Signal Single Orange 74 EG33 Swap, Gone but not forgotten Options

[914forme]

Got the core support all welded up.





This stuff worked like a champ. Also used some hot staples to give it a bit more support.



I also did one of these for the -6, need to look at them with the Momo wheel and see if I want to clear it or matte clear it.



Going after this look (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif)

[914forme]

Well it is just a plug to free up some cash for the build.

I have my Coldwater MT5 cable shifter setup forsake in the classifieds.

Hope I don't regret it (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[76-914]

Whatcha doing instead?

[914forme]

Kent that is an easy one as I am a sucker for great design.

So I went with Zero decibel motorsports Bell Crank Shifter for the MT5.

They manly market to the Factory Five guys for the 818s.

I really like it, nothing wrong with Ian's (Coldwater's) design, this one just struck my (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wub.gif) button.





I am hoping to shorten the shifter rod in the trans as it does not give me much clearance back there.

It only comes as the bell crank and assembly, you have to provide the cables, and shifter. Ian's stuff comes with the cables. So they are pretty much a dead nuts same cost option.

I will say Craig was very easy to work with.

We will see how it works out.

[76-914]

Looks sweet. I'm surprised you haven't sold Ian's model yet! The price is right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[914forme]

Kent im :confused:also

Just ordered cables, and the thing of it is I'll have about and extra $125 in cables alone, of course they are top notch stuff built for off shore racing boats. I will most likely use the hemi joints that came with it, but might switch out to aircraft parts if I find they get worn from road grit.


Have to get it on the road first (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[mepstein]

Looks sweet. I'm surprised you haven't sold Ian's model yet! The price is right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) and saves you so many hours vs making your own.

[914forme]

Looks sweet. I'm surprised you haven't sold Ian's model yet! The price is right. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) and saves you so many hours vs making your own.

Time is money, but money does not equal time

So I did the run down.
Ian's kit was $375 new when I purchased it, plus shipping.
Zero Decible is $300 for the linkage and rod ends (in your choose of colors) and then you have to purchase the cables. plus shipping. Cables can be what ever quality you choose. I tend to go with higher end stuff I hate doing work twice, even though I do it a lot. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) Least expensive set of marine helm control cables I could find for this application in the quality I liked was $116.00, plus shipping. So I have exceeded the cost of Ian's very fine kit. That leaves the items for the front. MR2 shifter is the one of choice, others work. MR2 shifter costs have started to climb, as the breakers have found out that they ae in demand from us 914 guys. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) We set the pulse of the economy (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif) You tend to pay for quality I get that. One advantage I see over Ian/s kit is you can pick the quality of cable, you also have a situation that looks like the geometry might be a tad bit better. We can compare Ian's to ZDM's by letting Scott try both. That would still be subjective to Scott's feelings and the amount of time he has invested in Ian's kit, but I think he actually has two cars in his shop with Ian's kit, I have the ZDM kit on mine. We will have to see.

First I have to get mine running (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

[914forme]

Wow surprised I have not been hit by the slacker thread, maybe I have and just was a slacker and did not read it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Watching Chris' great EG33 thread, I jumped off the deep end and went after a new radiator. Been looking at the Jeep Cherokee Rad, but this one seems to fit.

Well it came in on a fast boat from China or on a place with the latest shipment of Samsung Tablets.

Here is how if fits in the 914-6. Yeah I know wrong car but the 914 EG project is back in the shop somewhere buried I can't find it right now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

So this will have to do.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

It don't fit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)







Nothing that a bit of (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) can't fix. I'll just narrow down the top of the tanks to get past the head light buckets. It is only Aluminum (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

[Chris H.]

Try it angled forward at a 45 degree angle under the light buckets.

[Andyrew]

Wow surprised I have not been hit by the slacker thread, maybe I have and just was a slacker and did not read it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Watching Chris' great EG33 thread, I jumped off the deep end and went after a new radiator. Been looking at the Jeep Cherokee Rad, but this one seems to fit.

Well it came in on a fast boat from China or on a place with the latest shipment of Samsung Tablets.

Here is how if fits in the 914-6. Yeah I know wrong car but the 914 EG project is back in the shop somewhere buried I can't find it right now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

So this will have to do.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

It don't fit (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)







Nothing that a bit of (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) can't fix. I'll just narrow down the top of the tanks to get past the head light buckets. It is only Aluminum (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wacko.gif)

I was always curious if that one would fit! Its too bad its not a couple inches shorter.. If you can weld that up then WOW. I'd love to see the details on how your going to accomplish that!

