Throw that engine in there so we can hear it run. Your getting close!

Thank you, thats nice to hear form you, as I feel like your kicking it also.

Fuel surge, I am using a rock crawler design. So Fuel pump is external of the surge tank. The surge tank is a huge fuel filter with the pickup extended to close to the bottom. Then return fuel form the engine then goes back into the surge tank, and if the surge tank overflowith, it will return to the main tank, to be pumped.

I'll add a diagram of it latter.

Thank you again for your kind words.

Kent I so wish I so wish, right now I bolt a seat in when I am fitting things up and pretend, lol.

This car will not likely be a solid color this year, just got the estimate for my daughters wedding for food and bar. OMG, not bad, but still, cover a lot of the cost of the 914 conversion. But we will keep plugging away.

She is within budget right now, and knows Dad does not go for the excuses. They are all B.S. anyway! Still should be a wonderful May wedding, plan a few years ago was to have the 914 done for that day.

I am also supposed to be thiner and look like Hugh Jackman in X-Men shape

If I get one out of three, I will be extremely proud of my accomplishments. As I am sitting here eating lunch, a plate full of black beans, and vegetables.

I have until the end of May, I'll make the thinner target, I am already thinner, and in better shape, doubt I'll make 12% body fat, and not a big fan of oiled up, spray on tan.

I have an airbrush

Awesome! From your initial post it sounded like you were not 100% sure if you were going to do it. With the lateral G's the 914 sustains I think its an awesome solution for those that dont want to spend $$$$ on a fuel cell.

I'd love to see your design when your done with it

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Okay now for the description.

A: Stock Fuel Tank

B: Low Pressure Filter suction side to protect the pump

C: Low Pressure High Volume Fuel Pump

D: Fuel Filter / Sump

E: High Pressure EFI pump

F: engine and injectors, fuel rail, pressure regulator, etc...

G: Is a T One side comes from the pressure regulator outlet, the other side goes into D, and the last side goes onto the tank return. If for any reason the surge is full of fuel, the extra heads back to the main fuel tank, if not, the return will bring some back into the filter sump. At max the low pressure side will be 7 psi.]

Only issue I see is their is a filter and pump in the engine compartment and they could get heat soaked and vapor lock.

The EG should have a cooler engine compartment than the type-4 would have had. It is still a potential issue. Won't know until it is tried.

Just got back from a funeral for a team member's father who died at 53 Before I had to go, I was able to get some work done on the 914. Would much rather have gone to Scott's looked at his cars, ate good chill, and drank bear But that is part of being a leader, sometimes you have to do things you would rather not do. It is all for the good of the cause.

Made a few brackets for the overflow bottles and the coolant tank.

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Zinc sprayed on the areas that will not be accessible.

Had a Squirrel moment and cut the pedal area out No going back now!

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Cut out the drivers side -4 engine mount, and started mocking up the log reinforcements

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And this is where my big oil filter gets mounted. Plenty of clearance to the engine, and easy access.

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Started welding the engine mount in place

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Shop is getting messy again, heading out to clean it up a bit, starting to loose small tools. I freaking hate that!!!!!

God I know that feeling. I usually wait until it reaches that state before I clean up. Years ago, I built a plane and I had 3 pr of Cleco pliers. Whenever I could not locate any of them I would stop and clean shop. Hi-Jack over.

Got more stuff done yesterday, mainly layout, and drilling holes

The tools of the trade

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Love layout dye, so much easier on my eyes Yes that is a rivet spacer, works great for marking plug weld holes. A Carbide scribe and a ruler.

Rinse and repeat, a continuous theme for this car.

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Center Marked on another piece

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Holes Drilled

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Left overs from all the cutting and drilling

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And all the leftovers from the body cuts and pattern making.

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Now we know how many holes it take to fill the driver log. Yes bad reference to the Beetles lyric. "Now they know how many holes it takes to fill the Albert Hall"

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130

More Holes
Second Side of the engine mount

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Collant Tank Bracket, need to clean the paint off. But it is test fitted

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Final Hole for the brake pedals.

