I think I found the problem to my high idle and it seems my AAR valve is stuck/gone bad. They are no longer available but rebuilt ones are as are Bosch replacements.

Has anybody bought the rebuilt AAR valve from Auto Atlanta and if so, are you happy with it? For my car 1974 2.0 w/D-jet, here is the link: http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Rebuilt...B022906045.html

If you have a Bosch replacement, which part number is it? I have been told a couple different numbers: 280 40 007 and 0 280 140 101 (mind you, this is for a 1974 2.0).

Would it be better to get a new Bosch replacement or a rebuilt original from AA? Also found some rebuilt ones on Samba.

Thanks in advance for your input!

I don't have a 2.0 so I can't help you there. Check out Anders site (http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm#troubleshoot)and scroll down the the AAR discussion and follow his suggestions, they worked for me.

I'd certainly put in a WTB add in the classifieds before going to AA.

Keith

Blast a can of pb blaster into the inlet, shake it, let it dump out...keep doing it untill all the rust falls out, and dirt.

You can run two wires to it for testing.
Power lead is obvious, body needs to be grounded.

No air should blow through when it's closed, if it does, let it cool down and clean it again....needs to be one to clean, so cold..

Remove it and PB it or WD40 it. Placing it in the freezer for an hour then apply 12V. Repeat until it fully opens & closes. It will operate w/o power but takes longer to seal off when engine heat is it's only source

If you contact a Bosch distributor with the number I would be amazed they are NLA. Darn near every car with their F.I. from 70-80's used this part.

The one for the 1.8 LJet will work as well. You just have to hook up a power wire and ground as it has a two spade terminal connection.

I have heard if you put it in a plastic bag with enough PB to cover it and let is soak for a few days before testing that people have had good luck!

Be amazed. They've been obsolete for years, if not decades. The only application was for D-jetronic on 914s and T4s. The L-jet version is readily available and can be made to fit.

The Cap'n

Cap'n, does the airflow amount differ between the two?

guy on the samba has about a dozen for sale:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1123061

I bought one from Henry (Hencar on Samba) about a year ago, still working so far.....

Auto Atlanta list a new AAR at $345/09
and the core at $200

does this mean your cost is $145.09
if you send in your old AAR?

thanks

D Rex

Couldn't help but notice that 3 deceased members posted one after another and each pasted in consecutive years. Miss ya Ron. Looks like it but call and verify 1st. Do try soaking in a solvent for at least 24 hr's then throw it in the freezer overnight then hit it w/ 12v. Watch the cylinder to see if it moves. If it moves even a tiny bit rinse and repeat until full movement.

I noticed that too

Some of my favorite people on this old thread

And started by the one world member I have blocked

This is how it works. Using the numbers you posted, it would be $345.09 +$200. core, or $545.09 out of pocket. Submitting a rebuildable core gets you a $200. refund, or $345.09 total cost.

If you don't return a core then its $545.09 total cost.

Will solve the issue virtually every time. I’m 2 for 2.

Ian Carr did a video on rebuilding the AAR.

https://youtu.be/cBdjLrxvBIM

Be absolutely sure it actually is the problem.