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> Best Subaru transaxle setup, How is this for a start?
ruby914
post Feb 2 2014, 01:29 PM
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In all my searching, I still have not figured out what this part is all about?
I have not found it in any of the PDF manuals.
It caps the output shaft, so the shaft could not function with it. It has no splines and nothing but the oil seal holds it in the case. The end is ground like it is held in by the propeller shaft but the prop shaft could not function with it in place (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ???
So, with it in place the rear wheels could not be driven. Is this off of a FWD car?
I try to turn the gears in the center diff but they don't turn. I am thinking they do when the diff is engaged? Then, I have heard chatter about welding differentials?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


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messix
post Feb 2 2014, 01:43 PM
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something that was just stuffed in there to keep oil from leaking out while the tranny was removed and moved about?
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J P Stein
post Feb 2 2014, 02:23 PM
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"Best"? It depends.
Britian is putting about 375hp at the wheels.....with 12 inch slicks to boot....yeah, tires (traction) enter the picture.
He went with a 930 trans. Good for 700 hp, I'm told.

If you use 195/60 tires you can get by with a little less. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

BTW, he also uses a combo throw out bearing that is a hydraulic actutor in one......forget who makes it....but not cheep but it really symplifies the installation.
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76-914
post Feb 2 2014, 04:45 PM
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QUOTE(ruby914 @ Feb 2 2014, 11:29 AM) *

In all my searching, I still have not figured out what this part is all about?
I have not found it in any of the PDF manuals.
It caps the output shaft, so the shaft could not function with it. It has no splines and nothing but the oil seal holds it in the case. The end is ground like it is held in by the propeller shaft but the prop shaft could not function with it in place (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ???
So, with it in place the rear wheels could not be driven. Is this off of a FWD car?
I try to turn the gears in the center diff but they don't turn. I am thinking they do when the diff is engaged? Then, I have heard chatter about welding differentials?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Hey Mike, what's the other side look like?
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ruby914
post Feb 2 2014, 10:27 PM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Feb 2 2014, 02:45 PM) *

QUOTE(ruby914 @ Feb 2 2014, 11:29 AM) *

In all my searching, I still have not figured out what this part is all about?
I have not found it in any of the PDF manuals.
It caps the output shaft, so the shaft could not function with it. It has no splines and nothing but the oil seal holds it in the case. The end is ground like it is held in by the propeller shaft but the prop shaft could not function with it in place (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif) ???
So, with it in place the rear wheels could not be driven. Is this off of a FWD car?
I try to turn the gears in the center diff but they don't turn. I am thinking they do when the diff is engaged? Then, I have heard chatter about welding differentials?
(IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Hey Mike, what's the other side look like?

Here it is Kent.
The polished center fits into the center drill hole. so something would have to be between the two.
It's an excellent fitting cover, almost too good but I am thinking Messix thoughts are correct. Just something that fit.


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a914622
post Feb 10 2014, 08:02 PM
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Its a suby shim/bucket for the valve train.

Ya just to keep the oil from leaking out.

jcl
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ruby914
post Feb 16 2014, 01:10 AM
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QUOTE(76-914 @ Jan 11 2014, 07:11 AM) *

QUOTE(jimkelly @ Jan 11 2014, 06:08 AM) *

one question is do you want a hydraulic or cable actuated clutch assy.

ian says some hydraulic transaxles can be retrofitted to cable.

Let me answer that one for him. Hydraulic! Everything else is updated, why not the clutch. Besides, I think it would be more difficult than to adapt the Suby to a clutch cable than to convert your foot pedal layout to include a MC.

Mike, if it is a good tranny that's a good price. And if it wasn't "launched" too many times the center differential has value. Why? Because that is what STI owners like to do; launch them that is. So they tear up center diff's a lot. Amongst other parts. Remember that these come off cars that have the pee waddling shit drove out of them. If any doubts, call me. I have a guy that sells them for $999 but he stands behind them 100%. He's a parts supplier for Outfront Motor Sports. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/shades.gif)


So, all the Suby guys are launching there cars and trashing the phase 1 center differentials. If a Suby owner trashes his phase 1 diff are the parts that I need to cut out and weld together still good?
Is their junk my gold? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/idea.gif)

It seems that I have the phase II center diff that they all want.
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Chris H.
post Feb 16 2014, 09:10 AM
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Great luck Mike! Just make sure you charge enough for it...when I posted my diff on NASIOC for $250 I go so many PM's right away I knew I didn't price it high enough. Hope you recoup most of the $$$ with it!
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ruby914
post Feb 16 2014, 10:29 AM
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ Feb 16 2014, 07:10 AM) *

Great luck Mike! Just make sure you charge enough for it...when I posted my diff on NASIOC for $250 I go so many PM's right away I knew I didn't price it high enough. Hope you recoup most of the $$$ with it!


Yes Chris, thanks, that's great to know. That would pay for the Bremar or Subaru gears adapter.
But what about the buys that broke there phase 1 diff.
For them it's junk. It seems like they would be breaking gears. The splines I need should be fine. I would think I could buy their junk core for next to nothing.
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Chris H.
post Feb 16 2014, 11:36 AM
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So you're making your own diff locker?

I really don't know what the inside of one of those suckers looks like, but your logic is pretty solid. Haven't heard of any spline issues. Maybe try to get ahold of one before you sell yours. I agree, they can't be worth squat once they are toasted. Local trans shop or NASIOC should get you one for next to nothing...

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ruby914
post Feb 16 2014, 11:45 AM
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QUOTE(Chris H. @ Feb 16 2014, 09:36 AM) *

So you're making your own diff locker?

I really don't know what the inside of one of those suckers looks like, but your logic is pretty solid. Haven't heard of any spline issues. Maybe try to get ahold of one before you sell yours. I agree, they can't be worth squat once they are toasted. Local trans shop or NASIOC should get you one for next to nothing...


I was thinking the same, to get one before I sell mine, but now I don't see a reason to get one before I sell. I am looking into this on Nasioc now.
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ruby914
post Feb 28 2014, 12:26 PM
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I have found that the phase 1 diffs don't fail like the phase II.
$250 is a good selling price. I will not ask more.
I gave up looking for an old trashed phase 1.
I have a crashed phase II on it way, $20 for the trouble + shipping.
We'll see how this works out.
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