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I then cleaned up the workshop, and lastly I started to mockup the pedal mount out of foam core.

Not as easy as I had hoped for, so I found the dimensional drawing and will give that a go. Wish it had the centers for the M/C openings.

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That was a wrap for this weekends work. I will try to get a little done each day, today it might be find a hole saw on the way home. I want to get a Metal Lathe!!!! That want list for tools is huge, and a Metal Lathe will be on the long side of that list. A good TIG welder should be up first. And a Horizontal bandsaw, to make nice square tubing cuts.

The cost of a Milwaukee Porta Band stand for that purpose is more than a decent used horizontal band saw.

Last night I was doing some work on my harness, adding snap eyes to the shoulder straps on my Profi IIs and discovered my dates all ended on 2015.

So it looks like before I start racing again, I will be buying a new set. Yes I can have them rewebbed. That being said I like the idea of the FIA 2" lap, and 2" shoulder hybrid, that way if I ever where a HANS, it fits better.

Now I wonder with the hybrid uppers if I could move the clips in closer to the seat head rest Time to put a seat back into the car and give that a try.

I don't wear the harnesses on the street, I have a new set of 3 points going back into the car.

Add that to the list with a new helmet for this year. I am sure local auto-x events would not look at the belt dates, but future plans hold that this car will be used for so other events.

WOW I think you are having too much fun! looks great.-
btw, what kind of flares are you putting on? are you going the GT, or fiberglass?

D. None of the above - I have a nice set of Tangerine Racing Steel Flares. They match my older rear flares I cut out with out all the splices and filler. Chris' panel beater does a great job

And thank you for the kind comments, I am having loads of fun!!!

I had considered having Chris do a set for me, my rear fenders are kind of a mess. After I put the 7's on the rubbed and blistered the paint and trying to stretch them to get an extra 1/2 inch creased the lip and bent it, so its going to need work anyway. how much does chris charge for a "mild" increase, I want stock look but need extra 1" max

Those are great flares. Nice alternative to the GT flares.

Hey Steve did you find the engine harness? I have the wiring diagrams if you need them and can get you some pics of mine for reference when I pull the engine. Just about ready to lower it down. Drained the fluids, just waiting to be there are no stray antifreeze drips (not good for the dogs).

No Chris I did not. I might just go full MS3X so I can run sequential spark. Will be using GM LS coils. It will also do dual fuel, which I plan on running E-85, but will nee the ability to run high octane, if I can't find the corn fuel.

More progress I started laying out the various lines and systems. First up clutch as it was easy.

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Brake Lines

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And now the key, and part numbers

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Yes I have 3 brake line switches. One for the lights, and two for the cruise control. I might need another one for the laugh control, have to think that one through.
Got home, beautiful night in Mid Western Ohio 70+ degrees. So out to the shop I went. Swaged winter tires of my Daily. Which means it will snow in a few weeks.

And started welding in the inner suspension console and logs on he driver side.

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Grabbed a little welding time before work today.

Drivers side Logs almost done, the console was seam welded before I added all the extra to it.

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Started working on the plates to mount the oil and fuel filters.

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And this is the filter boss fits over the studs

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Hopefully get back to some welding tonight once I get home. Get the filter mount in place, roll over the upper sections, and then add the oil filter console, and the accusump mounts need to be fabricated.

And this just got delivered, it will help keep my uni-bits a little long-lasting.

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Just in time, I need to drill a few hundred more holes. I am hoping to get out of the engine compartment this weekend.

Are you planning on running an adjustable proportioning valve for your dual circuit brake system? Looks pretty well planned out and great progress on the build!

Dual brake masters with a balance bar

Made some weld bolts, cut most of the head off a bole, mount it up on the weld table, and weld them. Grind them almost flush, and you have some nice studs.

