Okay this is the car in all its glory ugly as heck, but hey its an auto-x car. This one is from my first season of auto-x with this car.

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Heres what it looks like today. Made it even uglier

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Here is the goal, I can sketch ideas, but I can not draw at the level of others on this forum. Thank you 914 Visulizer. and my black pen. Now if I could find a good front view. And the flares are not on the car since I'm not using GT Flares.

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But you get the general idea.

History:

After looking for 6 months I found this 914 in Centerville Ohio. This was the same time Jon Lowe was looking for a tub for his 914-6GT Clone. He saw the ad, and did not even go and take a look, I did. Drug it home this is the summer of 1993. I worked on it a lot, it was in pretty good shape the hell hole was well, HELL. It looked good on initial inspection. I missed the nice 1/8 steel plate welded in for a battery tray. But thats all right it was a 74 2.0L, base model which was what I was looking for. Had sway bars from the factory, and a lot of nice parts that I would sell off over time.

Time goes by and the car changes configurations several times. I was running 2.0L in the car until I had to sell it. I had one from a parts car that did not work out so I gave up my engine. Needed the money more than a running 914. Car sat until I picked up a rusty but running 914 from Detroit for $800. I was told it was a 2.0L, it turned out to be a 74 with a 1.8L, bored out cylinders making it a short stroke 2.0L engine. That was a fun engine while it lasted.

Next change was a 2.0L I picked up off Van, as he swapped out to a -6. This engine ran me for 4 season of auto-x. Until one of the heads decided to go to the south. I then started the search for 2.0L heads, and found a set in Indy. And while I was doing that I found a 2.4L that was pulled from a car to swap a TDI engine in. I love TDIs as I drove them until just last month. But in a 914? Well We all can shut up as he finished the swap and he’s getting 60+ MPG out of the car.

Log story short. I had it in the car, and never got it fired up. I was out in the workshop one day all kinds of fired up. And my wife came out and asked what had me so torqued. And I started pointing at everything in the garage. Her response was sell it all. And I said okay. So I did, I sold every car I owned except my truck, and her Miata. And my 914.

Yet I sold everything I had for the 914 that I am not going to use in its new form.

The Plan:

Make this thing like Steve Austin. The Bionic 914.

Okay maybe not, yet who knows.

Body fix it so its a solid color and allows me to run these large meats an wheels. Wheels are off a Cayman S, 18” with 235/35 on the front and 255/40s on the rear. My car sits a little higher now that it did when it was a dedicated auto-xer. My front Tie downs have several encounters with various imperfections on its way to victory.

Flares will be added to the front fenders, and I will be raising the opening a little to clear tires at full suspension compression, and full lock.

I will be cleaning up the body lines and changing a few items to smooth it out, I have always liked a clean 914, mine will be a little cleaner with some slight tweaks to smooth it out even more. I will be using a metallic orange that is close to the current signal orange but will give it a little more pop. Trim will be blacked out as will the wheels. Badging removed. A third brake light will be added in the targa bar trim, from a Ford GT. I will be using a flashing circuit to get people to wake up. I will be adding a spoiler to the rear most likely out of clear.

Interior seats will be changed, It will be cleaned up, gauges replaced, a radio added, and maybe AC. Oh man I’m getting soft.

Motivation will be provided with by this:


Its an H33 from a Subaru SVX, that I have just picked up. Man these are great cars if they came in a 5-speed, I would be in love. The plan is drive the Subaru through the winter, and then swap the engine and other auxiliaries into the 914 once the body work is done. Power will go to the ground via a Subaru 5MT from a WRX. I have a OBX TB on order and the bolt and washer upgrades for it. MR2 Shifter and new cables and rod ends on order fro the shifter. Bunch of small items ordered.

Big decisions left to be made. Cooling I am thinking Boxster style rads on either side as I would like to ditch the pop up headlights. And I like my front trunk. Or just take the easy way out and put it in the trunk. And if I will be using a PEFI or the factory EFI. Right now, I am leaning towards PEFI, using SDS, and ITBs from a motor cycle to give it a more classic look to the engine compartment. Or I may use the stock intakes as thy do work rather well. And spend my money trying to get the exhaust ports and heads to flow better. Get more valve lift, and duration, and get the exhaust dog legs to flow better. I will be using a equal length header. That will be a challenge as I have never made one before. It will probably suck. But heres hoping I can pull that one off. I would like to get about 275 HP out of the motor in NA mode. No plans to turbo it, and I really want to maintain the torque for the auto-x corners.

