...and I am sure you will weld it back in using your fancy new TIG welder so that you don't have to grind welds when you are done

Well, heck, you should swing down to Cincy sometime!

BTW, for future reference, re: post #292:

...should you need to remove powder coat ... CRC gasket remover...
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2304334

Love all the ideas in this thread.

Im down here 5 times a week

Well long week traveling and nothing done on the 914 I have real good friends in Vegas though and made arrangements that when the car is done, and sorted, I can ship it out to their place and pick it up for a west coast run. And yes you two can drive it until I get there. make you remember what it was like to drive a real car.

Their current stable includes an M4, I am sure my little 914 will be able to scare the out of them.

One thing I did notice, no E85, living in corn country really spoils us. I can get E85 on almost ever street corner. With E85 in the tank, my little car can take positive pressure with out engine reconfiguration. With out it will have to stay NA

Oh other thing that sucked, coming back from very nice 70 degree 30% humidity to 28 degree and 60% humidity. I need to move desert.

Well yesterday UPS man showed up with some new goodies.

Rebel Racing adjustable spring perches.

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And installed

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Need a set of helper springs and separator.

Also need to lathe down the spacer again for Tangerine's Rear shock mount. The nylox section is not on the threads.

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And then after that, I grabbed some sheet metal and :smashed: this out.

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I really need to get myself a brake, but the vice does such a nice job. All the hammer marks

Oh it also shows the flare detail.

And this is what it is meant to hold.

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Then today I worked on my Truck, and then got a bit of time on the 914.

Started working on the fuel tank, it is related honestly

Drilled it for the in tank fuel pump.

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Making a backer to sandwich the mount to the tank, and give the studs something to bit into.

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Got the power wire isolated and the ground lug installed also.

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All this to put this in the car.

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Walbro pump will support e85 and will push enough fuel to reach my goals

Here is the reason I chose the location I did.

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The Pump will be centered up, screen sits about 3/8" off the bottom. And the return dumps right into the baffle in the stock tank. Hopefully that will keep me from having to run a fuel sump. We will see, going lean can cause some serious damage,

Yes I know it is a rusty bottom tank, I need to get it cleaned and sealed. First I need to modify it to clear the camber plates.

Not sure if I should just it? Or take the time to cut it apart, and pieces back in then get it sealed. One thing for sure it does not fit the way it is right now.

I also need to get gas for the welders, but with the truck being down, hauling cylinders was not my top priority.

And snow , guess our mild fall is over

Back to using the stock tank? I thought that there was other stuff going in that space.

What fuel pump is that?

Well I keep flopping like a fish.

In reality you bring up a few good points.

Aftermarket tank = easier

Venting through the hood = easier

Camber boxes with out trunk tank separation = easier

Adding tie in across the camber boxes DOM

Building a area to store everything = easier

A/C I have found a place to tuck it, with some cutting and a remote fan. It will retain full defrost, heat, and cooling both floor and dash vents. And have circulation of cabin air, very important in Humid Ohio!

So Scott as usual you snap me back into reality.

Answer your question.

It is a Walbro F90000267 - a 450 LPH E85 fuel pump

So thanks to Scott, I went out after running around with the wife and got a few hours in the shop.

First cleaned up, hate working in a jumbled mess.

So after that, I fixed this little hole for the antenna. Who needs a radio antenna anymore.

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After that in an effort to do more things twice to five times on my car. I got out my fuel cell and sat it in the front trunk.

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Look familiar Scott

This is where the A/C unit will go, just need to cut it out.

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This will allow this area to have a battery down low, and the brake reservoirs.

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I then decided there is no time like the present. So I marked a line, and started cutting.

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Which then allowed for this to sit in place.

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Well I am done for the night wife is back home time to spend some time with her

I was sort of hoping that you would continue the in tank pump setup on the stock tank so that I could copy it for Doug's car!

I forgot where you are planning to run your cooling lines but if you are thinking about doing it like I did mine, I highly recommend finding a way to run the lines straight out of the passages above the steering rack hump and alongside the fuel tank. Even if it requires cutting a chunk out of the sides tank.

That AC unit is going to fit great!

Cheers,
Scott

Which AC unit is that? I see its a mock up. Looks like the unit I want to use..

Also your steering shaft is right there, you might want to move it over a couple inches.