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Oil filter mount welded onto the log.

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Oil filter mounted and then I needed to test to make sure my Suspension console reinforcement bar clears that big filter.

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Plenty of room

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Welded on the tank support

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Welded in the front side washers on the harness mounts. This will help keep the tube from just running through the firewall.

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Spent the rest of the night with a dremel making a bracket fit a compound curve

No pictures of that, I'll snap one when I am done.

You need to start publishing lbs of welding wire per day. Getting time behind the torch before work...bad ass. Keep up the progress.

No I really don't want to know that number. I do weigh everything else, it will be interesting to see if I can keep the car at class weight of 2150 lbs. Still counted as a 4-Cyl 914.

I did go and get tanks refilled today so I can keep going!!!

Realized I have mis-placed my oil thermostat, I hate that!!! Knew right where it was went and opened the drawer, and it is gone

That being said, tested out the one of the new gas cylinders, yes it is working, I had one place give me an empty cylinder once. I now have manifolds that show tank and outlet pressure from the regulator so I know when I am getting into the critical zone. I spent a lot of time trying to figure out that the cylinder was empty as I could not wrap my head around some one giving me an empty cylinder. I also don't go back to that gas supplier anymore. I head over to Springfield. Great older guy there, we shoot the for a bit each time, and he takes me to the racks and points at the cylinders. I am way younger than him, so I'll do all the heavy lifting. He treats me right ever time So they have won my business.

He also keeps poking me to buy a TIG, Lincoln is running a pretty good deal for a square wave AC unit, I might have to bite the bullet. I don't have a lot of Aluminum welding to do yet for they project. So little I can farm it out and still be way ahead cost wise.

I still want to do some TIG, and the fender flares might just be the place I use it, after some practice on something not quite as critical. Theory is it would be easier to keep the weld under control, and hammer weld with a softer filler.

I find I go through gas more than wire. Granted my gas trigger sticks but its still quite a lot. I make it a habbit to turn off the gas between welds now.

Harness mounts completed, these little boxes took a lot longer than I would have liked.

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Need to do a little grinding and I'll be done with that part of the project.

Started on Engine mount number 2

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Back at it tomorrow

Spent the day going through boxes of parts, and selecting the items I want to keep, and what must go. Oh what fun it is then to clean up the workshop. But it must be done, other wise I get a little crabby.

I did find my accusump mounts

I also drilled more holes to fill the drivers log top, and well started working on passenger log items.

BTW, Boeing makes some great lube, you can really tell a difference in the drilling. Steel does not push through as much. And Aluminum cuts like butter, producing long slinky like chips.

BoeLube is great Not sure it's for steel but anything is better than nothing. The main thing is to find the correct speed for the bit and to keep it cutting once you begin drilling. It's a distinctive feel and sound when the bit is "cutting". Much easier w/ AL than steel. Keep on having fun.

Well I had a Blau 80 mm cap, but I decided I would sell it, it was not going through the hood, but my hood will have a door, so I need something to grab ahold of.

So I knocked this out.

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Installed on the tank, temporarily.

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Then I started working on the oil thermostat, got a new one in. Never found my old one.

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And I ran out of the proper length bolts to make my studs.

Then I started working on my new engine stand to get the mockup unit under the car while the car is still on the rotisserie.

So Like most things I over thought it. Started cutting metal to make a motor rotisserie. Then I figured out for what I needed todo in the near future, a drivetrain rotisserie is just over kill. Latter, it will make sense maybe, but I doubt it. So I put all the metal back in the bin, and built it out of wood.

So you can see it was a success!! The engine is in, to allow me to start working on the new engine mount.

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Clearance to the front firewall

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Clearance on the drivers side

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Clearance on the passenger side, -4 motor mount is still in there. need to get the and get that out of there.

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Here was the reason I needed to modify that cart. The leg on the rotisserie gets in the way. Engine is support the tranny makes it tip backward, so I have a ratchet strap on the front to keep things where they belong.

