Signal Single Orange 74 EG33 Swap, Gone but not forgotten Options

[914forme]

When you put a flat piece of glass on the 924 gauge it looks so much better. I think it will be perfect for a conversion car if you like the stock-ish look. Still haven't checked calibration on the fuel gauge but you can swap that out with the 914 piece if you have to.

I was saving these for my gauge thread, but since you brought it up Chris.



924 quad, using VDO movements. There is even enough room for 5mm LEDs for warning lights, except the gen light, I need to figure out the load, as the bulb is part of the circuit. I'll have to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Only thing I don't like is the windows are not beveled like the 914 originals are. But then you figure the 924 was the next generation car, and that extra touch disappeared before the 914 was out of production. Most likely due to cost.

[914forme]

If I use this piece, I will need to redo the arches of the gauges so they look better, move all the identifiers to the 924 piece, and well figure out a way to hold it, as in the 924 it is screwed to a plastic piece that is used to separate all the warning lights. But it is something that looks good enough for me to move with it. I won't get back to gauges until, this winter. To many things I can do while the weather is nice, and its above 50 degrees.

[Chris H.]

Hey that's cool Stephen....great idea. I'm using mine as-is. Didn't realize there were actually 4 windows... You can get those gauges for nothing too which is nice. I think mine was $18. Maybe I'll get another one to play with/mess up (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) .

[914forme]

Yeah, now that the word is out Chris, you might want to grab a few more, I can see a run on them. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/lol-2.gif)

[914forme]

Rotisseri has been complete (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

I used a set of 914 Trailing arms for the rotational bearings, and found that they worked a little to well. So I had to create an indexing wheel to keep the chassis from rotating. I have the suspension removed on one side, so it will go to that side with out issue, stupid gravity.

So how does a CSOB build an indexing wheel.

With a 914-4 rear brake rotor of course.



Next I figured I would have to find the level spot then figure out the angles do some math (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Until I remembered I have this.



Then I drilled in a hole for a hardened guide. it is 5/16" ID, slight over 1/2" OD, and well a 15/32" hole, and a press and well I now have my fixture to hold the pin. After that grabbed my tight quarters drill and drilled my first hole with the bar level.





Drill a bunch of holes, using the angle finder, and adding 22.5 degrees to each rotation. In reality it was easier than that, the degree finder is marked at 45 and 90, I just had to find 22.5 and 67.5. I used a clamp to hold it in position whileI drilled. It can be off just a little bit, It won't matter.



And the final result.



This was a huge step forward, allowed me to remove the chassis from my lift. I was then albe to get the SVX donor up on the lift, and start draining fluid prepping it for engine removal.

Yes forward progress!

[dan_the _body_guy]

Rotisseri has been complete (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

I used a set of 914 Trailing arms for the rotational bearings, and found that they worked a little to well. So I had to create an indexing wheel to keep the chassis from rotating. I have the suspension removed on one side, so it will go to that side with out issue, stupid gravity.

So how does a CSOB build an indexing wheel.

With a 914-4 rear brake rotor of course.

Next I figured I would have to find the level spot then figure out the angles do some math (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

Until I remembered I have this.

Then I drilled in a hole for a hardened guide. it is 5/16" ID, slight over 1/2" OD, and well a 15/32" hole, and a press and well I now have my fixture to hold the pin. After that grabbed my tight quarters drill and drilled my first hole with the bar level.

Drill a bunch of holes, using the angle finder, and adding 22.5 degrees to each rotation. In reality it was easier than that, the degree finder is marked at 45 and 90, I just had to find 22.5 and 67.5. I used a clamp to hold it in position whileI drilled. It can be off just a little bit, It won't matter.

And the final result.

This was a huge step forward, allowed me to remove the chassis from my lift. I was then albe to get the SVX donor up on the lift, and start draining fluid prepping it for engine removal.

Yes forward progress!

thats a bit overkill but awesome at the same time (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif)

[914forme]

A lot has happened since I updated this thread. SVX is gone, and recouped most of my cost, figuring I drove the car for 9 months, and did not have to get my new TDI a salt bath it paid for itself.

