914World.com - The largest online 914 community!

Rear trunk floor replace, did you.....................

jwalters	Jan 15 2005, 10:39 AM Post #1
Sooo Close....... Group: Members Posts: 1,677 Joined: 14-May 04 From: Huntsville, AL Member No.: 2,068 Region Association: Europe	(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) Hi guys, once again--at work right now but not allot going on---I am replacing my rear trunk floor and was wondering if anybody else just lapped the new floor right over the old crossmember-or if you actually disemboweled it and put the whole new schebang in...... Thanks in advance.... (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)

IronHillRestorations	Jan 15 2005, 01:23 PM Post #2
I. I. R. C. Group: Members Posts: 6,719 Joined: 18-March 03 From: West TN Member No.: 439 Region Association: None	All of the rear trunk pans I've replaced were only rusted rear of the dogbone shaped crossmember. What we did was to cut out the spot welds that attach the pan to the rear panel and the inner fender. Then along the rear flange of the dogbone, where the pan is spotwelded to the dogbone, you carefully draw a line that centers the flange and cut through the pan with a cut off wheel. This way you've got a lip to hang the pan on. We leave a 1/16" gap and weld the three pieces back together. I've got a 220v spot welder, so that's how the rear of the replacement pans are welded back on here, but you can punch or drill holes and plug weld that. Does this make sense? I'm not sure if I've got pics, but I don't think so. The place you purchased the pan from should give you tech support on this!

Lou W

Jan 15 2005, 02:38 PM

Post #3

"Here Kitty Kitty" my ass......

Group: Members
Posts: 4,109
Joined: 9-May 04
From: Roseburg, OR.
Member No.: 2,039
Region Association: Spain

QUOTE

9146986 Posted on Jan 15 2005, 11:23 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
All of the rear trunk pans I've replaced were only rusted rear of the dogbone shaped crossmember. What we did was to cut out the spot welds that attach the pan to the rear panel and the inner fender. Then along the rear flange of the dogbone, where the pan is spotwelded to the dogbone, you carefully draw a line that centers the flange and cut through the pan with a cut off wheel. This way you've got a lip to hang the pan on. We leave a 1/16" gap and weld the three pieces back together. I've got a 220v spot welder, so that's how the rear of the replacement pans are welded back on here, but you can punch or drill holes and plug weld that.

Does this make sense? I'm not sure if I've got pics, but I don't think so. The place you purchased the pan from should give you tech support on this!

I think pictures would be helpful, I'm about ready to replace mine. thanks, Lou

SirAndy

Jan 15 2005, 03:23 PM

Post #4

Resident German

Group: Admin
Posts: 41,641
Joined: 21-January 03
From: Oakland, Kalifornia
Member No.: 179
Region Association: Northern California

QUOTE (jwalters @ Jan 15 2005, 08:39 AM)

anybody else just lapped the new floor right over the old crossmember-or if you actually disemboweled it and put the whole new schebang in

SpecialK	Jan 15 2005, 04:24 PM Post #5
aircraft surgeon Group: Benefactors Posts: 3,211 Joined: 15-March 04 From: Pacific, MO Member No.: 1,797	Gotta do the same repair when things thaw around here (70F Thursday (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smile.gif) , 12F today (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/mad.gif) ), all pics are helpful and appreciated! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/pray.gif) Andy - Love the "rearview" on that car of yours! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/wub.gif)

Lou W	Jan 15 2005, 05:15 PM Post #6
"Here Kitty Kitty" my ass...... Group: Members Posts: 4,109 Joined: 9-May 04 From: Roseburg, OR. Member No.: 2,039 Region Association: Spain	Andy, very nice job. (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)

McMark	Jan 15 2005, 06:23 PM Post #7
914 Freak! Group: Retired Admin Posts: 20,179 Joined: 13-March 03 From: Grand Rapids, MI Member No.: 419 Region Association: None	Here's the one I did. (IMG:http://www.paintandmetal.com/projects/davila4/davila4-Images/7.jpg) A few more pictures here.

SpecialK	Jan 15 2005, 06:49 PM Post #8
aircraft surgeon Group: Benefactors Posts: 3,211 Joined: 15-March 04 From: Pacific, MO Member No.: 1,797	Hard to tell from the pics, but is the rear of the trunk floor just tacked in every couple of inches? Or did you "connect the dots" and weld it in solid?

SirAndy

Jan 15 2005, 07:42 PM

Post #9

Resident German

Group: Admin
Posts: 41,641
Joined: 21-January 03
From: Oakland, Kalifornia
Member No.: 179
Region Association: Northern California

QUOTE (Special_K @ Jan 15 2005, 04:49 PM)

Or did you "connect the dots" and weld it in solid?

i just used the old spotweld holes. no need to seam weld, IMHO ...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/cool.gif) Andy

jwalters

Jan 15 2005, 08:00 PM

Post #10

Sooo Close.......

Group: Members
Posts: 1,677
Joined: 14-May 04
From: Huntsville, AL
Member No.: 2,068
Region Association: Europe

QUOTE (SirAndy @ Jan 15 2005, 01:23 PM)

QUOTE (jwalters @ Jan 15 2005, 08:39 AM)

anybody else just lapped the new floor right over the old crossmember-or if you actually disemboweled it and put the whole new schebang in

no and no ...

i drilled out the spotwelds around the crossmember, drilled out the spotwelds on the rear and the whole thing just slid out.
did the same with the donor piece, then slid that back in and spot-welded using the original holes ...

enough pix?
(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) Andy

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) Thanks guys--and SirAndy--very nice! The replacement piece I am getting has the rear floor and the top crossmember as one piece---I am not sure yet ifn it is stamped that way or if it is just the way it comes.

Is there anyway I could get you to do a tracing of where the rear lip is tacked to the rear tailight part?? My car was in a tiny crunch many moons ago and the area where the trunk latch is, is pushed in a little from the latch to about 9inches on either side-and kinda rippled-it will still be a couple of weeks until I get the floor and would like to get a jump on it to get this area back to its original countour.

Good luck with all the rest of ya'll--I pick my body up from the blaster in 2 days!!!! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)

SirAndy

Jan 15 2005, 10:11 PM

Post #11

Resident German

Group: Admin
Posts: 41,641
Joined: 21-January 03
From: Oakland, Kalifornia
Member No.: 179
Region Association: Northern California

QUOTE (jwalters @ Jan 15 2005, 06:00 PM)

Is there anyway I could get you to do a tracing of where the rear lip is tacked to the rear tailight part??

i traced out the factory spot-welds/seams in green. if you drill out those welds, you can literally slide the whole clip out the back ...

Attached image(s)

SirAndy	Jan 15 2005, 10:11 PM Post #12
Resident German Group: Admin Posts: 41,641 Joined: 21-January 03 From: Oakland, Kalifornia Member No.: 179 Region Association: Northern California	nuther Attached image(s)

jwalters	Jan 16 2005, 07:27 AM Post #13
Sooo Close....... Group: Members Posts: 1,677 Joined: 14-May 04 From: Huntsville, AL Member No.: 2,068 Region Association: Europe	(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/biggrin.gif) Thanks man! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/beerchug.gif)

« Next Oldest · 914World Garage · Next Newest »

1 User(s) are reading this topic (1 Guests and 0 Anonymous Users)

0 Members: