problem with fuel pump |
|
Porsche, and the Porsche crest are registered trademarks of Dr. Ing. h.c. F. Porsche AG.
This site is not affiliated with Porsche in any way. Its only purpose is to provide an online forum for car enthusiasts. All other trademarks are property of their respective owners. |
|
problem with fuel pump |
era vulgaris |
Nov 20 2013, 08:18 AM
Post
#1
|
J is for Genius Group: Members Posts: 982 Joined: 10-November 13 From: Raleigh, NC Member No.: 16,629 Region Association: South East States |
What voltage am I supposed to see on the red wire connected to the fuel pump?
With the key in ACC position, I've currently got 0V on both terminals of the pump, as well as continuity with ground on both terminals of the pump. Is this an indication of a dead pump, a dead pump relay, or a wiring short? Thanks! |
76-914 |
Nov 20 2013, 10:04 AM
Post
#2
|
Repeat Offender & Resident Subaru Antagonist Group: Members Posts: 13,502 Joined: 23-January 09 From: Temecula, CA Member No.: 9,964 Region Association: Southern California |
acc position? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) don't think we have those. you should have presence of voltage the first 1.5 seconds after the key is turned to the "on" position. After that it goes off until the engine starts.
|
type47 |
Nov 20 2013, 10:08 AM
Post
#3
|
Viermeister Group: Members Posts: 4,254 Joined: 7-August 03 From: Vienna, VA Member No.: 994 Region Association: MidAtlantic Region |
.... you should have presence of voltage the first 1.5 seconds after the key is turned to the "on" position. After that it goes off until the engine starts. Unless he has L-Jet or maybe carbs. If the OP of this wants time efficient answers to their questions, they need to supply a lot more info, ie, MY, type of fuel system (D-Jet, L-Jet, carbs, other...) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) best if the info is put in their signature (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) location info could bring out some local 914'ers who could help |
era vulgaris |
Nov 20 2013, 10:48 AM
Post
#4
|
J is for Genius Group: Members Posts: 982 Joined: 10-November 13 From: Raleigh, NC Member No.: 16,629 Region Association: South East States |
acc position? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) don't think we have those. you should have presence of voltage the first 1.5 seconds after the key is turned to the "on" position. After that it goes off until the engine starts. Sorry, just got the car recently. "On" position then. I'm guessing I shouldn't have continuity with ground on both terminals though, right? .... you should have presence of voltage the first 1.5 seconds after the key is turned to the "on" position. After that it goes off until the engine starts. Unless he has L-Jet or maybe carbs. If the OP of this wants time efficient answers to their questions, they need to supply a lot more info, ie, MY, type of fuel system (D-Jet, L-Jet, carbs, other...) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/poke.gif) best if the info is put in their signature (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif) location info could bring out some local 914'ers who could help I've got D-jet. I'm pretty new to 914's so I'm still figuring a lot of this stuff out. Location info is over on the left under my name. Basically the car has stopped running and I'm trying to figure out why. Engine cranks but doesn't fire up. Just trying to rule out the possibilities. |
rhodyguy |
Nov 20 2013, 11:17 AM
Post
#5
|
Chimp Sanctuary NW. Check it out. Group: Members Posts: 22,080 Joined: 2-March 03 From: Orion's Bell. The BELL! Member No.: 378 Region Association: Galt's Gulch |
pull one injector and leave fuel line in place. place inj in jar. have someone crank engine. look for fuel in jar.
|
JStroud |
Nov 20 2013, 11:25 AM
Post
#6
|
Senior Member Group: Members Posts: 1,463 Joined: 15-January 11 From: Galt, California Member No.: 12,594 Region Association: Northern California |
When you turn the key on you should hear the pump run for a second then shut off, if you don't hear it run, check the relay panel in the engine compartment, there is a fuse and a relay that control the fuel pump, the relays get corroded and sometimes just need the contacts cleaned.