Suspension: Most of that is done, I will be raising my front spindles to get more travel up front. And then getting rid of the bump steer and adding more camber up front.

Thats the plan now I need to get busy. First up figure out the front and rear flares before I pull the suspension and put this up onto a rotisserie I will be building to do this work, and then finally get to the 914-6.

I like the plan, the visualizer is nice, orange and black is a great combo on a teener.

Get to work!

This weekend I pulled the torsion bar adjuster off the drivers side front. Added my hub centric spacer, and longer wheels studs.

I had to make this tool, I could not get the dust caps off. So a piece of DOM drilled and taped to accept these three bolts. Tighten them down, to get some grip on the indent of the dust cap. Tap and rotate the hub, and finally got the caps off with out damaging them.

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Here is the final result.

Full droop off the lift.

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And Full Compression

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And yes I have issues.

Tires rub at full lock at the rears. It hits the LE spoiler on its way by, and at full compression I can only go in a straight line. I have ordered John Kelly's DVD on how to do flares. This should be a good learning experience.

The rears fair much better. As I already did flares back there, you just don't think they should support this big of tire. 255/40R18

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And heres the car on the ground.

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Much taller than it was, its still 2 inches short than my -6. But I can now get the lift under the car with out having to jack it up first or put it in the dollies.

You may want to get thinner front spacers to reduce scrub radius issues. Although it looks better with the wheel out at the lip, the handling will be dramatically changed due to the scrub radius change.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scrub_radius

LOL, they are not that big, they barely clear the struts. 1/4" in there from the strut, I can't move them in any closer. If I could I would have, its all compromises. Thats the nature of the game.

And now you also see my swaybar that needs to be modified, that hunk of Nascar metal is still heavy.

Its an H33 from a Subaru SVX, that I have just picked up. Man these are great cars if they came in a 5-speed, I would be in love. The plan is drive the Subaru through the winter, and then swap the engine and other auxiliaries into the 914 once the body work is done. Power will go to the ground via a Subaru 5MT from a WRX. I have a OBX TB on order and the bolt and washer upgrades for it. MR2 Shifter and new cables and rod ends on order fro the shifter. Bunch of small items ordered.

Please document everything - please.

You better have a whole bunch of power in that scooby motor cause it's going to take a week to accelerate out of corners with those 18" wheels!

I know y'alls hearts are in the right place, I appreciate it actually. Them wheels are HEAVY. So I know they won't spin up fast. I also know they will not be my track wheels, just not sure what will be. I'm looking for ubber light wheels in my price range, which is about 3 pennies and a dime that I found under the SVX's seat. As for the power, yeah I have that covered. Just won't say exactly how yet. Got to keep some suspense in the build.

More junk yard / Ebay parts came in today. First off lets go back to Monday night. I picked up this engine for my mock up motor. 45K when somebody stuffed their SVX. Hopefully they where all right. Im going to use it to mock up my engine mounts and cradle. And all the body pan cutting I might need todo. And possibly the headers. ITs got more damage than it looks. If the cams and heads Survived on the drivers side, I may use it, we will see. Price was right for a mock up motor though.Click to view attachment

And my trans came in. Early Turbo Trans, out of a 00 WRX. Case is not quite as strong as I would like, and the gears are not the best for lots of power. Yet the price was right cheap, I could not pass it up. We will see if I destroy it.
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All the basic parts are in for the cable shifter. Though I ordered the wrong rod ends

I thought I grabbed the 3/8" and I ordered 3/16" They might work, we will see.

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Teleflex control cables are in. 9' and 11'

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And a super clean MR2 Shifter.

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Thats the basics for the shifing system. Now comes the fun part fabrication.

Not just the heavy... It's the diameter. If you're building an autocross weapon, you want small diameter light wheels and tires. They look killer. But I am under the impression you're going to AX.

And now for the rest of the good bits. The OBX has landed.
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And I have the 12.9 replacement bolts and heat treated conical washers.Click to view attachment

And the other two items I need to finish the trans conversion are in also from Australia. Subaru Gears got these to me fast.

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Yes thats a dollar I found under the seat of my 914 That coupler is smaller than I thought it would be.

