I wonder which form would be better?

http://www.amazon.com/DEI-050220-Boom-Mat-...dening+material

or

http://www.amazon.com/FatMat-Self-Adhesive...dening+material

I used Fat Mat in mine. I chose it because it was cheaper in price and basically the same thing.
How much material are you looking for? I may have enough left over from the large roll I purchased.

What you're showing is an apple and an orange.

You'll need a LOT of that spray to make it effective. I'm not sure it'll ever be what you're looking for either.

I bought something like this.

eBay Sound Deadening Material

Also: You'll use it up a lot faster than you think. 50sq ought to be enough, but you can get 100' for the same price as your link above.

For anybody that has completed soundproofing their teener, how did it turn out for you? How much reduction in noise (measured or seat of the pants feeling)?

The stuff CptTripps posted works OK, just as good as the more expensive stuff like Fatmat. OK...but not great.

What I have found works the best (and is dirt cheap) is spray contact cement and closed cell foam rubber floor mats. Closed cell will not absorb water.

https://www.google.ca/search?q=closed+cell+...920&bih=979

I shit you not, for floors you could embed this in rocker guard, but it is a PITA as you have to weight it till it drys.

I'm considering this....

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthr...9&showall=1

Used it on dads 56 Ford years ago and it works and is cheap. The trick is it needs to be warm to stick well. I recommend using 3m contact on the metal first.

Has anyone had any experience with GT Mat?

www.gtmat.com

On a hot summer day, won't your car smell like tar?

Several people in hot climates like Phoenix and South Texas report no odors.

Unlike the original tar the Peel and stick is beutle based same as dyna mat.

I wanted a quiet cabin (by 914 standards). I am running a stock d-jet engine.

I went with rattle trap, a thicker version of Fat Mat from the same manufacturer. Bought 50 sq ft from an ebay seller. That was plenty for the floor, longs and inner firewall.

Also installed an aftermarket sound pad from 914rubber.com on the engine side of the firewall.

I haven't ridden in many 914's, so I can't draw any comparisons...but for me it was a good solution.

New cars use2msterials for sound proofing. Rubber and foil. I'm not the engineer but I'm told it has to do with not just sound blocking (penetration) but also metal vibration creating additional noise.

I used 2layers of Lowes peel and stick rubber roofing material. Thin and about 12" wide rolls. That Was covered with A/C silver foil tape.

No odors. 2nd summer and still stuck and in good shape. It definately quieted down the noise. Inexpensive alternative to Dynomat.

Lizardskin sound and thermal reduction. followed by fat mat on the floors and in the doors.
we will see once I hit the road...
http://www.lizardskin.com/

Im not one of those that needs a total stock car, that is Id like a bet more comfort and to bring it somewhat up to date wile still looking sort of stock so one of the things Im ready for is a quitter interior. Im wondering what happens to the value of your car once you have glued the sound deadener to the interior of your car as it sounds as though its pretty much going to be a real job for anyone to ever take it off in the future. So has any one any Idea of what happens to the value, dose it help or hinder?

I'll take a crack at that...

Unclear. It's all a matter of taste and preference. The material we're using now is a TON better than what they used in the 70s when these cars were being built initially. It also depends on who you're selling it to. My last car was a 73' that I did a pretty decent job of restoring all the way. I covered the entire interior with Herculiner, and then primed/painted, and covered that with Dynamat. Added about 15lbs to the whole car, but I think it helped the sound a bit, and certainly the water resistance of everything.

If you're building a car solely for resale...you probably shouldn't do it.

Thanks, sounds like most other areas of the car, a bit more usable but not enough change to destroy the car except for the serious collector.

Ha Ha,, Part 2 if I was building for just for resale Id be screwed a long time ago as Im not really keeping track off $$ but Im pretty sure I past the value mark before the rust and paint was done!

I like second skin audio, following the sounddeadenershowdown.com methodology. It worked well in a 2000 F250 Diesel and a 67 Cougar. I used just dynamat in a 71 Superbeetle and it sucked.

I have used the peel and seal roof patch material, same as the other more exspensive products. Same thing just no name brand stenciled all over the backing.
Try it you will be glad you did, so will your wallet.
Craig at CAMP

I bought some matting awhile ago and found out after I gt it that it is almost impossible to cut and trim.