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Down and dirty engine cart a few 2x4s a scrap 2x12 and a few screws.

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Today I ordered a few parts from the land down under, them Aussies have all the stuff.

And I calculated my fuel pump requirements, I need at minimum 190lph for E85. and looking at the 914 tank, I realized you knuckle head, it has a baffle in it. As long as I can get the fuel pump pickup in that part of the tank, I will be golden. So I will keep the fuel filter before the injectors, I just won't be running the complicated setup, I have drawn out several times.

Worse case I drop a Holly Hydrant in the 914 sump just to make sure I am good.

Any one know where I can get some 1-3/8" green stripe or equivalent, in a larger roll, not sure how much I need? Wonder if I can get 1-1/4" to slip over the 1-3/8" inlet, some serious lube and muscles maybe.

I am open to suggestions

Steve,

Seems like the 1.25 should stretch to 1 3/8. I was able to stretch gates 7/8 heater hose to 1" by soaking the end in hot water and then using a small amount of dish soap. You need less than 25 feet but it's nice to have some extra. A roll is 50 feet which is where the price break comes in. If you can find someone to split a roll this is a good deal:

Gates 1.25 Hose

Thank you Chris, and yes that is a great Deal I'll post the rest in the classified once I have completed my design.

If you want to split it, I'm in

The green stuff flexes really well. 1 1/4 should work well. A little oil helps a lot.

I would just keep spare lines just incase it splits.

Sounds good, I'll bring the other half to Hersey with me, , your going to make me drive my truck aren't you

It is not a problem really, but if I avoid bringing the truck it makes so I am less likely to bring home a bunch of big items.

Not a bad idea there Andrew, I will eventually need to place an order with Jags that work for some adapters. Still a long way out though.

Got the over flow bottle and catch can for the engine mounted.

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Started working on other brackets and mocking up the accusump mount.

Green Stripe ordered, as was the Accusump back flow preventer. No reason to fill the oil cooler if the engine needs the oil.

Cleaning up a little bit, workshop is a mess, then I will start up again.

Will I was out of ton for work a few more items showed up to keep this car moving forward.

Did not take a picture but I have a huge box of Green Stripe 1-1/4" in the garage 50 feet of it. Matches another 50' roll of 7/8" Green Stripe You would think I was collecting this stuff, I need some more but need to measure what inner diameter I need for the heater.

Got this in for the land down under.

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Man this thing is tiny

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Nope not a turbo an electric water pump and controller.

Spoke LED Front Euro Turnsignals

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Canton Back flow valve. While working on the mount I dropped the accusump and shatter the gauge. Need to order one of them, love it off until it is going in the final time.

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Garold sent me some A-pilars

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I will be using these to see how they where built, and how they compare to a 944 Coupe

Garold also sent me some axle nuts and washers I misplaced some where.

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And they fit

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911 Hubs, proper depth so I did not need any spacers thanks to Eric and Bruce for these rare parts

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Yep they are 108mm

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Yes I will be running 930 CVs

Stated working on the front engine mount. Did not take any pictures of the inner assembly. Since I don't have a lathe I took a 1-3/8" hole saw and cut a bunch of 1/4" disks. I then took an all tread nut, and put it in-between a double stack of the hole sawed disked. I then weed the entire assemble together. Ground down the welds, and added a larger one on the outside. Drill ed holes in the tub so I could plug weld the Insert I made into the 2" DOM tube.

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Plug welded up

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Mounted in the chassis

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finished welding the modified small car mount.

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I need to go and pickup some bolts and a 1-3/4" dowel rod so I can finish mocking up the front engine mount.

Great stuff! Love the water pump

930cv's are a great choice!

Looking good Steve. You'll be glad you did your mount that way. Leaves the exhaust options wide open.

