Hi guys, once again--at work right now but not allot going on---I am replacing my rear trunk floor and was wondering if anybody else just lapped the new floor right over the old crossmember-or if you actually disemboweled it and put the whole new schebang in......

Thanks in advance....

All of the rear trunk pans I've replaced were only rusted rear of the dogbone shaped crossmember. What we did was to cut out the spot welds that attach the pan to the rear panel and the inner fender. Then along the rear flange of the dogbone, where the pan is spotwelded to the dogbone, you carefully draw a line that centers the flange and cut through the pan with a cut off wheel. This way you've got a lip to hang the pan on. We leave a 1/16" gap and weld the three pieces back together. I've got a 220v spot welder, so that's how the rear of the replacement pans are welded back on here, but you can punch or drill holes and plug weld that.

Does this make sense? I'm not sure if I've got pics, but I don't think so. The place you purchased the pan from should give you tech support on this!

QUOTE

9146986 Posted on Jan 15 2005, 11:23 AM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- All of the rear trunk pans I've replaced were only rusted rear of the dogbone shaped crossmember. What we did was to cut out the spot welds that attach the pan to the rear panel and the inner fender. Then along the rear flange of the dogbone, where the pan is spotwelded to the dogbone, you carefully draw a line that centers the flange and cut through the pan with a cut off wheel. This way you've got a lip to hang the pan on. We leave a 1/16" gap and weld the three pieces back together. I've got a 220v spot welder, so that's how the rear of the replacement pans are welded back on here, but you can punch or drill holes and plug weld that. Does this make sense? I'm not sure if I've got pics, but I don't think so. The place you purchased the pan from should give you tech support on this!

I think pictures would be helpful, I'm about ready to replace mine. thanks, Lou

QUOTE (jwalters @ Jan 15 2005, 08:39 AM)

anybody else just lapped the new floor right over the old crossmember-or if you actually disemboweled it and put the whole new schebang in

no and no ...

i drilled out the spotwelds around the crossmember, drilled out the spotwelds on the rear and the whole thing just slid out.
did the same with the donor piece, then slid that back in and spot-welded using the original holes ...

cut out:


donor:


donor in place:






bumper back on & new paint:




like new:



enough pix?
Andy

Gotta do the same repair when things thaw around here (70F Thursday , 12F today ), all pics are helpful and appreciated!

Andy - Love the "rearview" on that car of yours!

Andy, very nice job.

Here's the one I did.



A few more pictures here.

Hard to tell from the pics, but is the rear of the trunk floor just tacked in every couple of inches? Or did you "connect the dots" and weld it in solid?

QUOTE (Special_K @ Jan 15 2005, 04:49 PM)

Or did you "connect the dots" and weld it in solid?

i just used the old spotweld holes. no need to seam weld, IMHO ...

Andy

QUOTE (SirAndy @ Jan 15 2005, 01:23 PM)

QUOTE (jwalters @ Jan 15 2005, 08:39 AM) anybody else just lapped the new floor right over the old crossmember-or if you actually disemboweled it and put the whole new schebang in no and no ... i drilled out the spotwelds around the crossmember, drilled out the spotwelds on the rear and the whole thing just slid out. did the same with the donor piece, then slid that back in and spot-welded using the original holes ... enough pix? Andy

Thanks guys--and SirAndy--very nice! The replacement piece I am getting has the rear floor and the top crossmember as one piece---I am not sure yet ifn it is stamped that way or if it is just the way it comes.

Is there anyway I could get you to do a tracing of where the rear lip is tacked to the rear tailight part?? My car was in a tiny crunch many moons ago and the area where the trunk latch is, is pushed in a little from the latch to about 9inches on either side-and kinda rippled-it will still be a couple of weeks until I get the floor and would like to get a jump on it to get this area back to its original countour.

Good luck with all the rest of ya'll--I pick my body up from the blaster in 2 days!!!!

QUOTE (jwalters @ Jan 15 2005, 06:00 PM)

Is there anyway I could get you to do a tracing of where the rear lip is tacked to the rear tailight part??

i traced out the factory spot-welds/seams in green. if you drill out those welds, you can literally slide the whole clip out the back ...

nuther

Thanks man!