1976 914 2.0, The project continues on Options

[colingreene]

This is my current problem with my wheels.
I took some wheel polish to it but no dice.

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Heres some quick spots of rust i could find, however i did not get to investigate more fully.
I also pushed out one of my axels. the drivers side however will not budge.
Ill need to come up with a solution for that.....

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http://i821.photobucket.com/albums/zz135/S...zps7db2f31e.jpg

Also this might not be the best picture ever but this is the race set from one of my trans main bearings

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looks pretty borked to me.

[carr914]

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[colingreene]

Got a chance to work on the car some today, Took quite some doing to get the drivers side axel out. So much so that i need a new stub axle. If anyones got one let me know.
it was really stuck. anyway i got pictures of most of the stuff you all were asking about so ill throw those up now.

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Drivers side rear suspension pick up

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Passengers side rear suspension pick up

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[euro911]

Hell hole looks pretty good, actually (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)

Remove the sound deadening pad from the firewall in the engine bay and check for rust behind it especially near the bottom.

While the drive train is out, inspect and replace (as needed) the flexible brake hoses, e-brake cables and fuel lines (SS are highly recommended)*


* Two members here manufacture SS fuel lines: Robert (Rotary'14) is local in So Cal and will be at the G&R Swap Meet (you should try to attend this event if you can), and Chris (Racer Chris) of Tangerine Racing.

[rick 918-S]

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[Dr Evil]

I am surprised that no one noticed.....those transmissions are for a bug. Not 901, not Porsche. You gonna need to buy a core and start there.

[Dr Evil]

Did your shop note what type of tranz those are?

$1725 from a shop is not outrageous.
Latest parts costs and usual wear items:
1st slider - $500
1st teeth - $150
1st band - $88
2nd teeth - $140
2nd band - $88
2nd/3rd slider - $185
Small int plate bearing - $250
Large int plate bearing - $315

Without labor, for new parts, you are looking at a total of = $1716 before labor.

This is only one sites prices, and there is a little variation. Using inspected and verified good used parts saves you a butt load. This is how I keep build costs down.

[euro911]

Maybe I should have said, $1700 is outrageous to some of us. I'm sure some folks fork that kind of $ out, then again, some of us are spoiled by folks like you, Doc, or THOMAS, etc. who rebuild our trannys for pennies on the dollar (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

[colingreene]

I know that they have Vw trans in that picture. That case is my 901 case though.
its a side shift as it should be.
Anyway when and where is the swap meet?
Ill pull the insulation when i get to it. I just wasent in any real hurry to pull it off then have to buy new ones.
I did plan on the brake lines and new wheel bearings after what i just had to do to get the stub axle out.
I know i need a new drivers side parking brake cable also, only two wires are holding it out of the whole cable.
The fuel lines.... is that a pain to change?
I can make them myself but id love to find a way to change them.

[euro911]

I know that they have Vw trans in that picture. That case is my 901 case though.
its a side shift as it should be.

I didn't pay too much attention to the case at first, but I did notice the axles and swing-arm tubes weren't 914. The disassembled case in the pic IS definitely a bug/bus trans. A 901 case has a different throw-out bearing arm arrangement and a vent near the bell housing. Did you remove the drive train?, or was it already out the car when you got it? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Here's a 901 case (minus the nose cone)




Anyway when and where is the swap meet?

G&R thread, Click here


Ill pull the insulation when i get to it. I just wasent in any real hurry to pull it off then have to buy new ones.

If you use a wide putty knife (plastic is good) to remove the pad (slowly and carefully), you should be able to re-glue it in if it's still in good condition.


I did plan on the brake lines and new wheel bearings after what i just had to do to get the stub axle out.

Stub axles shouldn't be hard to pull out, but the hubs can be a pain. Have you tried PB Blaster?

Heat usually does the trick to get the hubs out of the rear wheel bearings. Be aware that the bearings get destroyed when you remove the hubs, so if the bearings are OK, rethink removing the hubs (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) (bearings are expensive too).


I know i need a new drivers side parking brake cable also, only two wires are holding it out of the whole cable.

You might want to replace the engine bay seals 'while you're in there' ... they're critically important for air-cooled motors. Mark (Mikey914) of 914Rubber.com sells a replacement seal kit. You might want to check out all the products they make before placing an order.


