 Mallory Unilite with Mallroy AL6 Wiring help needed, Electrical gurus please help me - Meltdown today. |
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| wndsnd |
 Oct 13 2013, 03:12 PM
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#1
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You wanted a horse, but got a goat. Nobody wants a goat....  Group: Members Posts: 2,861 Joined: 12-February 12 From: North Shore, MA Member No.: 14,124 Region Association: North East States   |
73 1.7 that I converted to carbs. Set the car up for a better engine someday, but I wanted this to be my sort out from the restoration.
Got the 1.7 in yesterday, and the starter turns it over fine. I have the fuel pump jumper per world instructions, (III on board diagram below) and that works fine. So now I am on to checking out the new iginition system. Here is what I am working with.  The small red wants to be switched. I am taking it off the relay board pin next to the fuel pump jumper. (I on board diagram below) To trouble shoot the ignition, the instructions say, disconnect the coil to dist post. Disconnect the large White wire that is used to trigger the ignition. Turn the ignition switch on, and hold the coil wire 1/4 inch from ground, and take the White trigger and ground. A large spark should jump from the coil wire to ground if the ignition is working properly. So I set this up and turn on the ignition and I see smoke ....... The insulation melted off the small black all the way back to the AL6. Since I used that pick up from the relay board that is switched, but not fused, I must have created a good short. So my question is, what about the wires that previously went to the old distributor off the relay board.  #7 which is on my car a large solid black I tied this in to the small black and the coil negative. Did this create the short. Should this wire be just insulated off? Is there a better place to pick up a switch hot that would be fused than terminal (I)? The #1 black/purple, I spliced into the yellow for the tach. I also took the ballast resister out of the circuit while trouble shooting all this. I hope I didn't completely toast the AL6 John |
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Replies(1 - 8)
| ejm |
Oct 13 2013, 05:12 PM
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#2
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I can see the light at the end of the tunnel Group: Members Posts: 2,692 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 224 Region Association: None |
QUOTE So my question is, what about the wires that previously went to the old distributor off the relay board. None of the original wires went to the distributor but two went to the coil. QUOTE #7 which is on my car a large solid black I tied this in to the small black and the coil negative. Did this create the short. Yes QUOTE Is there a better place to pick up a switch hot that would be fused than terminal (I)? The black wire that went to the coils #15 terminal is all the switched power you need. The diagram doesn't call for a fuse and the factory didn't fuse the coil circuit. The Mallory draws very little current and the MSD only uses that to know the key is on, the heavy draw is thru the big red wire. |
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| wndsnd |
Oct 13 2013, 05:33 PM
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#3
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You wanted a horse, but got a goat. Nobody wants a goat.... Group: Members Posts: 2,861 Joined: 12-February 12 From: North Shore, MA Member No.: 14,124 Region Association: North East States |
Hi Ed
Thank you for your help. So should I splice #7 and AL small red togethrr with black from Mallory coil. And take itthem off "I" |
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| wndsnd |
Oct 13 2013, 05:42 PM
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#4
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You wanted a horse, but got a goat. Nobody wants a goat.... Group: Members Posts: 2,861 Joined: 12-February 12 From: North Shore, MA Member No.: 14,124 Region Association: North East States |
Like this?
Where do I put the ballast resister?  |
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| ejm |
Oct 13 2013, 07:10 PM
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#5
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I can see the light at the end of the tunnel Group: Members Posts: 2,692 Joined: 3-February 03 From: Massachusetts Member No.: 224 Region Association: None |
QUOTE Where do I put the ballast resister? None is shown in the diagram and if you are using a coil Mallory considers compatiable with the AL6 there should be no need for one. |
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| wndsnd |
Oct 13 2013, 07:40 PM
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#6
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You wanted a horse, but got a goat. Nobody wants a goat.... Group: Members Posts: 2,861 Joined: 12-February 12 From: North Shore, MA Member No.: 14,124 Region Association: North East States |
Coil was matched to the 6AL. I think it was the Unilite's instructions that said use the ballast.
Anyway I wired the two reds to the old black that went to + 15 on old coil and stilldead. I might have cooked something. I will mess with it tomorrow. Also I am probabky missing something to drive the tach. I doubt it accepts square wave inputs. Thanks Ed. |
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| rhodyguy |
Oct 14 2013, 07:45 AM
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#7
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Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,082 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
with my 6al i use andy's pump jumper wire method at the relay board to the ground post near the board.
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| wndsnd |
Oct 14 2013, 08:38 AM
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#8
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You wanted a horse, but got a goat. Nobody wants a goat.... Group: Members Posts: 2,861 Joined: 12-February 12 From: North Shore, MA Member No.: 14,124 Region Association: North East States |
Hi Kevin,
I just yanked all the electronic stuff out and put in an old 022 Dist and a Bosch Blue. Now, I can't find a stinking rotor for it. And, I can't find another disty I had lieing around, so I should have at least 3 rotors around the shop and nothing. Frustration...... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/headbang.gif) |
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| 7275914911 |
Oct 14 2013, 02:09 PM
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#9
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Hummmm!!! Group: Members Posts: 756 Joined: 7-May 08 From: Mid-South Member No.: 9,028 Region Association: South East States 
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QUOTE(wndsnd @ Oct 13 2013, 08:40 PM)  I might have cooked something. Unlite Module. Don't ask me how I would know about that ?? They aren't nearly as expensive as they once were is a good thing... Also the tach output should be the same as original if installed correctly, I believe. Black wire at coil? Good Luck Ken |
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