And here is the back plate, I hated paying money for it, but they did all the nice CNC work I could not resist

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Now I need to spend some time cleaning up the OBX. It requires a good going through, and inspection. Deburring and polishing will be required I am sure. Re-assemble it with the upgraded washers and bolts, and set the proper torque. Hopefully they did not strip out to many of the threads. And then I will need to spend some more time disassembling the transmission, cleaning the case halves inspecting the bearings swaping the ring and pinion over, checking the depth and mesh of the gears. Lots of work to be done to that transaxle. Thats for sure.

Hope to meet a few people Sunday at the Cincinnati Event.

I get it, just haven't found what Im looking for. The car originally ran 6.5x15s Minilites. I then went to 7x15 cookie cutters as seen in the pictures. I would like to find a set of light wheels like a Forgeline, or a centerline. Then run a set of Cnti's on them. I really need to figure this out as it could (probably will) effect my flares. Issue is the Forgelines would cost more than my entire build. And Centerlines are not made with the 5x130 bolt pattern.

Im open to suggestions, smallest diameter I can run is 15", if I could run 13s I would.

Bill Charron runs 13's and pretty much nothing touches him. Not sure what wheel they are. Minilites maybe. I like what you're thinking with the forgeline or centerline. Since you're doing so much to the transmission, maybe you could change the gearing to make up for the 'gear change' those wheels/tires give you...

Can you re-drill the centerlines? I did that to a set of Torque Thrust's back in the day. I had a machine shop countersink in off set washers. I drag raced on them with 500 hp.

Thats a great idea Rick.

Quick search found these CMS Wheels Custom backspace wheels.Since the centers are solid, should be able to have them indexed and drilled for 5x130. Like people do for rear hubs. I'm sure I would have to sign a liability waver. USA made custom back spacing, bolted or welded wheel halves your choice. for a 8" wide rim it came out to $231.

Or you can get Centerline drags from Summit for $237 in an 8.5" width, can't change the back spacing on these. Something to be said about a forged wheel though.

Why is it so hard to find wheel weights

Now to find a used set, as I have less in my tranny than these wheels would cost me.

Also I have to check my transcode, to get my ratios and final drive. If you want to say its a stock WRX US spec transaxle, you can use this site to see what different wheel and tire combinations will do for speed at a given RPM. What would be cool is to also have a system to project how long it would take you to get to a certain speed with rotational mass. I know a ton of variables to equate.

Nice build!

Looking forward to seeing it unfold.

John

Ha found wheel weights for 8.5"x15" Centerlines. According to CarCraft they run in at 12.43 pounds the center caps would add 0.24 pounds. Who runs center caps at an auto-x. Thats almost as light as a magnesium Mahle Gas Burner. At the same width they are probably very close.

Now to see if I can get a decent set of tires to cover these, and that folks makes it a wrap.

Car Craft also say this change only equates to a performance gain of 0.111 of a sec on the quarter mile. Since Auto-x is like running a series of drag races, it should make a noticeable difference.

Only got a work a little Saterday, and maybe an hour today, my heart just wasn't in it, after the rainy Cincinnati Show.

I did get items pulled from my trans, and re-installed.

Tools needed.
12mm socket
14mm socket
27mm socket
Socket Wrench, or impact wrench for disassembly
Torque wrench for assembly
Punch
Big Hammer
Big Dead Blow Hammer with a Soft Face
Couple items to pry with
Cold Chisel
Small pick
Something to clean gasket material off with.
Two items to lock the drive shafts or flanges in place. I used to pipe wrenches.
Tube of Yamahabond or Hondabond
Oil dry see next item.

First make sure all the Tranny fluid is drained out of the trans. Or else you get a slick the size of the Exon Valdez spill.

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Pull the bits and pieces not needed for the shifter. Its a roll pin, drive it out with a punch and a BFH. Watch pin fly across garage, you my want to save these pieces I'm going to modify them for the basis of my cable shifter.

It should look like this.
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Remove all the bolts holding the nose onto the tranny. Put these aside for cleanup and re-use if your cover will allow, or measure them up for some new shinny ones.

Next pick up your Dead Blow or suitable alternative, and give it a few good whacks to loosen the adhesive, and hopefully open it up enough to get a nice wide pry in there with out damaging the mating surface. Once done heres the guts you get to pull out.

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Next you pull these out. Grab ahold of both and lift they come out together. And you are left with this.

