Yet another starter issue Options

[saigon71]

That jumper of the yellow wire at the seat belt relay is starting to sound suspect. Here is an easy way to check it. Using a small straight pin, push the pin in the yellow wire from the key switch, take a reading. Then push the pin in after the splice and take another reading. They should be the same. If not, the splice is bad.
Tom

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)

Success! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

There were multiple problems in the starting system. Wanted to rule out the seat belt logic early on so I ran a jumper wire between the yellow wires and shrink wrapped the entire joint. Went on to find the ignition switch cracked...replaced - no dice. Ran new electrical cables - still no better. Took the relatively new Optima battery in today for a load test - looked great

Used Tom's pin method on both sides of my splice. Under load, there was about .7 volt difference. Splice wasn't heavy enough of a gauge wire to handle the current. Hadn't even given it thought.

Car is firing up with the key every time now.

Thanks for the responses...appreciate the help. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)

[jimkelly]

nice to hear you got the problem licked.

i'm torn between, butt crimp connectors, and soldering, for wire joining?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4y3iCWDpjE8

jim

[Cap'n Krusty]

nice to hear you got the problem licked.

i'm torn between butt crimps and soldering?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4y3iCWDpjE8

jim

Soldering automotive wiring isn't the best of ideas. Bosch, VW/Audi, and Porsche specifically tell you NOT to do it. Use quality non-insulated butt connectors of the appropriate diameter and cover the joint with shrink tubing. Use a proper crimping tool, too.

The Cap'n

[Dave_Darling]

An expert can get solder joints that are appropriate for automotive applications. There are few of us who are experts at that level--and if you have to ask, you're not. For the rest of us, crimped splices are better, assuming you're using a good crimper that applies the right amount of force (hint: It's a lot!) and uses the correct shaped die--usually the one that makes the ends of the crimp lugs curl around and push back into the wire.

The "universal electrical tool" type crimpers you can get at every FLAPS everywhere are very much not the correct tool for the job.

--DD

[Tom]

So glad YOU were able to find and fix it. Sometime we all need a little help!
Tom

[saigon71]

Starter issues returned. It got to the point that I couldn't even get it started with a push button start switch while on a road trip.

After doing some research on 914world, I bought a new hi-torque mini starter from this ebay seller:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-911-MINI-S...=item4ac9f460b4

It came with a shim. The factory starter bolts weren't long enough to use the shim, so I installed it without.

Oil leaks have kept me from testing it on the road, but it seems to be working well, cranking every single time. My next step is McMarks relay kit if this doesn't work.

[jimkelly]

as for shims, I don't understand. the only need I can see for shims is if the starter plunger pops out too far, thus past the flywheel teeth. if plunger does not pop out far enough, I see no fix for this.

it is certainly ideal I assume if teeth on starter and teeth on flywheel line up perfectly.

I have a renegade hi torque starter (brand model unknown - could be Chinese for all I know) on my v8 but I am definitely going to add a relay, probably a ford unit like mark henry uses, as this unit looks more heavy duty and weather resistant. as I want to ensure my starter is getting full power when in operation.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...2&hl=relays