Rusty bucket into Solo toy, Some highlights of my budget autocross build from rust to rocket Options

[Borderline]

They also asked if I had marked the lifters prior to removal as those were set for each cam lobe. That's something that wasn't mentioned in the Raby video. Anyone heard of that before?

Yeah, the cam and lifters wear in to each other and set up a wear pattern. So, if you are going to use the same cam and lifters you want to put the lifters back in the same hole they came out of. Was it this thread where you are running hydraullic lifters? Maybe time for new cam with solid lifters? Better performance. FWIW

[wndsrfr]

I had some emails with Brothers VW machine shop and they're offering to rebuild for what I think is a fairly good deal (I'm not going to disclose those terms as they may be preferential). Shipping from my location would total about $500 both ways. They did ask that I reassemble the engine to long block for shipping but I'm not sure I can get the jugs back on the pistons with the crank frozen. So I'm 50/50 on what to do at this moment. They also asked if I had marked the lifters prior to removal as those were set for each cam lobe. That's something that wasn't mentioned in the Raby video. Anyone heard of that before?

If they're the ones that did the original build, it's a good idea to have them fix it since you have very little time on that engine. Also since there's little time on the engine there's likely little harm in the lifters getting mixed up.....but the idea of putting in new lifters is a good one. (I always ziplock bag each of mine marked with the hole they come from.)
That said, doing it yourself is a source of satisfaction and you'll be $500 ahead to cover the parts costs....nice cold weather project IMO. If you find out that the shop made a mistake, let them know so they don't do it again.
Getting the jugs back on can be done....it's a little fiddly but you can actually lever the rings into the bottom of the cylinders little by little with a hard plastic or wooden paint stirrer as a probe to push them as you wiggle the jugs down....BTDT.

[ThePaintedMan]

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If you paid them to do the original build, then the onus is on them to fix it, especially with only a few hours on it. And, IMHO, they should pay the shipping.

[brant]

you really want solid lifters

[Han Solo]

Thanks for the advice and tips gentlemen. I'm clear now on the lifters and looking closely at them I can see some wear. Mostly just a dulling of the push rod surface. One lifter does have more noticeable wear. I removed the sump and taco plate last night. There's no noticeable metal particles in either.

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Does anyone know the purpose of this item on below cylinders 1 & 2?

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[wndsrfr]

Thanks for the advice and tips gentlemen. I'm clear now on the lifters and looking closely at them I can see some wear. Mostly just a dulling of the push rod surface. One lifter does have more noticeable wear. I removed the sump and taco plate last night. There's no noticeable metal particles in either.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1336.photobucket.com-16456-1418918431.1.jpg)

Does anyone know the purpose of this item on below cylinders 1 & 2?

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It's the oil pressure regulator....a spring & piston shaped insert are screwed in there....not to be confused with the one that bypasses the cooler. There's a diagram you can search for in the garage...

[Han Solo]

So I cracked the case last night and was pleased to not find any destruction. The only issue I can find is the rear bearing on the crankshaft is seized. It may have spun just slighting as the locating pin hole is slightly wallowed out. But it is fixed to the crank and not moving a mm. The other crank bearings look new, as do the camshaft bearings. The cam lobes have very little wear. The only additional wear I found was on the skirt of #3 piston. That corresponds with the wear marks on the cylinder walls. I'll probably replace both #3 & #4 pistons and cylinders. Next step is to remove the crankshaft gears and connection rods. I'll be searching for a good machine shop to get that bearing off. Open to suggestions gentlemen (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

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[yeahmag]

Do you know what the rear thrust was set to? Having it set overly tight is the first thing that comes to mind.

[Han Solo]

Do you know what the rear thrust was set to? Having it set overly tight is the first thing that comes to mind.

No sir. I do not. Latest development is Brothers is saying the case is junk after seeing those photos. They're offering to build a short block with a different case and any good internals from this. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif)

[ThePaintedMan]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) Get your money back from those clowns. How can anyone look at a case from the photos and determine that's the issue. What Aaron said makes a lot more sense to me.

[brant]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) what is junk about it... did it measure out wrong and need a line bore? no way they can tell anything from a photo. add the facts that they messed up already, and that they installed hydraulic lifters???? time to argue or eat the $ your invested with them and find a new shop.

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/WTF.gif) Get your money back from those clowns. How can anyone look at a case from the photos and determine that's the issue. What Aaron said makes a lot more sense to me.

[Han Solo]

Note that when I sent the original 2.0L engine from this car to them for rebuild it was a GA case, original. When I got the long block it was a EA case which would have been a 1.7 or 1.8 bored for 2.0L. When I questioned them about the swop, the response was "that is what was ready". Being a race car build I wasn't to concerned about matching numbers. However, if the bore was wrong on cylinders 3 & 4 would that have caused the pistons to rub the cylinder walls as they appear to have?

[brant]

There is no difference in case spigot size (or a thing except the #) between a 1.7 and 2.0 case.

The bore is in the cylinders with the case having no effect until you go larger than 2056

[Han Solo]

There is no difference in case spigot size (or a thing except the #) between a 1.7 and 2.0 case.

The bore is in the cylinders with the case having no effect until you go larger than 2056

Well that shoots that theory all to hell...

Two things happened from what I can tell. Pistons 3 & 4 were rubbing the cylinder walls and the rear crank bearing failed. If those two things are related or caused by poor workmanship, are completely unknown to me at this time.

[wndsrfr]

Do you know what the rear thrust was set to? Having it set overly tight is the first thing that comes to mind.

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I'm thinking that this is a very likely possibility. The machine shop could absolve themselves of any responsibility & then charge you again for any more work.
That said let's look ahead....
Consider doing it yourself. That's the beauty of the Type 4.
Take the crank to a good LOCAL machinist. They can get that rear journal cleaned up and turn it undersized if necessary. Put in a new set of bearings & put it back together. Minor scuffing of the piston is not a major concern as long as its not galled and the cylinder isn't scored. Then drive it like you stole it!

[Han Solo]

Do you know what the rear thrust was set to? Having it set overly tight is the first thing that comes to mind.

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I'm thinking that this is a very likely possibility. The machine shop could absolve themselves of any responsibility & then charge you again for any more work.

Rear thrust is also called end play, correct? If so, Brothers did set the end play. I found three shims at the rear of the crank.

[yeahmag]

Three shims only indicates the correct number of shims, not that the end play was set correctly.

[Han Solo]

Three shims only indicates the correct number of shims, not that the end play was set correctly.

That's one procedure that isn't covered in the Type 4 Bug Me Video with Jake Raby. They refer to the preceding Type 1 video and just show Jake checking the flywheel with a dial indicator. Omitting that procedure is quite lame and one of the few issues I have with that tutorial.

[Han Solo]

I'm stripping the crank down to see if I can get a local machine shop to get that bearing off. I tried heating it with a torch and twisting with a large pipe wrench but no luck. I won't be getting any form of compensation from Brothers. So unless I can get a deal from another shop, I'm doing this on my own.

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[GK914]

[quote name='Han Solo' date='Dec 27 2014, 06:19 PM' post='2127121']
I'm stripping the crank down to see if I can get a local machine shop to get that bearing off. I tried heating it with a torch and twisting with a large pipe wrench but no luck. I won't be getting any form of compensation from Brothers. So unless I can get a deal from another shop, I'm doing this on my own.


Sorry to hear the motor thing turned out so badly. That really sucks. I hope the seats get some good use before too long. I read the whole thread and you deserve the good deal on the seats after what you did to that car. Brought it back to life. Good luck with the motor.