I've been thinking about swapping out the 901 for a Suby trans. The part I have always been hung up on is the path of least resistance. Best combo of trans, Magic flanges, CVs, axles, stub axles.... I was going to ask Ian but wanted to do a little a little re-research first. I didn't get far and found this.
https://losangeles.craigslist.org/sgv/pts/4281511883.html
Is this what I am looking for? Seems like a good price

I should add that I have an 02 WRX in the flared car. The 4 lug hubs are drilled out for 5 lugs.

one question is do you want a hydraulic or cable actuated clutch assy.

ian says some hydraulic transaxles can be retrofitted to cable.

That's the transmission you would need, I understand 05-08 are stronger, but that one should work fine, and that's an amazing price, I had been looking for a while, didn't find anything under a $1k. Might want to go check it out before its gone.


Jeff

Let me answer that one for him. Hydraulic! Everything else is updated, why not the clutch. Besides, I think it would be more difficult than to adapt the Suby to a clutch cable than to convert your foot pedal layout to include a MC.

Mike, if it is a good tranny that's a good price. And if it wasn't "launched" too many times the center differential has value. Why? Because that is what STI owners like to do; launch them that is. So they tear up center diff's a lot. Amongst other parts. Remember that these come off cars that have the pee waddling shit drove out of them. If any doubts, call me. I have a guy that sells them for $999 but he stands behind them 100%. He's a parts supplier for Outfront Motor Sports.

That looks like a good trans and a good price. FYI it's probably a 2002-2004 since it has stub axles. Means you save a few bux not having to convert it like the newer ones. As Jeff said the newer ones might be a bit better but they tend to be a LOT more expensive. I'd have gone with an 02-04 had I not stumbled onto my 06 for $800.

For the axles what I would do is use Subie CVs inboard (you need "female" ones, they are easy to find and cheap). Then you just can buy Ians axles or have yours resplined, and outers are stock 914 cv or you can do 944 for extra protection.

What parts are required to install a Subaru tranny into a type 4 powered car?

Is the shifter cable operated, and is there a kit someone could buy?
How does it hang off the rear?

Clutch and pressure plate?

Hydraulic clutch kit?

seems for less than 2k a really stout tranny could be put in place.

Lastly, at least for now....
Can a Subaru transmission be put in a rear engine car?
Do they spin the right way?

Thanks guys,
I am waiting on a call back.
The need to swap to a STI setup tells me the owner was pushing it.
That may be the reason for the great price.
It gives me the feeling that it works but the owner is not sure for how long.
I may feel better If the seller was parting out a car that hit a tree.
You get what you pay for....
Kent, If this one does not work out, I may be giving you a ring soon.
I don't think I want the head ache of hydraulic but I don't recall how people adapted the cable. I think I saw the same trans with the inboard CVs for a little more.

I think I saw a Subaru to type 4 thread here not long ago.
My car has WRX power to a 901 with a cable shift now.
I don't think it will be difficult to remake the linkage at the transmission end.

I have the KEP adapter, clutch and flywheel. I was thinking the clutch and flywheel could stay with this trany but after reading Thenewwazoo, post 26 from Britain Smith's, Subaru Engine Conversion Wiki, I am not sure
Note to self, Here is a link: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...10990&st=20

ian's comment...

"To answer your question about Subaru cable clutch transmissions: most Subaru transmissions still have the pivot point cast in the bellhousing at least up until 2004. One would just need to buy the correct parts from Subaru to convert it, probably under 100$ to convert it to cable from hydro."

By rear engine, you mean Bugs, 911's, and VW Buses?
No, they don't spin the correct way, but reverse cut ring and pinion gears are avaialble from http://www.subarugears.com/.

The teener is not rear engine and the Subaru transmission turns the correct direction without a ring and pinion flip.

Ok, I picked up that transmission.
$600, It was missing the for the clutch release lever shaft. I will try to make one tonight. Last night I made the back cover.
Here is a photo of the new 1/4" cover. Only took about 1 hour to make. Traced, dupe punched, cut with a band saw, drilled and cleaned up the band saw cut with a hand router with a rotary file bit then found a 45 degree bit to chamfer all edges. Climb mill cut everything with the hand router gave it the milled look.
I am thinking about masking it off and spraying it with latex paint and try a little chem-mill etch.

One thing of the things I found that I don't understand is this cap on the out put shaft? If this was AWD why have this capping the shaft?

As far as the locking adapter, I an not completely clear how to make or install it.
This differential is different than I saw in (I think it was JPNovac's) thread, on how to convert. It looks like Bremar took down there online install directions, If they ever had them online. I am also looking at a blank PDF from dunebuggyarchives.com I find Factory Five has a lot of good information but not finding what I need. Still digging...

http://www.dunebuggyarchives.com/static/at..._conversion.pdf

Sweet! If you want to MAKE a diff locker look at this thread...

Diff locker DIY

If you want to buy one Ian sells them

Diff Lock

I think I might have some instructions on how to install it somewhere. If you buy Ian's he will tell you.

