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> RevWife's 914, Pulling a 914 back onto the road
bdstone914
post May 24 2014, 08:59 PM
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They do not get change often. You should be able to access it through the access hole for the fuel pump.
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Mikedrevguy
post May 26 2014, 05:28 AM
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QUOTE(Mikedrevguy @ May 22 2014, 09:26 AM) *

And rear rotors mic out at - 9.75mm
Fronts - 10.4 & 10.2

That's before being turned.


So it pays to read, completely, all the parts, charts, graphs, and the check to make sure there isn't anything that's been missed.
rotor thickness
Looked up info on wear limits for rotors. Wanted to see if they were within tolerances not. Followed the link, read the chart and simply presumed that front and rear rotors had same dimensions. Foolish naive, whatever.
Armed with this misinformation. I set ant pricing out rear rotors, believing they were out of spec.
Yestereve, I read further and discovered the chart for the rear rotor specs which puts these certainly within tolerances.
Again- read. Reread. And read some more.
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Mikedrevguy
post May 26 2014, 07:35 PM
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Got fuel line from tank to tunnel out. No real big accomplishment there.
The filter and pump both had turpentine with residual goo. I believe it was in process of turning back into a dinosaur.
Filter will be replaced- no question.
Re the pump- can it be cleaned, soaked in thinner, brake clean? What will ruin the innards? Or rather what WON'T ruin the innards. Or is this sol and I should just source a new pump?
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jim_hoyland
post May 26 2014, 08:28 PM
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Fuel Tank: there is a copper filter under inside the tank outlet. It's shaped like a sock and designed to keep particles from reaching the fuel pump. You may need a pointed tool to loosen and remove it for cleaning. I just did this and found a fair amount of sediment in the screen; from the look of your fuel gauge sender, there could be a buildup. BTW, the screen are available new if it's really bad

Good luck with the project
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Mikedrevguy
post May 27 2014, 09:45 PM
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$200 to boil, acid wash, and line the tank. In line? Out of line?

Oh, and I got the fuel fittings off the tank, but there was little chance of getting the sock out. Pretty corroded in there. One more to add into the purchase pile.
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Mikedrevguy
post May 29 2014, 06:16 AM
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Report from radiators shop: inside had some rust spots with pin holes. He'll solder those and then line the tank, paint it and it'll be ready for prime time. Pick it up Monday.
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jim_hoyland
post May 29 2014, 06:30 PM
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Get that VIN ?
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AA carries two socks (strainers); one for 70-74, another for 75-76.

111209147A and 113269147
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Mikedrevguy
post May 30 2014, 06:17 AM
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Thanks for the lead and the heads up.
As far as placement- is the sock fitted into the opening that's closest to the midline of the tank?
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hndyhrr
post May 30 2014, 06:50 AM
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that would be the correct one.
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jim_hoyland
post May 30 2014, 08:43 AM
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QUOTE(Mikedrevguy @ May 30 2014, 05:17 AM) *

Thanks for the lead and the heads up.
As far as placement- is the sock fitted into the opening that's closest to the midline of the tank?


Sock will be in the outlet that goes to fuel pump... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Mikedrevguy
post Jun 2 2014, 03:52 PM
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Picked Up the tank today. Looks good. Clean and sealed on the inside. Repainted on the outside.
Ready to get the rest of fuel line cleaned out- let's do it.
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Mikedrevguy
post Jun 2 2014, 06:01 PM
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The fuel lines running through the tunnel, back into the engine bay.
What are they made of?
The return line seems brittle at the end. What is the longevity of these? Would one go about replacing them should they be compromised?
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Bob L.
post Jun 2 2014, 06:43 PM
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QUOTE(Mikedrevguy @ Jun 2 2014, 07:01 PM) *

The fuel lines running through the tunnel, back into the engine bay.
What are they made of?
The return line seems brittle at the end. What is the longevity of these? Would one go about replacing them should they be compromised?


They are plastic and probably should be replaced. 40 year old plastic under pressure can leak = fire. Most folks here use stainless steel lines from Chris Foley(tangerine racing) or Rotary914(in the vendor section where I got mine) There's also a shorter set in the engine bay going through the engine shelf underneath the battery. Those are replaced as well.
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Mikedrevguy
post Jun 2 2014, 07:26 PM
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Thanks, Bob.
What would be the best way of replacing them?
Are they as tic the whole run through tunnel, from the barb fitting to braided hose in the engine bay? Is there a metal section in middle of tunnel?
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hndyhrr
post Jun 2 2014, 07:45 PM
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QUOTE(Mikedrevguy @ Jun 2 2014, 06:26 PM) *

Thanks, Bob.
What would be the best way of replacing them?
Are they as tic the whole run through tunnel, from the barb fitting to braided hose in the engine bay? Is there a metal section in middle of tunnel?


plastic all the way thru.


did mine with engine in not so hard. need two people . one under car to push tube thru and one in car to help guide so it doesn't get hung up on other stuff in there.
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Mikedrevguy
post Jun 2 2014, 08:37 PM
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Thanks,
Reading up on the process from Pelican.
Whelp- I guess this means we've got a clean fuel system, front to back.

What stuff is running down the tunnel that needs to be avoided?

And I just fed the 914world write up on same.



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Mikedrevguy
post Jun 2 2014, 09:34 PM
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Diameter of lines:
I've read of running both supply and return lines in 7/16 ss tubing.
I've also read of doing the return line in 3/8 ss tubing.
And then using 3/8 on supply and 5/16 on return.

What's the difference between the various options.?
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Mikedrevguy
post Jun 9 2014, 07:48 AM
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Has the door latch mechanisms changed? Or are they same part across the years?
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malcolm2
post Jun 9 2014, 09:16 AM
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QUOTE(Mikedrevguy @ May 24 2014, 09:47 PM) *

Thought it might be the filter, but, gosh, you think it could have been placed in a MORE inconvenient place? Hw often should they be changed?
How concerned should I be with the fuel pump, there being THAT much varnish in the tank- will that have gummed up the pump?


If you look in the front trunk the carpet is cut in a small rectangle. behind that is a plate that the pump attaches to. You can work the pump out from under the tank thru that hole. The filter will come out too. It is not very easy, but it can be done.

They moved the pump up front in 74 i believe, maybe 75. Something to do with fires, or fuel smell in the cockpit.

Looks like you have a good car there. Check the pelican parts site, I think they have a long list in their tech articles on getting everything up to snuff.

just the basics.... fuel, brakes, lubrication and electric. Sounds easy. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/blink.gif)
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Mikedrevguy
post Jun 9 2014, 09:58 AM
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Thanks, Malcolm. That's on my list to wrk on today.
Just full of ??? Today-
The top seal that (targa top to se windows): the seal is 23" long while the track is 24". It matches toward the rear, while leaving a 1" gap between the front seal and this one.
Is the problem in the front seal? Or the side seal? It shoes not appear as though the seal has been trimmed- will they shrink? Or symptomatic of bd aftermarket? Or other?
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