Also have you verified you have spark, put an extra plug in a plug wire ground the electrode and crank the engine, any spark? Hope this helps, Jeff |
Cap'n Krusty |
Nov 20 2013, 11:33 AM
Post
#7
|
Cap'n Krusty Group: Members Posts: 10,794 Joined: 24-June 04 From: Santa Maria, CA Member No.: 2,246 Region Association: Central California |
STOP! Go here: http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/djetparts.htm
Read it. Do the tests. Report back. FWIW, the injector flow answer offered above isn't really a good place to start because it depends on the following (untested) things: Battery voltage. Ignition switch. Main EFI power relay. Fuel pump relay. Fuel pump fuse. Fuel pump. Trigger points. A functional injector. Correctly routed fuel lines. Fuel in the tank. Clear fuel tank screen. Clear fuel filter. The Cap'n |
era vulgaris |
Nov 20 2013, 02:52 PM
Post
#8
|
J is for Genius Group: Members Posts: 982 Joined: 10-November 13 From: Raleigh, NC Member No.: 16,629 Region Association: South East States |
STOP! Go here: http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/djetparts.htm Read it. Do the tests. Report back. Exactly the sort of thing I was looking for! Thanks! I'll test the pins on the ECU and see what I find. I'd already gone through the relay board and cleaned all the contacts. Everything in there looked good. I do hear the fuel pump for a second when I turn the key, so I guess that means it probably isn't the problem. The car had been running, and running well. Then it began refusing to start when it was warm, but started fine when it was cold. Now it doesn't start at all. |
r_towle |
Nov 20 2013, 03:12 PM
Post
#9
|
Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
test your Cylinder Head Temp Sensor (CHT) per the instructions for your year and your part number on the Djet holy site.
rich |
era vulgaris |
Nov 20 2013, 05:36 PM
Post
#10
|
J is for Genius Group: Members Posts: 982 Joined: 10-November 13 From: Raleigh, NC Member No.: 16,629 Region Association: South East States |
test your Cylinder Head Temp Sensor (CHT) per the instructions for your year and your part number on the Djet holy site. rich Just had a chance to test my CHT. It reads 5.3K with 49 degree F ambient temp. Seems like that might be in the ballpark based on the Djet site, or am I wrong? I'll test the rest of the connections before the weekend when I have more time. |
r_towle |
Nov 20 2013, 05:39 PM
Post
#11
|
Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Every CHT is different and I don't want to go look it up.
You test it when hot and cold...but for now cold is fine. See the chart on the holy site |
r_towle |
Nov 20 2013, 05:40 PM
Post
#12
|
Custom Member Group: Members Posts: 24,574 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Taxachusetts Member No.: 124 Region Association: North East States |
Check the basics, do you have spark?
Do you have fuel? Check for 12vdc at the coil with key on. Check for spark at point by removing the cap and rotor, key on, use a screw driver to open and close the points. Do they spark? Check for spark at the plug, hold plug with body of plug grounded, crank engine. Check for fuel, pull an injector and put it in a glass baby food jar, crank engine. |
era vulgaris |
Nov 21 2013, 03:27 PM
Post
#13
|
J is for Genius Group: Members Posts: 982 Joined: 10-November 13 From: Raleigh, NC Member No.: 16,629 Region Association: South East States |
Got it running! Thanks for the help!
Unfortunately my idle speed is now around 2K rpm, and turning the adjustment screw on the throttle body does little to nothing. Is this the sign of a vacuum leak? The car also has a vicious oil leak with a steady dribble coming from the corner of the oil cooler that's just above the oil filter. It doesn't seem to be coming from the oil pressure switch which I've seen suggested in other threads. Is this likely an oil cooler seal gone bad? |
Dave_Darling |
Nov 21 2013, 06:45 PM
Post
#14
|
914 Idiot Group: Members Posts: 14,986 Joined: 9-January 03 From: Silicon Valley / Kailua-Kona Member No.: 121 Region Association: Northern California |
2K idle is definitely a decent-sized vacuum leak.
Clean around the pressure switch with a rag, then let it leak some more, then take another clean rag to it and see if there's oil around the sender. The cooler seals can leak. The filter can leak, especially if some cheap (orange [did I say that out loud? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif) ]) filter left a seal on the filter flange. Oil gallery plugs can come out, but that generally results in all of the oil that was inside the engine rapidly becoming oil on the floor, instead of a steady dribble. --DD |
Lo-Fi Version | Time is now: 18th May 2024 - 04:06 AM |
All rights reserved 914World.com © since 2002 |
914World.com is the fastest growing online 914 community! We have it all, classifieds, events, forums, vendors, parts, autocross, racing, technical articles, events calendar, newsletter, restoration, gallery, archives, history and more for your Porsche 914 ... |