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> Sound deadening material
partwerks
post Mar 10 2014, 03:17 AM
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I wonder which form would be better?

http://www.amazon.com/DEI-050220-Boom-Mat-...dening+material

or

http://www.amazon.com/FatMat-Self-Adhesive...dening+material
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Tedman5
post Mar 10 2014, 03:37 AM
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I used Fat Mat in mine. I chose it because it was cheaper in price and basically the same thing.
How much material are you looking for? I may have enough left over from the large roll I purchased.
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CptTripps
post Mar 10 2014, 06:53 AM
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What you're showing is an apple and an orange.

You'll need a LOT of that spray to make it effective. I'm not sure it'll ever be what you're looking for either.

I bought something like this.

eBay Sound Deadening Material

Also: You'll use it up a lot faster than you think. 50sq ought to be enough, but you can get 100' for the same price as your link above.
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boxsterfan
post Mar 10 2014, 08:56 AM
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For anybody that has completed soundproofing their teener, how did it turn out for you? How much reduction in noise (measured or seat of the pants feeling)?
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Mark Henry
post Mar 10 2014, 10:34 AM
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The stuff CptTripps posted works OK, just as good as the more expensive stuff like Fatmat. OK...but not great.

What I have found works the best (and is dirt cheap) is spray contact cement and closed cell foam rubber floor mats. Closed cell will not absorb water.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=closed+cell+...920&bih=979

I shit you not, for floors you could embed this in rocker guard, but it is a PITA as you have to weight it till it drys.
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914pipe
post Mar 10 2014, 06:30 PM
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I'm considering this....

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthr...9&showall=1
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rsrguy3
post Mar 10 2014, 07:39 PM
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Used it on dads 56 Ford years ago and it works and is cheap. The trick is it needs to be warm to stick well. I recommend using 3m contact on the metal first.
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martinef1963
post Mar 10 2014, 08:54 PM
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Has anyone had any experience with GT Mat?

www.gtmat.com
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malcolm2
post Mar 10 2014, 09:00 PM
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QUOTE(nukepipe @ Mar 10 2014, 07:30 PM) *

I'm considering this....

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthr...9&showall=1



On a hot summer day, won't your car smell like tar?
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Shindog1961
post Mar 11 2014, 12:09 AM
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Several people in hot climates like Phoenix and South Texas report no odors.
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rsrguy3
post Mar 11 2014, 05:15 AM
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Unlike the original tar the Peel and stick is beutle based same as dyna mat.
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saigon71
post Mar 11 2014, 05:24 AM
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I wanted a quiet cabin (by 914 standards). I am running a stock d-jet engine.

I went with rattle trap, a thicker version of Fat Mat from the same manufacturer. Bought 50 sq ft from an ebay seller. That was plenty for the floor, longs and inner firewall.

Also installed an aftermarket sound pad from 914rubber.com on the engine side of the firewall.

I haven't ridden in many 914's, so I can't draw any comparisons...but for me it was a good solution.
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bandjoey
post Mar 11 2014, 11:01 AM
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New cars use2msterials for sound proofing. Rubber and foil. I'm not the engineer but I'm told it has to do with not just sound blocking (penetration) but also metal vibration creating additional noise.

I used 2layers of Lowes peel and stick rubber roofing material. Thin and about 12" wide rolls. That Was covered with A/C silver foil tape.

No odors. 2nd summer and still stuck and in good shape. It definately quieted down the noise. Inexpensive alternative to Dynomat. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)
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effutuo101
post Mar 11 2014, 12:01 PM
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Lizardskin sound and thermal reduction. followed by fat mat on the floors and in the doors.
we will see once I hit the road...
http://www.lizardskin.com/
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wes
post Mar 12 2014, 01:10 PM
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Im not one of those that needs a total stock car, that is Id like a bet more comfort and to bring it somewhat up to date wile still looking sort of stock so one of the things Im ready for is a quitter interior. Im wondering what happens to the value of your car once you have glued the sound deadener to the interior of your car as it sounds as though its pretty much going to be a real job for anyone to ever take it off in the future. So has any one any Idea of what happens to the value, dose it help or hinder?
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CptTripps
post Mar 12 2014, 01:56 PM
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QUOTE(wes @ Mar 12 2014, 03:10 PM) *

So DOES any one HAVE any idea of what happens to the value, DOES it help or hinder?


I'll take a crack at that...

Unclear. It's all a matter of taste and preference. The material we're using now is a TON better than what they used in the 70s when these cars were being built initially. It also depends on who you're selling it to. My last car was a 73' that I did a pretty decent job of restoring all the way. I covered the entire interior with Herculiner, and then primed/painted, and covered that with Dynamat. Added about 15lbs to the whole car, but I think it helped the sound a bit, and certainly the water resistance of everything.

If you're building a car solely for resale...you probably shouldn't do it.
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wes
post Mar 12 2014, 02:32 PM
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Thanks, sounds like most other areas of the car, a bit more usable but not enough change to destroy the car except for the serious collector.

Ha Ha,, Part 2 if I was building for just for resale Id be screwed a long time ago as Im not really keeping track off $$ but Im pretty sure I past the value mark before the rust and paint was done!
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jrrhdmust
post Mar 14 2014, 09:31 AM
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I like second skin audio, following the sounddeadenershowdown.com methodology. It worked well in a 2000 F250 Diesel and a 67 Cougar. I used just dynamat in a 71 Superbeetle and it sucked.
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boxstr
post Mar 14 2014, 10:00 AM
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I have used the peel and seal roof patch material, same as the other more exspensive products. Same thing just no name brand stenciled all over the backing.
Try it you will be glad you did, so will your wallet.
Craig at CAMP
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7TPorsh
post Mar 14 2014, 10:09 AM
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I bought some matting awhile ago and found out after I gt it that it is almost impossible to cut and trim.

Is this Peel and Seal easy to shape?
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