So we will pickup now where I left off. I had gotten a Coldwater cradle. Great work there Ian. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/pray.gif) Issue I found was it would not work with the exhaust setup I wanted to run. So off to the drawing board. I sold off the Coldwater stuff, thank you. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

So now I started stripping the chassis. The plan is to go back in cut out al the un-needed stuff, fabricate everything that needs to go back in. Clean it up, section by section and get it into primer.

So let the fun begin.



Wow that is one dirty rear trunk floor but it is solid.



Passenger Cabin floors, solid little bit of surface rust under the brake pedal area.



Front trunk, floor dented by the tow hook, and you can see the rust under the floor where the brake pedals reside.

It is really a pretty solid car. I will update it more as I progress.

[mgp4591]

Oh yeah... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[914forme]

I was told today I need to start posting more in my build thread (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif)

So a few more of the car being stripped. Got the front out with ease, I have lots of practice, I have only removed about 20 of these things, and have broke 3 on my 914. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)


One Piece (IMG:style_emoticons/default/cheer.gif)




Love 3M windshield snot, nice big ole pile of (IMG:style_emoticons/default/stromberg.gif)

Rear window was much more of an issue. Somewhere along this 914's life some one filled the rear window with silicone. And trust me it was not an enhancement. So after trying for hours on end, I was about to give up. I went to google and found this!!!!!



Oh I have something that is like that in my tool collection. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

So out came this.



Dremel Multimax!



And it worked, I used a scraper blade. Most likely would have been better if the scraper blade was thinner, as it would get gummed up a bit. But after not making progress to 10 minutes and it was out. I will put up with having to clean the scraper blade a few times, and having to reclock the blade.

Car almost stripped.

Now how the heck do you remove these with out driving the pins into the chassis, and loosing them for ever?

[altitude411]

Just get new ones from 914rubber... http://shop.914rubber.com/914-Windshield-t...m?categoryId=-1

[gryphon68]

Still have a long way to go. Rinse and Repeat 40 times. Once done, they will be all nice and shiny on each end. Next is debarring the gear teeth. Oh come on guys really, I have to knock edges off all the helical gears. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Would it be appropriate to just throw all the gears in a vibrator/tumbler with some abrasive media?

Is it critical the parts go back in original position?

[914forme]

Still have a long way to go. Rinse and Repeat 40 times. Once done, they will be all nice and shiny on each end. Next is debarring the gear teeth. Oh come on guys really, I have to knock edges off all the helical gears. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)

Would it be appropriate to just throw all the gears in a vibrator/tumbler with some abrasive media?

Is it critical the parts go back in original position?

I guess you could do that for demurring the gears, I don't have one, so..... And no the gears don't have to go in specific positions, I just like to do that, little OCD about that stuff. Tends to make things easier to assemble when I walk away from a project for a while.

If I was to do only two things to the OBX, it would be deburr the return holes at the bottom of the gears where they drilled from the other side. And changing the bolts and shim stacks. Oh three things, making sure the guide pin fits in the its receiver space on the other side, and oh......

[914forme]

So this weekend I got busy on engine mount, and trans mounts.

Laying Out the brakes for the lower trans mount. I used the stock Sumaru Transmount for my guide.





Pile of scrap always makes me feel like I am getting something done.



Upper Trans Mounts to the body



Energy Suspension Busing added, looks like I need to clearance the holes a little.



And Seated correctly



Upper part of the trans mount



And well the bottoms of the trans mount bolted to the chassis.

[914forme]

Now making my first bad design I wanted to use so DOM I had around. It did not go well.



And more crap



That tool requires more setup than what it is worth. And well, I had little less than 6" to play with in the car, so I was a bigger pain than it was worth.

So yesterday I cut them all apart and went at it again. This time I had some 1" Square with .125" wall. Back at it, and much easier. Sorry no pictures I got busy building (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sawzall-smiley.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif)

I drilled a small hole in the top bracket, and in the bottom where I wanted the center of my tube to hit. I took a long zip tie, and threaded it between the two points. Now I have my line and my angles. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif) I then took a cereal box, and cut out pattrens and made them fit between the two mounts. I then took a sharpie and traced the zip tie. Removed the cardboard from the car, up on the bench I used a protractor, and figured out the angles. and cut my tubes. And well then fit, nice and tight welded them up.

Here they are in the car.