Yes, it leaves the exhaust open to a lot of options. Equal length headers snaking around. Proper length for the headers where 32.5" I have a set of pool hose to bend around and try to make fit. Wit the bar I could do it, but the collector was out the back of the 914. Or a very simple setup with a cross over going into one of them funny little snail shaped devices

I love building things so It will be a simple NA build this go around. But you will seeI am planning for the future when I get used to the engine. Going from 100HP to 230HP will be a nice bump, and make the car completely different. But evil things happen to us humans and we make the new HP normal.

I sold my last TDI, it was all tricked out! It was plenty fast, got my new stock one, and forgot, I don't have that power anymore. So I downshift to pass and the first time I didn't it was like where is the power! I have been a very good boy and have keep my new one all stock. Though I see that changing it its future. But if the turbo goes out, all hell will cut loose I am sure

First up will be suspension and brakes, tires and wheels! I always start there with all my builds. Need to be able to stop and turn before you start making it move from point a to b quicker.

So if you know someone that has posed their MKVI Jetta GLI, or GTI, I would be interested in suspension and maybe the wheels some of them are to me.

yeah you started that sickness

In reality I like the concept as it solves a problem the EG33 has with high revs and pump cavitation. Or at least I hope it does.

Also just incase anyone needs to know what trans they are buying here is a PDF I liberated with information current to the date of publishing. I was looking for a generation 2 trans yesterday found a few, but this will help narrow down the choice.

Spent yesterday working on the engine mounts, took not one picture, sorry. I have pushed the EG forward another 2", that puts the AC unit just off the firewall. And still gives me some space for tubes. That forward movement adds some space around the rear shift rod, and allows for exist to center exit. It was a tight fit back there.

So now I get to step back and redo all the brackets I made on the trans mount also. Oh well it is a good learning experience.

I need to go and get a 1-1/2" holes saw, mine old one seemed to have seen better days

Oh God. What would it feel like to do something and get it right the first time, Steven? I believe that's is why so many peeps wash out before completion. Takes some mental prep for the disappointments that experimentation brings. BTW, that 1.25 will slip over the 1 3/8" easily. Glycerine is your friend. Keep on keeping on. Kent

Just noticed what you did here

Nice orientation

Well the remanufacture of items I have done in the past continues. I got bot of the transmission hangers mocked up, one side is done. It was much easier the 2nd time around.

I used a shorter section of tube tack welded it in the location I wanted it to be in and covered it in layout dye.

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I then made this handy little scribe, point of the hardened nail is 1/2" from the surface being measured.

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You just trace it around the surface your going the tube to and you have your exact measurements. Mark it on the final tube, add 1/2" and it fits really tight!!

I got into the flow of the project and took no more pictures. I love it when that happens, I just bang out stuff like it was no effort.

Started working on the front Mount from the engine to the bar

As I mentioned in a previous post I moved the engine forward forcing all these changes. Here it is in its final resting spot.

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A/C compressor is tight but it fits.

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And the clutch slave is still in its hole

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The last thing I did was lookup information on my Gen1 Trans.

So it is a 4.44 Final Drive with a 3.454 1st, 2.062 2nd, 1.448 3rd, 1.088 4th, and 0.825 5th gear.

At 70 in 5th I project turning just shy of 3000 RPM that will get old fast. So I started to wonder what combo I needed to get the best of all the worlds.

The WRX in 06 /07 has a 3.9 final drive. All the gear ratios are the same just the final drive changed. That translates into at 70 engine is turning at 2200 RPM.

Now to find a USDM WRX Trans TY754VW7AA from an 06/07

In reality the performance is not much different between the two final drives when I run it through the simulator.

I believe the 06/07 WRX is actually 3.7 final drive.

See bottom of page 4.
http://www.rallispec.com/downloads/Transmi...hart_Public.pdf

Also, they may have also relocated the clutch slave cylinder, that might allow you to patch the hole in the trunk floor.

I know it says 3.7 I am assuming it is a typo. Since the majority of them are 4.44, 4.11, and 3.9. I could not see this one tranny being the only 3.7. Patching the trunk hole would be nice. Though I have a nice solution. I worked hard on that cover then screwed it up.

