Stripped Rocker Stud, Can I Heli-Coil w/out Removing Head??? Options

[d7n7master]

Hi All,
This is a follow-up to my rant on the JCS "QUALITY" Air Cooled Engine I bought about 8 months ago. Yes, I know NOW what I didn't know then - & YES JAKE - I effed up.
I'm way behind my money / time curve & at this point I could easily justify a Raby 2270...
My rant today is based on the JCS long-block I bought. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/alfred.gif)
First, I noticed that the heads weren't vented. Fine. Whatever. I vented the heads.
Second, when I pulled the v/c's to prepare for adding the vents I couldn't help but notice that the builder had used nylock self locking nuts to attach the rocker shafts. AND, two of the studs that the "nylock self locking nuts" attached to had insufficient thread protrusion.
In other words, the nylock portion of the nut was ABOVE the stud. So I went to my local flaps & bought slim-line grade 8.8 M7-1.00 nuts. Today I R&R'ed the nuts - one at a time. Loosened each rocker's nut about a 1/2 turn to relieve tension first. All went well until I got to one nut that when I removed it - the stud started coming out with the nut. I stopped & attempted to re-tighten the nut to see if the stud would screw back in. It did.
I installed the new nut. When I attempted to re-torque the nut, the stud turned in the head & I couldn't pull 120 in. lbs. (10f.p.) - My first re-torque point...
So the effing head is stripped - or the stud. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/finger.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/finger.gif) on my NEW JCS "QUALITY" rebuild (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/barf.gif)
And, BTW - This engine has not been run by me. But, JCS documentation indicates that it was run & evaluated for "quality" prior to shipment. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/flipa.gif)
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My question:
Any reason why I can't install a heli-coil & THEN get this POS in my car???
I'm so pissed at the crappy workmanship I've seen so far, all I want to do is install the BIOTCH & run the 'effing $hit out of it while my piggy$$$bank saves up for the Raby engine I should have bought - (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

[d7n7master]

Here'a a pic of the stud pissin' me off - (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mad.gif) I mean requiring replacement. options.
1.) Heli-Coil?
2.) JB Weld?
3.) ??????? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/blink.gif)

[Mueller]

I've done the Heli-Coil for those studs with the motor in in the car (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) (not recommended...)

If you are dead nutz careful, then yes, you can install an insert with the heads still attached to the motor...the key part is making sure the drill for the insert follows the same path as the stripped out hole.

[Trekkor]

Sorry about the grief...

How's the condition of the threads in the head. Take the rocker assembly off and peek at 'em. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/rolleyes.gif)

I think using the heli-coil in place would be very easy.
Just be sure to shop vac it to get all the shavings. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif)

I thought the stud bottoms out in the head?
Shouldn't it seat?

KT

[ejm]

QUOTE

So the effing head is stripped - or the stud.

Which is it? The threads in the head are M10x1.5 and could be helicoiled...most likely the M7 threads on the stud or nut stripped. The stud is p/n 021 101 397, you won't find that at flaps.

btw...that valve cover gasket wasn't seated right either...

[Mueller]

I doubt it's the stud, the aluminum should fail before the stud does.....whatever you do, don't drill too far or you'll be needing new heads for sure (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/headbang.gif)

[John]

I agree with Mueller and trekkor, I would look at the threads in the head and I would carefully Helicoil it.

But as they have already stated, be very careful to make sure you drill your hole so that it lines up with the rocker shaft, and please don't go too deep.

If it were me, I would probably pull the head off to do it since it is out of the car anyway (but that's just me).

Good luck.

[d7n7master]

I appreciate - as always - your consumate 914-board wisdom. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wink.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/pray.gif)

I haven't removed the "questionable" rocker assy. yet because as I was doin' the doo, I loc-tited the new nutz all around as I r & r'ed the p.o.s. ny-locs.

When I got to the one stud that wouldn't hold torque, I stopped & came in here to rant... & drink (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)
I'm gonna let the loc-tite dry in the nut 'til tomorrow. Then, based on your wisdom & the simple fact that I'm on a mission & I have to do what has to be done, I'll remove the rocker assy. & inspect for damage. Hopefully the loc-tite I applied to the nut will hold 'til the stud comes out in my hand.

At this point, I'm just guessing that it's got to be the alum. head that the threads came away from 'cause I'm pretty sure that the stud is s/steel. Tomorrow will tell...

I still have the shop-vac set-up to SUCK!!! - from drilling & tapping the heads for the vents - so that should come in handy.

Many years ago I was a jet mechanic. And believe me, I've installed my fair share of helicoils, over-sized fasteners, SLUG bushings & re-installed the fasteners & safety wired the buggers while being suspended on a tail-stand way up in the air on the flight ramp. It's quite an experience - especially on a windy day.

Hopefully I still have the skills to pull this off - dooh - in my garage.

I'll make certain to check the hole depth before setting my drill stop.
Then I'm goin' in. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/drooley.gif)

& thanks everybody. I love this damn car.
Dollar for $$$ you can't find more fun than this without goin' to two wheeled rockets
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) - & I don't do that too well anymore.