Sound deadening material Options

[bulitt]

Closed Cell Yoga Mat. 8$ at Walmart.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/ecx.images-amazon.com-13632-1394817441.1.jpg)

[IanS]

I have not tried any of these and am just reading along but from the http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/ site posted above, they seem to have done their homework on the materials. A note about the closed cell foam from that link (again I'm only comparing info in this thread and have no experience in this):

Closed Cell Foam Does Not Absorb or Block Sound
I know people say it does, but it doesn't. It's too light to block anything meaningful. It doesn't absorb sound well for the same reason it doesn't absorb moisture. Combine that with the thickness consideration in the next section and it just doesn't. CCF is a mechanical not an acoustical material. It's a gasket.

[7TPorsh]

Sound deadening is open cell construction.

This stuff is flame retardant:
http://www.parts-express.com/acoustic-soun...tm_campaign=pla

[bulitt]

I have not tried any of these and am just reading along but from the http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/ site posted above, they seem to have done their homework on the materials. A note about the closed cell foam from that link (again I'm only comparing info in this thread and have no experience in this):

Closed Cell Foam Does Not Absorb or Block Sound
I know people say it does, but it doesn't. It's too light to block anything meaningful. It doesn't absorb sound well for the same reason it doesn't absorb moisture. Combine that with the thickness consideration in the next section and it just doesn't. CCF is a mechanical not an acoustical material. It's a gasket.

Maybe so, but I'm not ever gluing anything on my floorboards again. It's a trap for moisture, then rust. To each their own. Andy Glued his mat on the back of his carpet. I may go that route.

[OU8AVW]

I have used the peel and seal roof patch material, same as the other more exspensive products. Same thing just no name brand stenciled all over the backing.
Try it you will be glad you did, so will your wallet.
Craig at CAMP

I just bought Peel and Seal. 100' sq for $109. If it's good enough for Craig, it's good enough for me. It came in a 3'x 33' roll. Cuts easy and sticks down real sweet. A little love with a heat gun overcame our cold spring temps. I bought it at a prifessional roof supply place. Aluminum backed and ready to cut. I'll have plenty to do my doors and any stereo install needs too.

[7TPorsh]

Want to use the Peel n Seal but have read about the asphalt fumes.

Does this stuff smell like the tar pits?

[OU8AVW]

It's not tar, it's buytal. No smell, no fumes. I heated the crap out of it. It's the same stuff as the Dyna Mat as far as I can tell.

[rfinegan]

http://www.mfmbp.com/purchase/store/tabid/...l_and_Seal.aspx


DESCRIPTION
Peel & Seal® is an exclusive laminate of reflective aluminum foil, rugged, cross-linked polymer films, and a thick layer of rubberized asphalt. The asphalt compound adheres to most surfaces and seals around most punctures, forming a protective waterproof barrier. A high-quality release liner is applied to protect the adhesive surface until installation.

[jsayre914]

Second Skin is AWESOME Stuff.

Very easy to install and works fantastik


http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...33&hl=sound

[partwerks]

I'm hoping to get something put in this summer, but wondering if I need to just go over the tar on the floor, or remove it first?

If I need to remove it, what tools worked best, and is there any stuff to remove the remainder to get it to adhere?

[7TPorsh]

when you do the floor do you remove the old insulation layer first?

[IanS]

Yes! Don't leave the old tar on there. You will uncover more spots that need some rust proofing attention when you remove the tar too, guaranteed.
I used a heat gun and scraper to easily scrape and peel the tar right up (you don't even need a razor blade scraper but just a flat bladed scraper of some kind once the tar gets hot enough).

[CptTripps]

You'll be shocked at how easily it comes off. Get it warm with a heat gun, and you'll get 12"x12" sheets of it off in one peel. Took 15min to do the whole floor last time I did one.

[stephenaki]

I have not tried any of these and am just reading along but from the http://sounddeadenershowdown.com/ site posted above, they seem to have done their homework on the materials. A note about the closed cell foam from that link (again I'm only comparing info in this thread and have no experience in this):

I read through the site, very interesting read. I will have to do something with the Teener, Mercedes and Tracker so this thread is very timely! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/beer.gif)

[7TPorsh]

I went with the Peel and Seal...comes on a roll. Somewhat easy to work with. Sticks like the dickens.

[7TPorsh]

now the inside...

[Qarl]

The problem with peel and stick, tar sheets, dynamat, fatmat, or anything that is sold that you adhere on top of the floor pan, is that if you have a leak and water gets under there, you are setting up the opportunity for more rust occurring.

The product will work for deadening sound... but will not act as a membrane to protect the floor underneath.

How many of us have cleaned up rust when restoring our floor pans? Even just surface rust?

Just saying...

That all being said... make sure you have good paint, good seam sealant, or a nice encapsulator like POR-15 before applying this stuff!

[bulitt]

You'll be shocked at how easily it comes off. Get it warm with a heat gun, and you'll get 12"x12" sheets of it off in one peel. Took 15min to do the whole floor last time I did one.

There will be some residue left. So mineral spirits or turpentine, paper towels and elbow grease will remove the remainder. Then just hit it with acetone to remove any of the turp or spirits before painting. You may not need to deal with the residue if you are simply sticking a new product on.

[sgetsiv]

There are quite a few threads regarding how to deal with the floor boards. Take it down to bare metal and paint with POR15 or an acrylic urethane system - personally, I used POR15 and followed the directions exactly for prep. I think it's safe to then apply Dynamat or one of the cheaper similar products - I used Hushmat in mine.