LEDs For Front Turnsignal Bucket Options

[StratPlayer]

Cool

[Spoke]

I'm done with the first and only set of prototype Euro LEDs w/o blanking.

The running lights on this set stays on all the time that parking/head lights are on regardless of the turnsignals. No running light blanking.

I'll sell this one and only Euro w/o blanking prototype set for $85 + $10 shipping (CONUS). Respond to this thread if you're interested and I'll PM you with details.

[Harpo]

I will take them

David

[Nutter965]

Spoke, i'd like to use the US red rear lenses but with a euro lighting colors etc, any idea how well the amber shows up through the red ?

The amber comes through the red lens ok but there is some loss of intensity. I did a little video to show the difference. Not sure if it's helpful. What's the reason for running amber LEDs behind a red lens?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZwUs5VGk28U

It would tie in nicely with my 965 it has (as they all do) full red rear lenses but the indicators show through amber as per normal, I do have a set of both lenses on for the road and one for the MOT over here, the better the amber shows the less I'll attract attention from the police (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[Spoke]

Made some plastic clips for the front LEDs.

These will work different than the rear LEDs as the lens will hold the clips in place. There is virtually nothing to clip onto in the front buckets so these will rely on gravity and the lens in place.

Also in the background is a board with RTV applied to hold the LEDs in place. The RTV isn't as solid as I would like but I haven't found anything else better to use.

[Spoke]

Installation should be easy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

The long clip goes in the back and the small clip goes in the front.

Notice the small clip mounts to the top of the board and its screw comes up from the bottom. The reason for this is twofold; one so the board itself will contact the beveled part of the housing and help keep the board straight, and the screw, if screwed in from the top, would hit the beveled part of the housing.

Both clips should be secured before installing the board.

[Spoke]

Once the clips are attached, the board is ready for installation.

First is to plug the board in to the existing socket. Push in the bulb base with the tip of your finger and twist until seated. The bulb base should go in easily. It might be worthwhile to practice with the existing bulb.

These sockets are 40+ years old and may have a buildup of crud and oxidation. Clean the socket if necessary and use a small amount of lubricant like petroleum jelly to make sure the bulb installs easily.

[Spoke]

Once the board is plugged in, make sure the wire stays out of the way of the rear clip when installing.

Position the front of the board first. There are slots in the board that fit into the ribs of the bucket.

Make sure the board is flush with the front and lower the rear of the board until the clip seats. Try not to push on the LEDs. Push on the clips if some force is necessary to seat the board. If you have to remove the board to reposition, do not grab the LEDs. Use a paper clip and get behind the board to remove it.

Install the lens.

[montoya 73 2.0]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/thumb3d.gif)

[Kansas 914]

I am in when these are ready - I have clear lenses up front but these should be fine.

Love the DRL!

[Cairo94507]

That is really nice. I hope you work your way around the whole car so we can replace all the exterior lighting with LED's.

[euro911]

Jerry, are you still going to produce the non-blanking style?

[Spoke]

Jerry, are you still going to produce the non-blanking style?

Yes, the board is set up to bypass the blanking circuit. Price will be $130 ($10 less than blanking boards)

[euro911]

Cool (IMG:style_emoticons/default/mueba.gif)


Ready when you are (IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)

[charliew]

I will take a US non-blanking set.

[CptTripps]

I'm in too...

[Spoke]

Bought a light meter to better analyze the output of the lights. Seems to work pretty well.



The first lights I looked at where these ones for my 930. They are similar to the 914 brake lights but with 48 LEDs vs 56 LEDs on the 914 brake.



I measured the light output in LUX on the standard bulb and the LED board from about 4 ft away in the garage at night. The opposite light, the center brake light, and the license plate lights were covered up. I measured at 3 angles: 0, 15, and 30 degrees.

Here is the comparison of the 930 taillights. The LED drops off pretty quickly from center but starts at a much higher intensity. This focused intensity of the LEDs was pointed out by some folks.

However, the center relative intensity of the LEDs (directly behind vehicle) for the taillights is over 6x that of the bulb.



This is a comparison of the brake lights on the 930. Here the same profile is evident. Directly behind the vehicle the relative intensity of the LEDs is 3.5x that of the bulb.



I tried to put this information into a format which would directly relate to the light pattern behind the vehicle. This graph shows the brake light pattern as viewed from above the vehicle. The intensities are 1x, 2x, and 3x of the standard bulb.

The driver directly behind the vehicle would see 3x intensity of the bulb.

A driver in the next lane at 10FT left or right from the vehicle about 25FT behind the vehicle would see an intensity about 2x of the standard bulb. This assumes the driving lane is 10ft wide.

[Kansas 914]

Bought a light meter to better analyze the output of the lights. Seems to work pretty well.

That is great data. The key is even with a more drastic drop off the output of LEDs stay above that of the bulb at all times (if I read you right).

Well done.

[peteyd]

Can I get a set of US blanking please.

Pete

[monkeyboy]

I will take a set of US with the blanking please.