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> Out with the old and in with the Roo, Out with the 4 and in with the 6!
A&P Mech
post Aug 26 2016, 11:44 AM
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It was so you could see my smiling face! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) HAHA I went with the standard white lighting. I almost ordered the neon green dial faces. The wife talked me out of it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I am sure I will have a few questions. I know that I will have to figure out the oil pressure thing. My ECU doesn't use it so I am wondering if I can just install the speed hut sender in place of the OEM unit? I think the threads maybe different.
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Chris H.
post Aug 26 2016, 12:01 PM
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QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Aug 26 2016, 12:44 PM) *

It was so you could see my smiling face! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) HAHA I went with the standard white lighting. I almost ordered the neon green dial faces. The wife talked me out of it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) I am sure I will have a few questions. I know that I will have to figure out the oil pressure thing. My ECU doesn't use it so I am wondering if I can just install the speed hut sender in place of the OEM unit? I think the threads maybe different.


Oh I hear ya. You don't even want to install them they're so pretty.

Yes so I assume the Subaru senders are pretty universal. You'll find an idiot low pressure light somewhere. I think those are 1/8 BSPT threads into the engine block. The Speedhut is 1/8 NPT. You need something like this to bridge the gap.

Adapter

Just find one that clears everything. I THINK since you are running an aftermarket ECU you don't have to have the idiot list sender connected. Might want to verify that. If you want to keep both connected PM me and I will get you the part number for mine. I am running the stock ECU so I have both connected still.

EDIT: ABSOLUTELY DO NOT FORCE 1/8 NPT MALE THREADS INTO A 1/8 BSPT HOLE. I think you know this but for the benefit of all.
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A&P Mech
post Aug 26 2016, 12:08 PM
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Chris you are amazing! I really appreciate all the help! I wish you and Kent could make the RRC. It would be a ton of fun to meet you guys!

I found this on amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NWZ3TU...=A3Q5L29ROA0I31

If the speedhut gauge doesn't need the OEM sender, I will just remove it. Thoughts?
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Chris H.
post Aug 26 2016, 12:20 PM
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No problem. Plenty of people have helped me!

Yeah that looks right! It's the ECU that you need to verify does/does not require an oil pressure connection. I can tell you the Speedhut gauge doesn't need both. If you want a low pressure warning light you set that up yourself just by saying "when pressure gets to X turn the little orange light on". The question is, is the current sender hooked up to the wiring harness now and is the Stinger reading it? Does it care if you take it out? Doubt it since all it will tell you is whether the pressure is VERY low or not.

So whichever one you end up with, the critical thing is, screw that adapter in to the block VERY easily and slowly. That is brass and you are screwing it into aluminum. That way you know it fits and that it's perfectly straight.

Yeah I'm gonna get to more events someday. It would be great to meet more of you guys.
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Chris H.
post Aug 26 2016, 12:27 PM
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Wait...if you end up needing to keep the stock sender you can just find one like the one on e-bay. It has both 1/8 BSPT and 1/8 NPT female threads. I missed that. BTW the fuel gauge works with the stock sender but you have to program it manually. You have to run the tank DRY to get a perfect empty reading and then fill it full before it will read right. Other than that it's all pretty easy.
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A&P Mech
post Aug 26 2016, 12:30 PM
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I was going to ask you about that. I was thinking about pulling the fuel tank sender out to program it. I am assuming you could just move the float by hand?
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A&P Mech
post Aug 26 2016, 12:32 PM
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Also, did you remove a bunch of wiring for the stock gauge lights?
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Chris H.
post Aug 26 2016, 12:39 PM
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QUOTE(A&P Mech @ Aug 26 2016, 01:30 PM) *

I was going to ask you about that. I was thinking about pulling the fuel tank sender out to program it. I am assuming you could just move the float by hand?



Well yeah if you want to do it the EASY WAY (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) . Didn't even think of that.

And yes you only need a few connections for the lights, not...what is it...15? like the stock gauges. You can tape off or (gasp) cut the end of the harness wherever so it can be easily reattached if you want to revert back (which you won't). Also you can put the dimmer for the light faces where the stock speedo reset knob under the dash used to be (IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif) . Perfect fit. You'll see what I mean.
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914forme
post Aug 26 2016, 12:42 PM
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The sender is inside a tube,but all you have to do if it is working properly is turn it upside down. It is not hard to get into the sender though to clean it up and do a little R&R. Of course I did not learn mine was stuck until I ran out of fuel. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

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A&P Mech
post Aug 26 2016, 12:44 PM
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Sweet! Love the dimmer idea! Well it may make the 914 purist cringe but I have been cutting on this car from the start no stopping now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) So if you have a weak stomach for that sort of thing you might want to tune out for the the next update. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)
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A&P Mech
post Aug 26 2016, 12:48 PM
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QUOTE(914forme @ Aug 26 2016, 12:42 PM) *

The sender is inside a tube,but all you have to do if it is working properly is turn it upside down. It is not hard to get into the sender though to clean it up and do a little R&R. Of course I did not learn mine was stuck until I ran out of fuel. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)


Great idea. I guess that whole gravity thing was eluding me. Noted!!! for some reason my car runs out of gas when the current reserve light comes on and the gauge is reading a 1/4 tank. I will do some investigating when I have the sender out.
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76-914
post Aug 26 2016, 05:08 PM
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[quote name='Chris H.' date='Aug 26 2016, 11:01 AM' post='2390471']
I THINK since you are running an aftermarket ECU you don't have to have the idiot list sender connected. Might want to verify that. If you want to keep both connected PM me and I will get you the part number for mine. I am running the stock ECU so I have both connected still.

Wait a minute. There's an idiot list? Will you check to see if me or Elyut is on that?
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Chris H.
post Aug 26 2016, 07:17 PM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) LOL I meant light. I'm near the top of the former list (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) .
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A&P Mech
post Sep 5 2016, 05:45 PM
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I spent the entire weekend working on the car. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif) I was able to knock some big items of the "to do" list. The heated seat and the SpeedHut gauges are installed and working. I also completed the center console. My hazard lights were blowing the fuse everytime the switch was pulled to the on position. It turns out the contacts for the light bulb were shorted inside the knob. It is now sorted out and functional.

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A&P Mech
post Sep 5 2016, 05:46 PM
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A&P Mech
post Sep 5 2016, 05:48 PM
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A&P Mech
post Sep 5 2016, 06:02 PM
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The SpeedHut gauges I ordered were 4" for the quad, speedometer and a 4.5" tach. They were smaller than the OEM gauges and I didn't like the way they fit in the stock panel. So, I decided to do a little cutting (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) to achieve a better fit. I cut the back off the OEM panel to allow for a piece of aluminum to be placed behind it. After a little time on the mill "Presto" a better fit.
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mepstein
post Sep 5 2016, 06:11 PM
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Nice job!
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A&P Mech
post Sep 5 2016, 07:11 PM
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Thanks!
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matthepcat
post Sep 5 2016, 07:18 PM
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Love your center console and shifter set up. Looks great.

I had a set of those gauges on my last two cars. Love them.
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