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Pieces removed

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Next up you have to get this nut off the shaft. It is a 27mm and is peened over. Mine was done in 4 spots. Some assembly line worker in Japan, did his job with vigor. Out comes the punch and BFH, and undo all his hard work. Next I took my impact wrench and locked the axles and zipped it off.

This is the first set of items you will pull, nut and 2 washers.

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Next slip the shaft sleeve off the shaft. for lack of better terminology. There will also be a stack of washers, hardened bearing surfaces, and a roller bearing. A pick is helpful here to get these all off the shaft.

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The last one gave me fits but it has to come out or else the spool will not fit correctly This picture shows its not fully seated.

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Next you will have to fiddle a little turning the shafts to get them lined up to get the spool to lock both inner and outer shafts together. And then with some luck it will drop into position.

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Next add the washer that was next to the nut on your gear stack. Thread it on, then torque it down, to ??? I forgot its in the FSM for the WRX sorry. Don't forget to lock the shafts again. Easy enough.

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Peen over the nut to lock it into place. You can use a punch, I found a cold chisel did the job with one whack per indent. Yes I followed the original assemblers lead and and did it four times.

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Next up get rid of the factory sealant left on the mating surface. I stuffed the inside with paper towels, and started to clean it up with a angled die grinder and a scotch brite pad. done. Clean up with what ever harsh chemicals you have around for that purpose.

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All that is left is seal the end with a thin bead of sealant, and place your cover on, torque down the cover. I have not gone there as I will be taking the trans apart further after cleaning up the outside.

This is the basics on how to convert to FWD transaxle for a 914 or other mid-engine car.

When you add it into the car, don't forget to add extra trans fluid to make up for the lack of central diff, and the other parts you removed.

Started working on the rotisserie. I should have bought one of the two that where for sale in the classified section. As usual I have gone overboard. The build is 99.9% of the fun.

Drilling the uprights, and the caster mounts, all part of the process.

Had to stop here as I did not have an essential item, 3/8" nuts to weld onto the caster plates. Off to Tractor Supply for supply.

Not much has happened over the last weekend. Life gets in the way. We did have a big cruise in on Friday night, shuts down the main drag of town, over 500 car came. Items of interest,

1 Lotus Exige
1 Fake Cobra
2 Nissian GTRs
1 Sunbeam Tiger
1 Sunbeam Alpine
Closest thing to a Porsche 914 a Cayman done up olive green plastidip


I have been on a quest to complete my parts list and gather items needed for the conversion. And build out my just shy of 5000 line project plan. I'm a GTDer writing this post is a project un to itself. I have mapped a lot of sub systems out, and have copious notes, drawings, and tons of Evernote clippings.

As of today, I scored my Centerlinish. 8.5x15s and 11.5 x 15s. Those rears may get cut down a little They are three piece units so ,just have to find what I am looking for and build it out. Oh they weigh in at less than 12 pounds apiece. Ugly but light in weight. Next on the list a set of slicks, and it looks like I will need a trailer again. I may just make like a tire rack for them.

I have been quietly piecing together the parts to run 930 rear CVs to the subbie transaxle. Love it when a plan comes together. Still have a few parts to get, but the hardest ones are out of the way now.

Next up figure out how I am going to cool this car. Boxster style, standard front trunk rad, vent through the hood. Brant's street car has an oil cooler vent through the hood. As does this -6 rac car.

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Or something completely different. Since I'm flaring the rear more, maybe two rads mounted mid ship, and MKVII fans sucking serious air to back it up. Unfortunately I think that would look bad. Now if I was using the AIR 935 style kit, that could work with out issue.

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Got to the AIR Bond 934, wonder what ever happened to that car?

You'll have a hard time finding a tire to run on a 15x11.5 rim unless you are going to run slicks. Im running 275/35/15 A6s on a 15x10 on the rear of my car. Street tires that wide don't exist.

Yes sir the plan is to run slicks, but thank you for the heads up.

Okay things change in the world.

Centerline-ish wheels are 8"x15s, they are light they have been welded a few times Not going to race them, just to many un-kows. Don't want to beat up the seller as he did not know, and I should have done more homework. Live and learn, no hard feelings what so ever.

So I started down the long slippery sloop of wheels again. I grabbed a set off a member here, keep my money on the board when ever possible. They are boxster 16s both 6 and 7s. Okay they are light, , and oh look at that I can get Hanooks for them cheap, thank you tire rack closeout. One set down.

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Dang it I really don't like these Kumho, had them on a Spec V once, terrible in the rain. Oh wait my 914 doesn't see rain.

