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> Question about Auxiliary Air Regulator Valve (Porsche or Bosch replacement), Porsche part number: 022 906 045
tumamilhem
post Nov 14 2013, 01:55 PM
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I think I found the problem to my high idle and it seems my AAR valve is stuck/gone bad. They are no longer available but rebuilt ones are as are Bosch replacements.

Has anybody bought the rebuilt AAR valve from Auto Atlanta and if so, are you happy with it? For my car 1974 2.0 w/D-jet, here is the link: http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Rebuilt...B022906045.html

If you have a Bosch replacement, which part number is it? I have been told a couple different numbers: 280 40 007 and 0 280 140 101 (mind you, this is for a 1974 2.0).

Would it be better to get a new Bosch replacement or a rebuilt original from AA? Also found some rebuilt ones on Samba.

Thanks in advance for your input! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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luskesq
post Nov 14 2013, 04:00 PM
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I don't have a 2.0 so I can't help you there. Check out Anders site (http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm#troubleshoot)and scroll down the the AAR discussion and follow his suggestions, they worked for me.

I'd certainly put in a WTB add in the classifieds before going to AA.

Keith
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JawjaPorsche
post Nov 14 2013, 04:03 PM
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Blast a can of pb blaster into the inlet, shake it, let it dump out...keep doing it untill all the rust falls out, and dirt.

You can run two wires to it for testing.
Power lead is obvious, body needs to be grounded.

No air should blow through when it's closed, if it does, let it cool down and clean it again....needs to be one to clean, so cold..

Remove it and PB it or WD40 it. Placing it in the freezer for an hour then apply 12V. Repeat until it fully opens & closes. It will operate w/o power but takes longer to seal off when engine heat is it's only source
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bulitt
post Nov 14 2013, 04:11 PM
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If you contact a Bosch distributor with the number I would be amazed they are NLA. Darn near every car with their F.I. from 70-80's used this part.
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SLITS
post Nov 14 2013, 04:24 PM
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The one for the 1.8 LJet will work as well. You just have to hook up a power wire and ground as it has a two spade terminal connection.
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Jeffs9146
post Nov 14 2013, 04:32 PM
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I have heard if you put it in a plastic bag with enough PB to cover it and let is soak for a few days before testing that people have had good luck!
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Cap'n Krusty
post Nov 14 2013, 05:00 PM
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QUOTE(bulitt @ Nov 14 2013, 02:11 PM) *

If you contact a Bosch distributor with the number I would be amazed they are NLA. Darn near every car with their F.I. from 70-80's used this part.


Be amazed. They've been obsolete for years, if not decades. The only application was for D-jetronic on 914s and T4s. The L-jet version is readily available and can be made to fit.

The Cap'n
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TheCabinetmaker
post Nov 14 2013, 06:21 PM
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Cap'n, does the airflow amount differ between the two?
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turk22
post Nov 14 2013, 08:07 PM
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guy on the samba has about a dozen for sale:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1123061
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Java2570
post Nov 14 2013, 08:27 PM
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I bought one from Henry (Hencar on Samba) about a year ago, still working so far.....
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Drex
post Jun 15 2023, 06:57 AM
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Auto Atlanta list a new AAR at $345/09
and the core at $200

does this mean your cost is $145.09
if you send in your old AAR?

thanks

D Rex
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76-914
post Jun 15 2023, 07:25 AM
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Couldn't help but notice that 3 deceased members posted one after another and each pasted in consecutive years. Miss ya Ron. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif) Looks like it but call and verify 1st. Do try soaking in a solvent for at least 24 hr's then throw it in the freezer overnight then hit it w/ 12v. Watch the cylinder to see if it moves. If it moves even a tiny bit rinse and repeat until full movement. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beerchug.gif)
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brant
post Jun 15 2023, 07:34 AM
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I noticed that too

Some of my favorite people on this old thread

And started by the one world member I have blocked
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JeffBowlsby
post Jun 15 2023, 07:54 AM
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QUOTE(Drex @ Jun 15 2023, 05:57 AM) *

Auto Atlanta list a new AAR at $345/09
and the core at $200

does this mean your cost is $145.09
if you send in your old AAR?

thanks

D Rex


This is how it works. Using the numbers you posted, it would be $345.09 +$200. core, or $545.09 out of pocket. Submitting a rebuildable core gets you a $200. refund, or $345.09 total cost.

If you don't return a core then its $545.09 total cost.
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StarBear
post Jun 15 2023, 08:23 AM
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QUOTE(JawjaPorsche @ Nov 14 2013, 06:03 PM) *

Blast a can of pb blaster into the inlet, shake it, let it dump out...keep doing it untill all the rust falls out, and dirt.

You can run two wires to it for testing.
Power lead is obvious, body needs to be grounded.

No air should blow through when it's closed, if it does, let it cool down and clean it again....needs to be one to clean, so cold..

Remove it and PB it or WD40 it. Placing it in the freezer for an hour then apply 12V. Repeat until it fully opens & closes. It will operate w/o power but takes longer to seal off when engine heat is it's only source

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) Will solve the issue virtually every time. I’m 2 for 2.
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ThinAir
post Jun 26 2023, 03:02 PM
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Ian Carr did a video on rebuilding the AAR.

https://youtu.be/cBdjLrxvBIM
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emerygt350
post Jun 26 2023, 03:18 PM
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Be absolutely sure it actually is the problem.
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