Vintage Air Mini Space Saver with heat and defrost. All Electric servos, so controls can be mounted where ever.

I will be using the 4 rotary knob controls, and add a set of center vents right under the controls.

It just misses the steering shaft, and joints. Thank you for the reminder as it is easy to miss that stuff.

Did you cut up the mock up? Mind if I buy the mock up off you when your done as thats the unit I was going to purchase.

(I figured thats what it was as it looked similar)

PS that shock tower looks thick!

Only the top plate.

Well as of Saturday it has been 6 months since I modified my fingers with a larger disc sander.

Here is the update, everything is looking really good. I am grateful everyday as this could have been much worse. I have feeling in all the fingers, they work they way they should. My nail is even growing out flat, and getting back to normal. Only issue I have right now, is stuff gets pushed under there, and it is a real bitch to clean out.

So 6 months ago.

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And now

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Also the last update for this car for a while, as I am putting it on hold to complete another project. I put the EG build back onto the rotisserie.

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This frees up my easy car lift to go under the 914-6 allowing me to do suspension, brakes, and clean the underside, etc.... Eventually will allow for the engine to be installed.

I need to build a dolly for this one anyway.

I also pulled the EG33 off the engine stand in preparation for the 914-6 engine to go onto it for inspection and complete the rebuild.

Oh and Murphy decided to pay my house a visit and wrecked my furnace. So that was a serious hit to the budget. I guess heat is more important, than cars.

Well it has been awhile and Kent called me out.

So here you go Kent.

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A year has passed since I ran my fingers into a 3400 RPM 12" disc sander. And this is how they turned out. Do not look bad at all. I am very grateful this was the outcome.

So this car, not much has gone on, I have purchased / upgraded a few parts, and will be selling off the items these replaced. My car funds are a bit short, as I sold my TDI to VW, who promptly sent me a check. To which I purchased a 2008 MB ML320 CDI. I can tow 7000 pounds, cruise in luxury, and still get 25-30MPG. Towing I get 18-20 MPG. I am quite pleased with it, and wished I got one sooner. That being said it has tapped me out on car funds as it required a lot of tools to service this bugger. I like tools but come on MB, then again I have a ton of VAG tools all ready so is it really any different And I have purchased a bunch of 911 engine tools I really should not complain about tools. And I have more that I would like to have

Oh and my son's have seem to find an affinity for taking out small animals at high rates of speeds. One took his STI and took out a ground hog not once twice. The other one took out an opossum with his Rabbit.

What started out is a simple repair ended up, being a complete front end tear down. Blew the entire lower rad mounts out, the rad support, the inner air guides, the bumper support, and a few other things Oh and I found the odd leak he had on this car. At some point some one put the screw on the right to hold the AC lines to the Radiator boss. It should be the size of the one on the left, not the right, they are used to hold door cards to the door.

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I understand the $$$ part but don't stay away from your project too long. There are some other 3.3 fans that need your support.

The 914-6 is the main focus right now, like to get it done and get dad out for a ride in it.

That rabbit just won't go back together, today I found out that new core support is from a Jetta, I would have to change the entire front end , lights grills, fenders, hood, and bumper to use it

And then to make matters worse, the new Radiator and the old A/C condenser did not fit well. A/C condenser was bowed in the middle, rad straight as an arrow. Put the AC condenser over my leg and bent it back semi flat. Hopefully I did not bust the system open I have to tools to fix it, just did not have a tank, otherwise I would just pulled vacuum and purged the system. Popped gauges on it, and it is still pressurized, check again in the morning to see, here to hoping something went right on that car.

Oh the Rabbit Core support NLA from VW So I might be getting the wielders, staplers and epoxy back out. Scott I might need to borrow my double barreled epoxy gun back.

I missed the 914-6 part of this story! Is that in another thread?

[url=1970 914-6 restoration project - longest know to man - 1976, back on track]Here you go[/url]



You can still call me a slacker though.

Got the core support all welded up.

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This stuff worked like a champ. Also used some hot staples to give it a bit more support.

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I also did one of these for the -6, need to look at them with the Momo wheel and see if I want to clear it or matte clear it.

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Going after this look

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Well it is just a plug to free up some cash for the build.

I have my Coldwater MT5 cable shifter setup forsake in the classifieds.

Hope I don't regret it

Whatcha doing instead?

Kent that is an easy one as I am a sucker for great design.