Hey so...before you buy an 06-07 WRX trans...straight from the 2006 5MT manual. I have the whole 2006 5MT (and 6MT) shop manual if you want it Steve.

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It APPEARS that the non-turbo cars are 3.90 and the turbo cars are 3.70. And it does seem like mine runs a little high RPM in 5th. Can't confirm the final drive...could be a typo but it seems right. I have a 2006 WRX (turbo car) trans.

Thanks for the confirmation Chris.

Also the gear ratios are different. The hunt is on, though I am a long way from deeding it officially.

Update on progress,

More parts are rolling in for the beast, I got my in tank fuel pump mount from Tanks, Inc. It is their Fuel Cell Pickup and return unit. Needs to be modified for fuel pump support. Once I get all these parts I will do a write up on my simple conversion to in tank fuel pump.

This setup also eliminates the need for an external sump setup, making my build easier, you got to love that

Nice night last night in the Ohio Valley so I finished welding my last trans hanger. And started working on the new front mount. Got my mock up done, and started cutting it to shape, to get the proper tight fit, this will take a bunch of cut off wheels.

Also I got a notice from AA last night that the Euro Taillights I order will finally be shipping next week. We will see how they compare to all the Hella units I have stock piled. Even the Hellas have various shade differences in the Amber section. So you have to mix and match them if you picked up multiple sets.

I am also getting ready to dive off the deep end with Tangerine racing parts. Before I go to far, I need to hold back , but Chris' stuff is so

Well got to work a little bit tonight before my compressor bit it

No time to get to Harbor Freight tonight for a replacement pump. I would love to just buy a new compressor, but the 914 is more important. So instead of using my die grinders and other air tools, I had to use my dremel to get some tube fitting done.

That being said I got a decent fit for the first front engine mount let going to the firewall.

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Took pictures of the rear brackets, much nicer than my first go around.

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And Mounted in the car

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Fuel pickup came in from Tanks, Inc.

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I have all the little pieces on order for the power lug to pas through this mount. The grounded side is much easier

And I got my Fuel Pump E85 compatible

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And install kit.

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That is it for this update.

Be back at it tomorrow, and modifying my old Air Compressor to except an HF unit. Running it through its break in, reviews say need to do that until cleanish oil comes out of the drain, and then change it to some good purple stuff it will hum right along.

Today I got something done

engine mounts are done, well they need to be coated in something, paint, powder, gun blueing, etc....

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And the test, it works at least as a display piece.

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And I have started my new engine cart, my wood one was quick and dirty, and well All that wood gets in the way. Total pain in the....

So this is the start, this will sit under the cross bar at the front of the engine.

Now to find some good Casters

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Repurposing scrap from my shop lights, I took them out of an open bay workshop and they where attached to these channels. I have used them for all sorts of stuff

Compressor update, well went to Harbor Freight got a pump, and ordered my new pulley for the engine. Got the old one torn apart and tossed it in the metal pile. I get to wait so todays work was done with a Dremel and a bunch of metal cutting discs. Them little things work, but dang they get eaten up quick.

But I did pickup a 12" disc sander at Harbor Freight to help me clean up metal work. And that is one solid disc sander. Oh and it eats metal like nothing else I have ever used. Sure beats my old belt sander stuck in a vice

Not much done on the car today.

I did make the lower part of the brackets for the engine dolly.

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Baby steps

Well parts showed up today

More Parts from down under

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930 Hubs and roll pins for my Subaru Trans.

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Subarugears Sight Glass for Transmission Oil level.

And after waiting 4 long years for this order it finally came I was not going to say anything until I got it in my hands.

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Oh they look so pretty

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I was packing them back up in the box and

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Yes the reverse lens section was glued to the rest of the lens at an angle

So shot an e-mail off to customer service with a picture asking the same question. We will see if I get again