going all is fine. Looking forward to the first drive video (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) . So quit screwing around already & finish (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)
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jimkelly
post Oct 7 2015, 03:58 PM
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besides my PM to you a minute ago. i see you have installed stainless fuel lines.
who did you buy them from?
what size? 9.5mm and 8mm.
did you need to use any reducers between them and the fuel lines on the car?
thanks
jim
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A&P Mech
post Oct 7 2015, 07:19 PM
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I purchased my SS lines from Chris @Tangerine Racing. He is a great guy. I am not sure of the size, it was whatever Chris suggested for a stock type 4 . I still had my stock 2.0l in my car when I installed them. Chris did sell me a reducer for one of the lines. Give him a call and he will hook you up.
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A&P Mech
post Oct 7 2015, 07:22 PM
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QUOTE(JRust @ Oct 7 2015, 11:15 AM) *

Your setup will be sweet. Only issue I have with my stinger is starting. There isn't a cold start setup. So for modern FI it doesn't feel so modern that way. Just reaching in & turning the key for instant startup. That doesn't happen for me. I am having it looked at tomorrow to see about options there. Get a fair amount of popping starting mine cold. Once up & going all is fine. Looking forward to the first drive video (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) . So quit screwing around already & finish (IMG:style_emoticons/default/happy11.gif)


Please keep me in the loop! I would like to know what you find out. I hope to get back to it this weekend.
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Chris H.
post Oct 7 2015, 08:44 PM
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QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 7 2015, 08:19 PM) *

I purchased my SS lines from Chris @Tangerine Racing. He is a great guy. I am not sure of the size, it was whatever Chris suggested for a stock type 4 . I still had my stock 2.0l in my car when I installed them. Chris did sell me a reducer for one of the lines. Give him a call and he will hook you up.


Not sure if this applies to all of them, but the Subaru engines I looked at were 8mm for both supply and return. This is the stock 914 size for later cars (75-76) and CFR makes it in stainless. The EG33 is 8mm for both.
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mgp4591
post Oct 7 2015, 08:49 PM
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ Oct 7 2015, 08:44 PM) *

QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Oct 7 2015, 08:19 PM) *

I purchased my SS lines from Chris @Tangerine Racing. He is a great guy. I am not sure of the size, it was whatever Chris suggested for a stock type 4 . I still had my stock 2.0l in my car when I installed them. Chris did sell me a reducer for one of the lines. Give him a call and he will hook you up.


Not sure if this applies to all of them, but the Subaru engines I looked at were 8mm for both supply and return. This is the stock 914 size for later cars (75-76) and CFR makes it in stainless. The EG33 is 8mm for both.

Chris, where did you get your lines for your EG33?
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Chris H.
post Oct 8 2015, 05:28 AM
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Tangerine Racing. I had them before I decided to do the conversion. Luckily they were the right size. 8mm supply and return, which is stock 75-76. It looks like some of the turbo Subarus need larger lines which he has as well.

SS Fuel Lines

For the soft lines I used Gates Barricade 5/16 fuel injection hose. You have to make sure it's rated for high pressure FI.

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