Painting the trunks/engine bay/underside/cabin, POR-15 and leave black? Options

[boxsterfan]

I have had excellent luck with my hell hole and the exhaust heat shield which I POR 15'd about 4 years ago. No issues whatsoever. I used their Marine Clean degreaser and their Metal Ready prep as well - and I followed the directions completely.

Since I believe and have my own proof that POR-15 works well with the proper preparation, over the past 4 weeks I removed all the tar out of the interior, wire brushed it down to bare metal (or light rust), and coated the floor with POR 15. After drying for a week plus, I applied 1-2 layers of a Dynamat equivalent - Hush Mat - and a layer of Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro on the floor and the firewall.

Test drive tomorrow or Wednesday....

Thanks for the feedback. It would be great to hear what you think about the Hush Mat/Second Skin combinations in your car. I'll be looking to sound proof my ride as much as as possible considering the noisy Type IV out back.

[malcolm2]

I have heard the good and the bad stories, and I have used POR-15. What I have found is that if you FOLLOW THE INSTRUCTIONS to the letter, you will get great results. There is a post above, complaining about removing the rock hard POR-15. That is how it is supposed to work. I say try it, then you will know. I basically painted my whole car with the stuff. inside the gas tank too. Here are some shots:

my trunk after a patch job. the bubbles are either the "metal ready" or the "marine clean" working. This is my 1st time I welded in 30 years, so don't be critical. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/piratenanner.gif) I also used the POR patch as a seam sealer, also highly recommend that product.


POR patch is black.



I ruffed it up with a light sanding then painted over the seam sealer. It will look even better when the carpet is on top of it..... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/aktion035.gif)

[rjames]

I used Por15 on the inner floor pans after stripping them and replacing the driver' side rear portion and doing the necessary prep-work. I also used it on the underside of the replaced floor pan piece and followed it up with 3m rock guard (or whatever it's called. 7 years later the it has all held up perfectly. No complaints.

[McMark]

If you really want to do it, strip it to metal, epoxy primer, real catalyzed paint, then undercoating. None of these things come in a rattle can, and most require specialized equipment to apply.

However a scrub down with a wire brush to remove loose material and a new application of undercoating should be sufficient. Pressure washing with solvent to get rid of oil/grease would be prudent as well.

I think the bottom line for me, is that there is no magic potion - no perfect cure. Everything has a up and a down side and the best way to prevent future rust is to limit exposure to water, and more importantly eliminate areas where water can sit trapped. It's not splashing through a puddle that rusts our cars. It's the pile of dirt behind the rocker that soaks up water and holds it against the metal. It's the loose undercoating/seamsealer that allows water to wick in behind them where that moisture will sit for a long time eating at the metal. Remove those hiding places, and limit exposure and the car won't rust appreciably for your lifetime.