Far out! Thanks Guys.
This link to Dunebuggy works and I didn't know Ian was making the diff locker.

You may know this but the diff locking "spool" goes under all this stuff which is not used. On the left in the pic is the center diff, should pull right out, worth ~$250-$300 NASIOC. The spool locks the diff just under that:

Click to view attachment


Here's what the diff locker looks like installed:

Click to view attachment

The second section of the trans cover is removed to make it easier to tighten the nut (locking spool is on the left).

Yes, I see. Ian's locking spool is a no brainer for this trans. Sent Ian an e-mail.
Looks like Kent and I are looking for axles and CV's. I think, I would like a larger CV than the 914 CV's on the out side. Seems 944's may be the way to go?
Kent, what are you thinking??
I'm still up in the air about hydraulic or cable.

I'm starting with the 914 1/2 shafts/CV's. If they start snapping on me then I'll go bus axles/944CV's/5lug/brake upgrade/etc. (Reminds me of my 56 Chevy. Put a 409 in it and it ate tranny's. Stronger tranny transferred it's destructive force to the rear end. Went with a stouter Pontiac rear end and started tearing lug nuts.) Besides, DB refers to the 914 CV's as fuses. Go w/Suby trans and the hydraulic set up. I had to clearance the trunk for the slave but only 1/2" in. Yours may be different because we have different style cradles.

Kent,
I am thinking of starting with the 914 1/2 shafts and CV's as well but am not fond of the fuse part. Said another way is weak link.
It's a start that will get me back on the road.
I am sure I will have to mod the trunk. My trans mounts located my motor and trans in the car. I am not sure where Ian's cradle has everything located. I am thinking not more than 1.5" different FWD and AFT and there is no telling up and down. I am sure his axles should work and got a plan for anything that needs adjusting. One thing that I see that will need to be changed is the exhaust
Something that may help me fix my exhaust issues is chopping the center diff housing. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RXEUSVSpGHg

Looks like a lot of extra work, Mike. Why not buy the lockout then cut a piece of .050" alum plate to make the cover. It's easily traced out using the section that you throw away as a guide.

I will get the lockout as soon as I hear back from Ian. I made the cover in no time. It will still need to hold fluid so I used 1/4 plate. It's unused space that only holds extra lube. The part I don't like would be cutting off 2 of the 4 threaded bosses for the rear trany mount. I am still a long way from that point.

BTW, just took a drive, gotta love this California summer winter.

In all my searching, I still have not figured out what this part is all about?
I have not found it in any of the PDF manuals.
It caps the output shaft, so the shaft could not function with it. It has no splines and nothing but the oil seal holds it in the case. The end is ground like it is held in by the propeller shaft but the prop shaft could not function with it in place ???
So, with it in place the rear wheels could not be driven. Is this off of a FWD car?
I try to turn the gears in the center diff but they don't turn. I am thinking they do when the diff is engaged? Then, I have heard chatter about welding differentials?

something that was just stuffed in there to keep oil from leaking out while the tranny was removed and moved about?

"Best"? It depends.
Britian is putting about 375hp at the wheels.....with 12 inch slicks to boot....yeah, tires (traction) enter the picture.
He went with a 930 trans. Good for 700 hp, I'm told.

If you use 195/60 tires you can get by with a little less.

BTW, he also uses a combo throw out bearing that is a hydraulic actutor in one......forget who makes it....but not cheep but it really symplifies the installation.

Hey Mike, what's the other side look like?

Here it is Kent.
The polished center fits into the center drill hole. so something would have to be between the two.
It's an excellent fitting cover, almost too good but I am thinking Messix thoughts are correct. Just something that fit.

Its a suby shim/bucket for the valve train.

Ya just to keep the oil from leaking out.

jcl

So, all the Suby guys are launching there cars and trashing the phase 1 center differentials. If a Suby owner trashes his phase 1 diff are the parts that I need to cut out and weld together still good?
Is their junk my gold?

It seems that I have the phase II center diff that they all want.

Great luck Mike! Just make sure you charge enough for it...when I posted my diff on NASIOC for $250 I go so many PM's right away I knew I didn't price it high enough. Hope you recoup most of the $$$ with it!

Yes Chris, thanks, that's great to know. That would pay for the Bremar or Subaru gears adapter.
But what about the buys that broke there phase 1 diff.
For them it's junk. It seems like they would be breaking gears. The splines I need should be fine. I would think I could buy their junk core for next to nothing.

So you're making your own diff locker?

I really don't know what the inside of one of those suckers looks like, but your logic is pretty solid. Haven't heard of any spline issues. Maybe try to get ahold of one before you sell yours. I agree, they can't be worth squat once they are toasted. Local trans shop or NASIOC should get you one for next to nothing...

I was thinking the same, to get one before I sell mine, but now I don't see a reason to get one before I sell. I am looking into this on Nasioc now.

I have found that the phase 1 diffs don't fail like the phase II.
$250 is a good selling price. I will not ask more.
I gave up looking for an old trashed phase 1.
I have a crashed phase II on it way, $20 for the trouble + shipping.
We'll see how this works out.