The fuel lines.... is that a pain to change?
I can make them myself but id love to find a way to change them.

Here's a recent thread on that very subject Click here

[Dr Evil]

Maybe I should have said, $1700 is outrageous to some of us. I'm sure some folks fork that kind of $ out, then again, some of us are spoiled by folks like you, Doc, or THOMAS, etc. who rebuild our trannys for pennies on the dollar (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)

Ah, ya. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

I have never made $1700 off of a non-modified rebuild, and that includes some really messed up ones that needed work, but were stock. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif) Cheaper without sacrificing quality, that is the way to go.

[colingreene]

As I said in my first post the Previous owner had a clutch disk delaminate
so he took the motor out and the trans appart and then left it that way for 10 plus years.
I get to re assemble it now.

[colingreene]

Took my motor apart.
Its bad news folks.
I found a few quarts of water in the case.
and that the lifters were showing signs of going away.
the rods even have rust on them.

I was considering going to a crank with counter weights and if im going to bother to do that why not add some stroke to it right?

anything i should know.
from what i have gathered i need to either do new pistons with a type 1 22mm piston and run those rods or
get arp rods for my 2.0L rods
My dad worked in a machine shop in college and says I cannot bore the stock cyls i have to 96mm i would need new cyls also.
and ill have to pick out a cam but ill probably just call engle and ask them what they think.

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[euro911]

A good machine shop can bore stock 94mm (2.0L) Mahle cylinders out to 96mm, no problem.

IIRC, this is a '76, right? If you plan to build it larger than 2056, the stock FI may not work well at all. Also, you may not be able to smog it with an aftermarket FI system (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

I would stick with stock T-4 components, but others have built some awesome engines utilizing some exotic parts (for pre-'76 cars). Again, you might want to think about the smog test aspect before going down that road (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

[colingreene]

Lets just say, im not too worried about the emissions stand point.
my Cyls are marked KS on the inside of the pistons so they are not Mahles
Ive got one of the pistons fully cleaned up.
Im semi considering keeping the piston and barrels i have now if they look ok.
my dad seems really suspect of cutting the extra 2mm out of the existing ones citing problems with cooling, warping and head sealing surface.
I see his logic in that reliability should not be sacrificed.
What bore/stroke makes 2056 its 96x71 right?

[rhodyguy]

fwiw, CMUs, also known as concrete blocks aren't the safest substitute for jacks stands. be careful.

[billh1963]

fwiw, CMUs, also known as concrete blocks aren't the safest substitute for jacks stands. be careful.

Good catch! Go buy some jack stands...they aren't expensive

[euro911]

Lets just say, im not too worried about the emissions stand point.
OK

my Cyls are marked KS on the inside of the pistons so they are not Mahles
Kolbenschmidt, another OEM part, good quality

Ive got one of the pistons fully cleaned up.
Im semi considering keeping the piston and barrels i have now if they look ok.
my dad seems really suspect of cutting the extra 2mm out of the existing ones citing problems with cooling, warping and head sealing surface.
I see his logic in that reliability should not be sacrificed.
The 2056 is quite reliable, no overheating, warping, etc., but it's your call. Stick with rebuilding it to 2.0L and drive it for now. Spend a little extra time and $ and have the rotating assembly balanced and you have a reliable peppy engine for a reasonable cost.

What bore/stroke makes 2056 its 96x71 right?
Yes

[colingreene]

Third try now.

If the KS stock Cyls are good quality why swap to a larger piston?
I want a counter balanced crank so why not add stroke to it.
usually thats a bigger bang for the buck then a set of pistons.
im happy to do new push rods and re do the geometry to make it all work.
but if you guys think i need to do pistons ill give it a shot also.
its just my stock crank is pretty maingey looking.
and the 78mm crank is a staple in the Rat motors as well as with the type 4 guys.
I fully plan on balancing everything for the motor that turns.

Went to the swap meet today, saw some really nice cars
Nifty 912, really spotless silver 911 and the PMB car was nice.
I also liked the two 914-6s i saw a black one and a tangerine one.

thanks to Bruce for the stub axle i needed.
I may need a relay board cover also.

Is their anyway that i can fit a early bumper to a late car? I am just not a huge fan of the late bumpers.

[Kirmizi]

Bumper back-dating instructions right here: (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...c=8404&st=0