914/6, valve adjustment Options

[bcheney]

I am planning to adjust the valves in my 6 soon. Anyone have tips on a good procedure to follow? My car is a 6 conversion using an original 6 engine and flywheel. My lower valve covers are turbo type that have been shaved so they can be easily removed. Just looking for some tips since this will be the first time I am adjusting the valves in this car!

[GeorgeRud]

I sometimes wonder if the easiest procedure isn't:

1. Remove engine and transaxle
2. Adjust valves
3. Reinstall engine and transaxle

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[SLITS]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) almost.

Besides doing the adjustment by the Factory method, which requires over and under many times you can do the backside of the cam method. Since you can actually see the position of the follower on the cam you adjust those valves that are on the heel of the cam, rotate, and do more. This saves starting on the V1 marker, #1 in firing position and adjusting the intake & exhaust and then moving to V2 for the next cylinder in firing order, etc,. It's hard to see the marks on the pulley unless you have cut a hole in the firewall.

[Luke M]

It's a PITA to do. Like stated if you can't see the timing marks on the flywheel , the front pulley through a hole in the firewall, or the dizzy you have some work cut out for yourself. I've done the valve adjustment several times on a factory 6 and it's a pain even with the flywheel properly marked (I high lighted the marks prior to installing the trans one time). In the future I plan on dropping the engine and trans to do the valves adjustment. I'm getting older and this up and down under the car thing is a pain unless you have a lift. It's 3 bolts holding the engine/trans in , the cv bolts, fuel lines, some wires need to be disconnected, and oil lines which you would need to remove one anyway to drain the oil. I can have the engine and trans on the ground in less the 1 hr. Plus I would clean up the engine bay while I'm there and fix any future/potential problems. Don't forget to do the adjustment with the engine stone cold and drain the oil. Either way engine in or out of the car it can be done. It depends on which route you want to take. Some will agree and some not with the engine drop. The guys that will agree will be like me as I'm not as flexible as I use to be. Getting old sucks plus I don't like being under the car any longer then I have to be.

[billh1963]

I sometimes wonder if the easiest procedure isn't:

1. Remove engine and transaxle
2. Adjust valves
3. Reinstall engine and transaxle

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

I had my 2.2 6 resealed a couple of months ago and the mechanic told me he was going to do the valve adjustment at the same time while the engine was out.

He said that he will drop the engine again the next time the valves need adjustment. To him it's actually faster (saves me $$) plus it's a good time to go over the engine and check out/fix any leaks or other issues.

[6freak]

I am planning to adjust the valves in my 6 soon. Anyone have tips on a good procedure to follow? My car is a 6 conversion using an original 6 engine and flywheel. My lower valve covers are turbo type that have been shaved so they can be easily removed. Just looking for some tips since this will be the first time I am adjusting the valves in this car!

if you can grow a third arm that would be good (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) drain/drip for 3 days


...first time i did it i double and triple checked myself befor putting it all back togather! and take your time
theres some handy tools just for this task !look into it...its not a tuff job just time consuming and a little messy if ya dont let it drip ...

[Cap'n Krusty]

One uses the SAME method as with the 4s. Read up on it in my post found in the "classic" forum. Difficult in the car, but easier than pulling the driveline. Buy yourself a remote starter harness and button.

The Cap'n

[bcheney]

One uses the SAME method as with the 4s. Read up on it in my post found in the "classic" forum. Difficult in the car, but easier than pulling the driveline. Buy yourself a remote starter harness and button.

The Cap'n

Is this the remote deal your talking about...I had it in my stash from about 20 years ago! I've never used it. How do you connect the leads?

[Cap'n Krusty]

One to the battery post of the starter, one to the pin where the yellow (switch) wire connects.

The Cap'n

[914itis]

What are the the pros and cons to cutting a hole on the firewall and bolt a remove able plate for easy access? Not just for valve adjustment, replacing alternator belts and even the alternator.

[bcheney]

One to the battery post of the starter, one to the pin where the yellow (switch) wire connects.

The Cap'n

Thanks

[bcheney]

What are the the pros and cons to cutting a hole on the firewall and bolt a remove able plate for easy access? Not just for valve adjustment, replacing alternator belts and even the alternator.

Pro's... a little less hassle...better physical and visual access.

Con's... destroys originalty of the car (not a concern if it's a 6 conversion) and you still have to take out the backpad behind your seats whenever you want access and that takes a little time.

Not sure an access hole helps with Alternator removal/install. You can solve the alternator remove/install issue by customizing your engine shroud so that the tap half can be removed without having to remove the carbs/intakes.