If you made it a couple rows shorter you might be able to completely fit it under the headlight buckets and then have a front trunk that could fit a spare tire and stuff!

[914forme]

I was always curious if that one would fit! Its too bad its not a couple inches shorter.. If you can weld that up then WOW. I'd love to see the details on how your going to accomplish that!

If you made it a couple rows shorter you might be able to completely fit it under the headlight buckets and then have a front trunk that could fit a spare tire and stuff!

It is just crappy Aluminum I have access to a certified welder that welded aluminum tanks for a living. If I can't make the puddle move, he can.

As far as fitting under the headlight buckets, that would be very nice idea. I have thought about doing like Brant did on his race car, and moving the head lights into the turn signal buckets. But then, I had a place that would do custom Rads for UTVs but lost it. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) They where in Cincinnati. The calculations came up that you would have about the same area as the SVX RAD, with more rows. You just have to keep it back behind the back edge of the headlight bucket. You can also use a curved RAD to gain a bit of surface area.

Really want to be able to show the people what I am thinking. In reality I could draw it up, and 3D print it, and just say make it. In reality I could also print it on the 3D printer out of Aluminum or Titanium. Neat idea, but man I would literally burn through a ton of powder to do it. But it would work (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Back to buying a $55K 3D laser metal printer. Keep finding reason to purchase one of them for home shop.

[914forme]

So after Chris suggestion I ran out to the shop and flipped his idea, and I think this will work. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)



Then I did this nice color diagram.

Green is the front cover.
Blue is the transition over the top to the flat floor
Pink is the floor that opens above the spare tire well.



Nice artful picture there. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

So since I could not get the idea very clear I did this quick not to scale line drawing.



Air enters the front, goes through the radiator, down a small transition, and under the wheel board, and out the side exits I have made in the wheel wells.

All ideas are unproven at this point copy them at your own risk.

[worn]

Gotta love the colors! Good to see things back on track.

[76-914]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/icon_bump.gif) to get any updates! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[914GTSTI]

Need some help. What is the distance from the crank shaft center line to the bottom of the stock oil pan ?

Thanks

[914forme]

LOL, you think I just have these engines just sitting around. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/av-943.gif)

I will have to dig one out to get you the measurement.

From some pictures I have of other builds it is around 6 2x4 high layer on the flat side. so 6' x 1.5" = 9" from crank center to bottom of the shipping skid.

I will have to check for you if you need a more accurate measurement.

Kent,

No progress on this car, working on my father's -6 still. Dad to a turn for the worse, so I have not been working on that car for the past few months.

[914GTSTI]

No,that's ok.
Thanks

[Amenson]

Well yesterday UPS man showed up with some new goodies.

Rebel Racing adjustable spring perches.



And installed



Need a set of helper springs and separator. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Also need to lathe down the spacer again for Tangerine's Rear shock mount. The nylox section is not on the threads.

Why was this spacer needed in the first place?
Don't ask why I am wondering. Was in a less than engaging meeting and....squirrel. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cat.gif)

[914forme]

[quote name='Amenson' date='Jan 15 2019, 01:37 PM' post='2681332']
[quote name='914forme' post='2424894' date='Nov 19 2016, 03:43 PM']
Well yesterday UPS man showed up with some new goodies.

Rebel Racing adjustable spring perches.



And installed



Need a set of helper springs and separator. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

Also need to lathe down the spacer again for Tangerine's Rear shock mount. The nylox section is not on the threads.

[/quote

Why was this spacer needed in the first place?
Don't ask why I am wondering. Was in a less than engaging meeting and....squirrel. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cat.gif)
[/quote]

We have all had the less than engaging meetings

The reason is the stock spring hat has a bell shape. Which allows the hat to move on the bearing properly where as the aftermarket one does not have that feature. The spacer allows for the hat not to bind in the raised pickup point. The spacers are just made from the stock strut topper. Easy fix, and eliminates the binding, eliminating the premature wear rate on the shock creating a failure situation. Tony “Kracker” was the first person I knew who had the issue. And Chris Foley mentioned the issue to me. You know me I love to solve problems. So this was my KISS solution. Will not be an issue unless your moving the upper rear shock location and are using a different spring hat.