What voltage am I supposed to see on the red wire connected to the fuel pump?

With the key in ACC position, I've currently got 0V on both terminals of the pump, as well as continuity with ground on both terminals of the pump. Is this an indication of a dead pump, a dead pump relay, or a wiring short?

Thanks!

acc position? don't think we have those. you should have presence of voltage the first 1.5 seconds after the key is turned to the "on" position. After that it goes off until the engine starts.

Unless he has L-Jet or maybe carbs. If the OP of this wants time efficient answers to their questions, they need to supply a lot more info, ie, MY, type of fuel system (D-Jet, L-Jet, carbs, other...) best if the info is put in their signature location info could bring out some local 914'ers who could help

Sorry, just got the car recently. "On" position then. I'm guessing I shouldn't have continuity with ground on both terminals though, right?



I've got D-jet. I'm pretty new to 914's so I'm still figuring a lot of this stuff out. Location info is over on the left under my name.

Basically the car has stopped running and I'm trying to figure out why. Engine cranks but doesn't fire up. Just trying to rule out the possibilities.

pull one injector and leave fuel line in place. place inj in jar. have someone crank engine. look for fuel in jar.

When you turn the key on you should hear the pump run for a second then shut off, if you don't hear it run, check the relay panel in the engine compartment, there is a fuse and a relay that control the fuel pump, the relays get corroded and sometimes just need the contacts cleaned.

Also have you verified you have spark, put an extra plug in a plug wire ground the electrode and crank the engine, any spark?

Hope this helps,
Jeff

STOP! Go here: http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/djetparts.htm
Read it. Do the tests. Report back.

FWIW, the injector flow answer offered above isn't really a good place to start because it depends on the following (untested) things: Battery voltage. Ignition switch. Main EFI power relay. Fuel pump relay. Fuel pump fuse. Fuel pump. Trigger points. A functional injector. Correctly routed fuel lines. Fuel in the tank. Clear fuel tank screen. Clear fuel filter.

The Cap'n

Exactly the sort of thing I was looking for! Thanks!
I'll test the pins on the ECU and see what I find.

I'd already gone through the relay board and cleaned all the contacts. Everything in there looked good. I do hear the fuel pump for a second when I turn the key, so I guess that means it probably isn't the problem.

The car had been running, and running well. Then it began refusing to start when it was warm, but started fine when it was cold. Now it doesn't start at all.

test your Cylinder Head Temp Sensor (CHT) per the instructions for your year and your part number on the Djet holy site.

rich

Just had a chance to test my CHT. It reads 5.3K with 49 degree F ambient temp.
Seems like that might be in the ballpark based on the Djet site, or am I wrong?

I'll test the rest of the connections before the weekend when I have more time.

Every CHT is different and I don't want to go look it up.
You test it when hot and cold...but for now cold is fine.
See the chart on the holy site

Check the basics, do you have spark?
Do you have fuel?

Check for 12vdc at the coil with key on.
Check for spark at point by removing the cap and rotor, key on, use a screw driver to open and close the points.
Do they spark?

Check for spark at the plug, hold plug with body of plug grounded, crank engine.

Check for fuel, pull an injector and put it in a glass baby food jar, crank engine.

Got it running! Thanks for the help!

Unfortunately my idle speed is now around 2K rpm, and turning the adjustment screw on the throttle body does little to nothing. Is this the sign of a vacuum leak?

The car also has a vicious oil leak with a steady dribble coming from the corner of the oil cooler that's just above the oil filter. It doesn't seem to be coming from the oil pressure switch which I've seen suggested in other threads. Is this likely an oil cooler seal gone bad?

2K idle is definitely a decent-sized vacuum leak.

Clean around the pressure switch with a rag, then let it leak some more, then take another clean rag to it and see if there's oil around the sender.

The cooler seals can leak.

The filter can leak, especially if some cheap (orange [did I say that out loud? ]) filter left a seal on the filter flange.

Oil gallery plugs can come out, but that generally results in all of the oil that was inside the engine rapidly becoming oil on the floor, instead of a steady dribble.

--DD