So I went with Zero decibel motorsports Bell Crank Shifter for the MT5.

They manly market to the Factory Five guys for the 818s.

I really like it, nothing wrong with Ian's (Coldwater's) design, this one just struck my button.

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I am hoping to shorten the shifter rod in the trans as it does not give me much clearance back there.

It only comes as the bell crank and assembly, you have to provide the cables, and shifter. Ian's stuff comes with the cables. So they are pretty much a dead nuts same cost option.

I will say Craig was very easy to work with.

We will see how it works out.

Looks sweet. I'm surprised you haven't sold Ian's model yet! The price is right.

Kent im :confused:also

Just ordered cables, and the thing of it is I'll have about and extra $125 in cables alone, of course they are top notch stuff built for off shore racing boats. I will most likely use the hemi joints that came with it, but might switch out to aircraft parts if I find they get worn from road grit.


Have to get it on the road first

and saves you so many hours vs making your own.

Time is money, but money does not equal time

So I did the run down.
Ian's kit was $375 new when I purchased it, plus shipping.
Zero Decible is $300 for the linkage and rod ends (in your choose of colors) and then you have to purchase the cables. plus shipping. Cables can be what ever quality you choose. I tend to go with higher end stuff I hate doing work twice, even though I do it a lot. Least expensive set of marine helm control cables I could find for this application in the quality I liked was $116.00, plus shipping. So I have exceeded the cost of Ian's very fine kit. That leaves the items for the front. MR2 shifter is the one of choice, others work. MR2 shifter costs have started to climb, as the breakers have found out that they ae in demand from us 914 guys. We set the pulse of the economy You tend to pay for quality I get that. One advantage I see over Ian/s kit is you can pick the quality of cable, you also have a situation that looks like the geometry might be a tad bit better. We can compare Ian's to ZDM's by letting Scott try both. That would still be subjective to Scott's feelings and the amount of time he has invested in Ian's kit, but I think he actually has two cars in his shop with Ian's kit, I have the ZDM kit on mine. We will have to see.

First I have to get mine running

Wow surprised I have not been hit by the slacker thread, maybe I have and just was a slacker and did not read it.

Watching Chris' great EG33 thread, I jumped off the deep end and went after a new radiator. Been looking at the Jeep Cherokee Rad, but this one seems to fit.

Well it came in on a fast boat from China or on a place with the latest shipment of Samsung Tablets.

Here is how if fits in the 914-6. Yeah I know wrong car but the 914 EG project is back in the shop somewhere buried I can't find it right now.

So this will have to do.



It don't fit

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Nothing that a bit of can't fix. I'll just narrow down the top of the tanks to get past the head light buckets. It is only Aluminum

Try it angled forward at a 45 degree angle under the light buckets.

I was always curious if that one would fit! Its too bad its not a couple inches shorter.. If you can weld that up then WOW. I'd love to see the details on how your going to accomplish that!

If you made it a couple rows shorter you might be able to completely fit it under the headlight buckets and then have a front trunk that could fit a spare tire and stuff!

It is just crappy Aluminum I have access to a certified welder that welded aluminum tanks for a living. If I can't make the puddle move, he can.

As far as fitting under the headlight buckets, that would be very nice idea. I have thought about doing like Brant did on his race car, and moving the head lights into the turn signal buckets. But then, I had a place that would do custom Rads for UTVs but lost it. They where in Cincinnati. The calculations came up that you would have about the same area as the SVX RAD, with more rows. You just have to keep it back behind the back edge of the headlight bucket. You can also use a curved RAD to gain a bit of surface area.

Really want to be able to show the people what I am thinking. In reality I could draw it up, and 3D print it, and just say make it. In reality I could also print it on the 3D printer out of Aluminum or Titanium. Neat idea, but man I would literally burn through a ton of powder to do it. But it would work

Back to buying a $55K 3D laser metal printer. Keep finding reason to purchase one of them for home shop.

So after Chris suggestion I ran out to the shop and flipped his idea, and I think this will work.

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Then I did this nice color diagram.

Green is the front cover.
Blue is the transition over the top to the flat floor
Pink is the floor that opens above the spare tire well.

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Nice artful picture there.

So since I could not get the idea very clear I did this quick not to scale line drawing.

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Air enters the front, goes through the radiator, down a small transition, and under the wheel board, and out the side exits I have made in the wheel wells.