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I'm too cheap to just toss these away. So off to find another set of wheels for the street. I found a set of 6 and 7x16s Fuchs. That would make a nice combo for the car also. But let me check around and see what else I can find. Craigslist, oh a set of Boxster 6 and 7x16s with caps - $250. that has got to be a miss print. Nope $250 cash, pickup. Okay done, these are super clean.

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I was a little worried about the area I was in, somewhat shady. But it all worked out. Meet a great guy, old Rally, and hill climb guy, ran Pikes Peak. Runs a little shop on the north side of Columbus, had 3 Audi Quattro 2 coupes and an Audi 200 wagon, you know the one with the 20v turbo Great set of cars to build a awesome swap. Then I saw a car I wanted to grab. 83 GTI dude your killing me. How can you have 2 cars I love, always wanted to own sitting here as a when I get around to it thing. Then the shop door went up, and I saw the third car I wanted ever since I saw the article of MSDS' 911 swap into a VW Synchro double cab. Dude really, that is a super clean Syncro. Your killing me. Okay yes I just broke a commandment, but it was a good one to break. We shot the for an hour and I headed home. There was a rusted out 914-4 chassis out front, sad really. Hate to see them rusting away.

Gathering the parts to do a 108mm rear CV swap into the 914.

Eric as usual came up with the parts I need, a set of early 911 rear 108s. Thanks man, not sure how you do it.

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Grabbed a set of Stub axles off another board member.

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Now need to order the flanges for the subbie trans. That will give the pieces I need to get axle measurements done and find the proper length sway-a-way axle.

Hopefully I get a little time this weekend to work on the car. And build my rotisserie as I should have pulled the trigger on the one in Michigan.

My how time moves

Decided to get some parts put back together: One OBX TB LSD rebuilt. So why is the price so good on these products? Because the machining sucks. So here we go

First up stock unit, as shipped. You need to remove all the bolts, they are 6mm and not held in by much force. I busted them loose in my hands, with a shorty 3/8 ratchet.

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Once all the bolts are gone, you then remove the upper case half, you will need to pry being careful of the machined surfaces.

This is what it looks like separated.

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Next up pull the first set of bevel gears and the stub axle. Set them out in order, just for sanity.

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Next up, remove the inner pieces. The stack of washers in here are one thing to keep track of, I laid the out in order just to make sure I got them back in facing correctly. ITs not hard. It looks like this in the end }{}{}{. These washers are crap, they need to be replaced.

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Next up remove the last set of gears and the other stub axle.

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And well Im done eating my breakfast so Times a wasting I better getta wrenching! I'll give over the inspection photos and what I did to fix all the issues with this unit. And re-assembly latter. Oh it is so much fun. I'll give you a hint, hours spent with thick glass and sand paper.

How did I miss this one? Did you get that donor car stripped? How do the engine seals look on the EG33?

Nope have not stripped the donor yet, I have a spare engine, that I will be using for mockup.

The seals, well they are great shape, I repaired them all over the winter, while in the SVX, Oh what a sucky job that was.

Wow. Yeah that would have been terrible. I'll take another look at the list of stuff that was of some value to sell and send it over. Mostly small stuff. You should break even.

Cool that you have a mockup engine. I learned from someone on the board (Andrew maybe?) that the 3.3 uses the stock 4 cylinder 2.2 P's and C's so you COULD stash that one away for later and collect the parts to do a turbo 3.3 with lower compression pistons, etc. That would be fun. There's also a guy in my thread supercharging one. Cut the intake right in half. Seems to know what he's doing too.

Yeah I saw the Super charger unit looked neat. Since it is for my enjoyment and auto-x enjoyment, I might do a super charger if I was to go that route. These engines are so under stressed that I think you could pull mild boast wit the current compression. You need better cams, and exhaust. The intakes are just heavy I don't think they are restrictive, though the IRIS system adds a little complexity to the system. It is just a TB plate mounted in the middle of the can.

But yes the 2.2 parts work, as far as pistons, and rods, which means you can build a pretty strong engine off older Subby Tried and true. Now if the tranny will hold together or CVs. Like my one buddy says, your building a rolling dyne, something will break.

Okay well now lets continue down the long path of making the OBX a quality unit.

First issue is when they machined the spool they drilled the last set of holes for gear oil to get to the gears from the outside. Thats okay, but they did not go back in and even de-flash the holes.