After much messing around I have the EG33 as far forward as I could get it. I used the engine front mounts forward by drilling the holes off center. That pushed me forward and extra 1.25"



Which did this for my CV alignment.



And still allowed for this, just barely.



And if I was going to use the stock snorkel I would need to clearance the firewall just a little bit.



Only one hole in the car so far it got a little bigger due to this little issue right here,



And I'll make a nice plate to cover this (IMG:style_emoticons/default/barf.gif)



And my starter clears with plenty of room.



And this is the part number if you wish to duplicate it.

[914forme]

Yesterday I got a set of wheels I have been waiting to find for a very long time. Been on the list since the 80s. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)



5 of them (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif)



So why am I so excited?

Not produced any more, and they weigh nothing.

These are 15x8s, they weigh in at less than 13 pouds 2 ounces with valve stems and wheel weights. A 15x8 Fuch's is 15.4 lbs, My Mahle Gas Burners are in the 11_12 pound range for a 15 x 5.5" wheel.

And Hoosier makes an A7 in 225-15, forgot the aspect ratio. These where just announced, new tire, yes for auto-x only, but that will allow me to (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

To round out my wheel dealing again. I also got these.









7x17, and 9x17s 10 spokes off a 996. Oh and these are pretty light with out the OZ or Forge line budget.

7s are 18 pounds 1 ounce, and 9s come in at 20 pounds, 7 ounces. With stems, wheel weights, and center caps. Plan is to black these out, as it will look nice off setting the Orange, these will be my street wheels.

For reference the OZs are $1300 it per wheel, way out of my budget.

So now I'll be getting back to the boring progress stuff. Up for this weekend, removing the doors, setting the door bars in place, flipping the shell on its side, and cleaning the bottom side (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[914forme]

spent the day finishing stripping the car. Doors off, had to cut my parking brake handle pin that holds the cable out, as it was stuck. vacuumed everything up, and started cutting un-need brakes and studs out of the body shell. Lots of drilling of spot welds. And I only drilled all the way through one spot weld. Ventilated my floor board under the passenger seat. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif)



Nothing a (IMG:style_emoticons/default/welder.gif) can't fix.







Also started working on the Alternator mount for the EG33, going to put it where the Power Steering pump was. And try and use the belt adjuster from the Power Steering bracket.

No pictures of that yet

After I removed the doors, I found this damage left over from a fender bender.



I'll need to take measurements and make sure Im good.

[Chris H.]

Meant to post this...very pricey, but the Rocky Mountain Westy intake is nice. Smaller and provides more clearance.

RMW Intake

In case you want to attempt something similar yourself.... wonder what they would charge for just the box (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif) ...probably $397.99

Nice score on the wheels! A couple of my favorite styles.

[914forme]

Chris, Man them guys are expensive, and yes I have plans for something similar, larger MAF will be needed for my plans. yes I'll build my on, thats most of the fun for me.

Today I got the alternator bracket figured out, just need to add some triangulation. Unfortunately my SD card seems to have crapped out, and my pictures are gone. The bracket works great everything fits with the flipped manifold, and I can even use the stock adjuster and belt. Though the belt could be a little shorter to make it work better. Lots of adjustment in the stock belt tensioner. Now back to try and recover the pictures.

[mgp4591]

Failed SD card is no excuse... still needs pictures!! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/slap.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Chris H.]

Yeah re: the RMW intake...the part I don't get is how they attached the rubber tubes that connect to the throttle body to their metal intake piece and made it air tight....they must have a serious lip on them or something...or maybe they are a one-piece mold. I've searched on ebay and at home improvement stores for something similar, no dice. You could probably just go with PVC pieces and use a rubber piece to connect between them and the throttle bodies, or go with 90 degree silicone pieces that would bend downward and allow you more room (use 1.5" BTW NOT 1.75 as it measures or it's not tight enough). Then you could connect with PVC or a custom box of some kind. It would be nice if we could convert the throttle body to a single hole. How cool would that be???

BTW you really helped me out by telling me about that whole cruise control removal thing. I can cap that off and flip my manifold around. I was hating how my setup encroached on the whole trunk. I also think the way I had the cruise hose set up with my custom intake was incorrect, causing an intermittent stall issue. So (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif) .