All ideas are unproven at this point copy them at your own risk.

Gotta love the colors! Good to see things back on track.

to get any updates!

Need some help. What is the distance from the crank shaft center line to the bottom of the stock oil pan ?

Thanks

LOL, you think I just have these engines just sitting around.

I will have to dig one out to get you the measurement.

From some pictures I have of other builds it is around 6 2x4 high layer on the flat side. so 6' x 1.5" = 9" from crank center to bottom of the shipping skid.

I will have to check for you if you need a more accurate measurement.

Kent,

No progress on this car, working on my father's -6 still. Dad to a turn for the worse, so I have not been working on that car for the past few months.

No,that's ok.
Thanks

Why was this spacer needed in the first place?
Don't ask why I am wondering. Was in a less than engaging meeting and....squirrel.

[quote name='Amenson' date='Jan 15 2019, 01:37 PM' post='2681332']
[quote name='914forme' post='2424894' date='Nov 19 2016, 03:43 PM']
Well yesterday UPS man showed up with some new goodies.

Rebel Racing adjustable spring perches.

Click to view attachment

And installed

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Need a set of helper springs and separator.

Also need to lathe down the spacer again for Tangerine's Rear shock mount. The nylox section is not on the threads.

[/quote

Why was this spacer needed in the first place?
Don't ask why I am wondering. Was in a less than engaging meeting and....squirrel.
[/quote]

We have all had the less than engaging meetings

The reason is the stock spring hat has a bell shape. Which allows the hat to move on the bearing properly where as the aftermarket one does not have that feature. The spacer allows for the hat not to bind in the raised pickup point. The spacers are just made from the stock strut topper. Easy fix, and eliminates the binding, eliminating the premature wear rate on the shock creating a failure situation. Tony “Kracker” was the first person I knew who had the issue. And Chris Foley mentioned the issue to me. You know me I love to solve problems. So this was my KISS solution. Will not be an issue unless your moving the upper rear shock location and are using a different spring hat.

After raising and lowering Grey 100 times over the weekend without having to worry about the springs coming out of the hats I decided that I needed to do something about the rear coil overs on Porsti and could potentially fix the issue by raising the mounts (it would also get rid of the last bit of rubber in the suspension).

Now I have to consider the length of the spacer to see if I can keep the assembly under tension with the helper spring at full droop. Why can anything custom be simple?

What is the radiator from that you are using in the latest mockup? Might be good for Marks EG.
Edit: Found it going back to Chris' thread. Alpine A310!

In my days of racing when time on track was more important the design nirvana I just drilled a couple holes in the spring hat and zip tied the spring to the hat, and let it float on the bottom collar and shock body.

Simple never worried about them.

Now I want to use proper methods, though down and dirty has its appeal

I currently have zip ties and it bothers me.

If the spacer is not there, will the shock rod be constrained by the Tangerine spherical mount? Based on your comment that you need to shorten the spacer to get more threads exposed for the nut, the spacer is supporting the step at the top of the rod. If the spacer sat over the shock rod I could get the maximum extension of the shock even with the spacer in place. Make any sense?

Yes makes loads of sense. The spacer the first time I did them, made them a bit long. 2nd time I made them to be as close to the edge as the stock hat would be. If that makes sense. One thing I forgot to take into account is that the rubber crushes on the stock setup. Spherical bearings do not have a crush factor at least not a perceivable one. I am sure if I mounted them in a fixture and then compressed everything down and toss it into the fixture and recheck the measurements. I am sure I could measure a few .0001th of an inch once compressed and the oil film and small piece of dust gets compressed.

Are you raising the upper shock mounts on POR? Oh one other thing in the consideration. These are the tall mounts, so no top in the trunk for me. On this build it will not come off with out a anyway.

Chris' short unit might not have an issue at all.

If it becomes a huge issue and I am blowing shocks, I will lower the lower pickup point on the trailing arm. That will also allow the extension of the shock to allow full travel.

The spacer and Rebel Racing Hat are the same hight as the stock shock / spring hat. Hope that helps, pictures would help also, but it is too cold to hang in the shop today. I ran out of Propane late yesterday so no heat for me today.

I am working on gauges up in the house today.