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As seen in the above, so you must take a die grinder or dremel with a diamond bit and debut and chafer the holes. Or mount it in a mill and counter sink the holes.

So they look like this, Ah much better now.

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Next you need to clean up all the gears, the honda guys just let the diff do this, I chose to spend a lot of time with various grits of sand paper and a glass plate. I learned this in college from one of my room mates, he was a Clarinetist and made his own reeds. Same technique works very well for polishing things to better than new. their are 20 tops and bottoms to do. Maybe I'm then one.

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Still have a long way to go. Rinse and Repeat 40 times. Once done, they will be all nice and shiny on each end. Next is debarring the gear teeth. Oh come on guys really, I have to knock edges off all the helical gears.

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My Sir Andy picture taking skills come into focus again.

I did not take a picture of this because I noticed it when I as assembling. There is a hardened Pin on the upper section of the spool that aligns with a notch in the lower section. I had to know a bur off the pin to get the unit to seat correctly. For good measure mic the pin and make sure the notch matches or is just a hair bigger.

Reassemble in reverse order.

Torque the new bolts down to 23 Foot Pounds. Remove them one at a time and add a dab of blue lock tight to the threads and put back in. The factory morons can really screw up a set of threads, so it is always good practice to chase them before you put the new bolts in. Be forewarned these guys are not much of a machinist or assemblers, you get what you pay for I am guessing.

But I feel much better now running this in my car.

This guy sells a kit if you want to use it, Kit, no affliation, just used his stuff. His writeup on how to repair these is excellent also.

One item off the todo list.

And I started working on the rotisserie again.

Machined new up-rights, my old ones where to short. Yes I am cheap and used a Astro Van jack as my outrigger for my drill press. Hey it works!

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I finished two of these up. And started working on machining the bumper stand offs.

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Then I started working on the plate that goes into the hub, I am using as my pivot point. McMark, I stole your idea, I'll be making it my own shortly.

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Test fit to the hub, Can't believe I pitched all the -4 lug bolts I had around. Luckly I have some extra studs. But I think i'll dig through my piles of junk and see if I can find some lug bolts. Or get the proper Metrics ordered in.

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Thats it for now, I have CPADD, so I ran off to do something else when the Post Lady dropped off a couple of presents today.

Okay Post Lady brought me these today.

This is a piece of WWII goodness.

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And this is a piece of VW-Porsche Incest that created these lovely gauges. Do not like the dome, looks like something Madonna would wear as a bra!

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Its to form the basis for a future project.

And here is what is in my WWII Parker case.

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These are used to bead hard lines. That way your hoses don't slip off.

I will need to clean these up and lubricate them and they will be good to go. Now I can get my fuel lines done, and beaded. Then get a few test beads done.

Wow, of all of the great details in your build thread, the Parker Bead kit is the most awesome.
Where in the hell did you find those!

I have had a search setup on Ebay for a while now, finally got one at a price I could justify. I have been waiting on these for about 5 years now.

And thank you, just trying to help the next guy / gal that goes down this path. We get enough of these done, it might make the path wide enough, anyone will be willing to walk down it.

When you put a flat piece of glass on the 924 gauge it looks so much better. I think it will be perfect for a conversion car if you like the stock-ish look. Still haven't checked calibration on the fuel gauge but you can swap that out with the 914 piece if you have to.

For todays update, I am tired of drilling holes for this rotisserie. I should have pulled the trigger ran to Cleveland and picked up the unit Doug has. Oh well, the build is most of the fun for me.

So here we go.

I got the welder out today, and my gas solenoid does not work I have plenty of gas in the tank, it traveled down the hose. Switched to Flux Core, I'm welding thick wall tubing and plate anyway.

Got the bottom frame done, welded up. I hate the splatter from Flux core.

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Got the front arms welded up, I might have to redo this one, I not sure how my math came out.

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Welded my caster plates on, nice penetration on these welds.

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Started working on the stand offs for the bumper mounts, welded them up using 3/8" bolts. Test fitted them, and well the bolts are not big enough for the holes. So off to Tractor supply to buy 1/2 bolts.

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Welded on nuts to the top of the caster plates. Splatter

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And one side is done, lol, hardly. Lots of work left todo on this side even.