Is this Peel and Seal easy to shape?

Closed Cell Yoga Mat. 8$ at Walmart.

I have not tried any of these and am just reading along but from the http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/ site posted above, they seem to have done their homework on the materials. A note about the closed cell foam from that link (again I'm only comparing info in this thread and have no experience in this):

Closed Cell Foam Does Not Absorb or Block Sound
I know people say it does, but it doesn't. It's too light to block anything meaningful. It doesn't absorb sound well for the same reason it doesn't absorb moisture. Combine that with the thickness consideration in the next section and it just doesn't. CCF is a mechanical not an acoustical material. It's a gasket.

Sound deadening is open cell construction.

This stuff is flame retardant:
http://www.parts-express.com/acoustic-soun...tm_campaign=pla

Maybe so, but I'm not ever gluing anything on my floorboards again. It's a trap for moisture, then rust. To each their own. Andy Glued his mat on the back of his carpet. I may go that route.

I just bought Peel and Seal. 100' sq for $109. If it's good enough for Craig, it's good enough for me. It came in a 3'x 33' roll. Cuts easy and sticks down real sweet. A little love with a heat gun overcame our cold spring temps. I bought it at a prifessional roof supply place. Aluminum backed and ready to cut. I'll have plenty to do my doors and any stereo install needs too.

Want to use the Peel n Seal but have read about the asphalt fumes.

Does this stuff smell like the tar pits?

It's not tar, it's buytal. No smell, no fumes. I heated the crap out of it. It's the same stuff as the Dyna Mat as far as I can tell.

Click to view attachment

http://www.mfmbp.com/purchase/store/tabid/...l_and_Seal.aspx


DESCRIPTION
Peel & Seal® is an exclusive laminate of reflective aluminum foil, rugged, cross-linked polymer films, and a thick layer of rubberized asphalt. The asphalt compound adheres to most surfaces and seals around most punctures, forming a protective waterproof barrier. A high-quality release liner is applied to protect the adhesive surface until installation.

Second Skin is AWESOME Stuff.

Very easy to install and works fantastik


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...33&hl=sound

Click to view attachment

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I'm hoping to get something put in this summer, but wondering if I need to just go over the tar on the floor, or remove it first?

If I need to remove it, what tools worked best, and is there any stuff to remove the remainder to get it to adhere?

when you do the floor do you remove the old insulation layer first?

Yes! Don't leave the old tar on there. You will uncover more spots that need some rust proofing attention when you remove the tar too, guaranteed.
I used a heat gun and scraper to easily scrape and peel the tar right up (you don't even need a razor blade scraper but just a flat bladed scraper of some kind once the tar gets hot enough).

You'll be shocked at how easily it comes off. Get it warm with a heat gun, and you'll get 12"x12" sheets of it off in one peel. Took 15min to do the whole floor last time I did one.

I read through the site, very interesting read. I will have to do something with the Teener, Mercedes and Tracker so this thread is very timely!

I went with the Peel and Seal...comes on a roll. Somewhat easy to work with. Sticks like the dickens.

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now the inside...
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The problem with peel and stick, tar sheets, dynamat, fatmat, or anything that is sold that you adhere on top of the floor pan, is that if you have a leak and water gets under there, you are setting up the opportunity for more rust occurring.

The product will work for deadening sound... but will not act as a membrane to protect the floor underneath.

How many of us have cleaned up rust when restoring our floor pans? Even just surface rust?

Just saying...

That all being said... make sure you have good paint, good seam sealant, or a nice encapsulator like POR-15 before applying this stuff!

There will be some residue left. So mineral spirits or turpentine, paper towels and elbow grease will remove the remainder. Then just hit it with acetone to remove any of the turp or spirits before painting. You may not need to deal with the residue if you are simply sticking a new product on.

There are quite a few threads regarding how to deal with the floor boards. Take it down to bare metal and paint with POR15 or an acrylic urethane system - personally, I used POR15 and followed the directions exactly for prep. I think it's safe to then apply Dynamat or one of the cheaper similar products - I used Hushmat in mine.