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Also working on designing some new products I need a few new tools in the shop to make my designs a reality. Access too a Laser cutter would be a big plus. I am in the prototype stage right now so I can use the laser cutter in my 3D printer. But details are not quite as accurate, LOL, stuff can catch on fire when piercing holes, long lines are not an issue, as you have feed speed in your favor.

Could also do this stuff with a CNC and a turret head, I would only need 3 tools in the turret.

After the last few weeks, I am realizing I need a bigger garage or a way to stack cars, or both.

Surely you need another welder by now.

Kent, funny you should mention that I get a call every month from my welding / gas supplier. I guess he is missing my business.

Since I upgraded tank sizes, I am still on the same tanks I have had. Also been lazy and have to swapped the MIG back over from flux core.

The TIG I am still dropping my Tungstens in to the pool, so that is not going as well as I hoped.

The Gas rig is sitting in the drawer, don't even have the bottles for it anymore. Plasma cutter and band saws have replaced it.

The AC / DC buzz box as not been used for 10 plus years, last thing I did was drag it out for a buddy to weld a cast iron manifold. Same weekend I used it to repair a Pig scale for the FFA group.

So do I really need a new welder, I guess if I tried hard enough I could justify one.

The 914-6 Project will be getting some of the welders attention. A few brackets too weld onto its chassis. Not much just a few small items, sway bar brackets, suspension console reinforcements, and a toe bracket I have designed that is sitting on a note pad next to the computer.

What I could use is a CNC plasma for big stuff and CNC laser that could do lets say 14ga and lighter.

Miller has a sale going on. I don't have a TIG so I still use my Oxy/Acy rig for thin metals if warpage isn't an item. I think you should throw you hat in the ring for some Suby mounts/cradles. Stay busy and hang in there.

My brother in-law is a welding rep for Airgas. His large company was bought out about a year ago now. But he can purchase at his costs, so if I upgrade, and believe me having a blue box, might be in my future, though I normally go with a red one.

As for making the Subaru mounts I would have done it, just ill timing on my part. I would over complicate things, getting the tubes laser cut, and blades all bent.

Project has moved on to help others hopefully finish their EG swaps.

I spent countless amounts of time thinking this over, looking at options, and finally came to this decision.

three things pushed me to this point.

One I have a real 914-6 that I need to focus on getting done.
Two, I was building a Cayman, so might as well go buy a Cayman, or Cayman S, or GT4. Trust me I was in GT4 territory, with dollars and time.
Three I happened upon a deal I could not pass that took care of a bunch of needs and wants. I picked up two BMW and replaced most of the fleet of cars I had at the time 9 total. I was setting money aside for the Cayman purchase, and got a txt from my brother-in-law who details cars as a side gig. A customer had a car he wanted to sell. 2006 BMW 7 Series, all the Alpina bits on it. 50K was the mileage. Half serious I drove the car, and fell in Handels great, has plenty of power, BMW CCA concours winner. While he was showing me parts in the garage, he had an M4 I put dibs on, LOL, and an X5M. We got to talking about cars, and he was going to sell the X5M but the dealership gave him a crappy number. I asked what he wanted for it, and he told me, and I bought two cars that day. Kinda of, it is a longer story but that is an over beer sort of thing.

I started selling off parts of this build, and still have a few items to go. I also got ahold of people I knew who could use certain items to get their builds that much ahead.

Meanwhile the chassis sat in the shop, and thoughts and tormented me. 914-8 tribute car, W12 swap, on , and on, LS???? N54 swap..... On and On.

Reminds me of a song " A terrible thought has moved into my mind
Like an unwanted room-mate drunk on wine
It feeds on my happiness won't pay the rent
I must take proper measures to evict it

A terrible thought has moved into my mind
A giant rat that's nibbling on my pride
It's tearing away my patience and my wit
I must take proper measures set a trap for it

What a terrible thought

What a terrible thought..."

Thank you Poe and Mark Z. Danielewski, BTW great Cello work in that song

Which brings us to here, I got the demon out of my head, it will be put to good use by its new owner to help resurrect a more significant 1974. But that is now part of his story, and I will let him reveal it when he wishes.

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Sad day, as this is only the 2nd car I ever gave up on. I have restored about 30 cars over my years, and to drop 2 to this day bugs me. But I learned a lot from both, and who knows what this will allow to come into my life. Time to move on, finish a couple of projects in the shop, and off the honey do list, and get back on the 914-6.