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I need to invent the clean garage app. You take a picture, of your garage clean, an it becomes the background for all your other garage pictures, that way everyone thinks you work in a surgically clean environment. I really need to get the 5 gallon bucket of straps back in the truck. And that little white table is my wife's project. I have been moving it around for 3 years now. Not judging, just tired of it being here, there, everywhere.

I was saving these for my gauge thread, but since you brought it up Chris.

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924 quad, using VDO movements. There is even enough room for 5mm LEDs for warning lights, except the gen light, I need to figure out the load, as the bulb is part of the circuit. I'll have to

Only thing I don't like is the windows are not beveled like the 914 originals are. But then you figure the 924 was the next generation car, and that extra touch disappeared before the 914 was out of production. Most likely due to cost.

If I use this piece, I will need to redo the arches of the gauges so they look better, move all the identifiers to the 924 piece, and well figure out a way to hold it, as in the 924 it is screwed to a plastic piece that is used to separate all the warning lights. But it is something that looks good enough for me to move with it. I won't get back to gauges until, this winter. To many things I can do while the weather is nice, and its above 50 degrees.

Hey that's cool Stephen....great idea. I'm using mine as-is. Didn't realize there were actually 4 windows... You can get those gauges for nothing too which is nice. I think mine was $18. Maybe I'll get another one to play with/mess up .

Yeah, now that the word is out Chris, you might want to grab a few more, I can see a run on them.

Rotisseri has been complete

I used a set of 914 Trailing arms for the rotational bearings, and found that they worked a little to well. So I had to create an indexing wheel to keep the chassis from rotating. I have the suspension removed on one side, so it will go to that side with out issue, stupid gravity.

So how does a CSOB build an indexing wheel.

With a 914-4 rear brake rotor of course.

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Next I figured I would have to find the level spot then figure out the angles do some math

Until I remembered I have this.

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Then I drilled in a hole for a hardened guide. it is 5/16" ID, slight over 1/2" OD, and well a 15/32" hole, and a press and well I now have my fixture to hold the pin. After that grabbed my tight quarters drill and drilled my first hole with the bar level.

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Drill a bunch of holes, using the angle finder, and adding 22.5 degrees to each rotation. In reality it was easier than that, the degree finder is marked at 45 and 90, I just had to find 22.5 and 67.5. I used a clamp to hold it in position whileI drilled. It can be off just a little bit, It won't matter.

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And the final result.

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This was a huge step forward, allowed me to remove the chassis from my lift. I was then albe to get the SVX donor up on the lift, and start draining fluid prepping it for engine removal.

Yes forward progress!

thats a bit overkill but awesome at the same time

A lot has happened since I updated this thread. SVX is gone, and recouped most of my cost, figuring I drove the car for 9 months, and did not have to get my new TDI a salt bath it paid for itself.

So we will pickup now where I left off. I had gotten a Coldwater cradle. Great work there Ian. Issue I found was it would not work with the exhaust setup I wanted to run. So off to the drawing board. I sold off the Coldwater stuff, thank you.

So now I started stripping the chassis. The plan is to go back in cut out al the un-needed stuff, fabricate everything that needs to go back in. Clean it up, section by section and get it into primer.

So let the fun begin.

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Wow that is one dirty rear trunk floor but it is solid.

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Passenger Cabin floors, solid little bit of surface rust under the brake pedal area.

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Front trunk, floor dented by the tow hook, and you can see the rust under the floor where the brake pedals reside.

It is really a pretty solid car. I will update it more as I progress.

Oh yeah...

I was told today I need to start posting more in my build thread

So a few more of the car being stripped. Got the front out with ease, I have lots of practice, I have only removed about 20 of these things, and have broke 3 on my 914.
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One Piece

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Love 3M windshield snot, nice big ole pile of

Rear window was much more of an issue. Somewhere along this 914's life some one filled the rear window with silicone. And trust me it was not an enhancement. So after trying for hours on end, I was about to give up. I went to google and found this!!!!!

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Oh I have something that is like that in my tool collection.

So out came this.

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Dremel Multimax!

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And it worked, I used a scraper blade. Most likely would have been better if the scraper blade was thinner, as it would get gummed up a bit. But after not making progress to 10 minutes and it was out. I will put up with having to clean the scraper blade a few times, and having to reclock the blade.

Car almost stripped.

Now how the heck do you remove these with out driving the pins into the chassis, and loosing them for ever?

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Just get new ones from 914rubber... http://shop.914rubber.com/914-Windshield-t...m?categoryId=-1