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> Replacing Floor Pans, ...here we go!
SirAndy
post Jan 28 2005, 12:23 AM
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QUOTE (CptTripps @ Jan 27 2005, 08:38 PM)
should I try to match where the old ones were?

yes, re-use the holes you drilled. fill them up nicely, make sure the weld penetrates all the way through ...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif) Andy
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CptTripps
post Jan 28 2005, 07:57 AM
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QUOTE (SirAndy @ Jan 28 2005, 01:23 AM)
QUOTE (CptTripps @ Jan 27 2005, 08:38 PM)
should I try to match where the old ones were?

yes, re-use the holes you drilled. fill them up nicely, make sure the weld penetrates all the way through ...

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif) Andy

I can see that for the ones up top, but what about under the car? I'm drilling the part that I'm replacing...right? I'm grinding down the old welds, then making new ones through the new pan.

I guess I'll get a better idea when I have the floor out later today. (At least I hope it's later today!) (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/ohmy.gif)
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IronHillRestorations
post Jan 28 2005, 08:05 AM
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QUOTE (CptTripps @ Jan 27 2005, 08:38 PM)
should I just do one every 4" around the paremeter or something?

More like every 2"
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CptTripps
post Jan 28 2005, 08:08 AM
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QUOTE (9146986 @ Jan 28 2005, 09:05 AM)
More like every 2"

I was afraid someone was going to say that....

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CptTripps
post Jan 28 2005, 07:14 PM
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Had a little more trouble with the spot-welds than I expected. Perry was right...it jumps around a lot. NOT an easy option for anything. I think I'll be going to a regular drill bit and doing it that way.

Option #2 is to use a jigsaw and cut it out. None of the edges are rusty at all, so if I have to butt-weld the whole thing, I'm fine with that too.

I spent most of today cleaning out the garage so I'm getting up at the crack of dawn to start on the car. MUCH nicer with a clean garage...I was just getting sick of the clutter.
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IronHillRestorations
post Jan 29 2005, 08:32 AM
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A 30 minute job with the right tools, right?? (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/laugh.gif)
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CptTripps
post Jan 29 2005, 11:09 AM
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Ok, I think I have a system here for removing the spots. Pics to follow.

FYI: the following took me 15min to do the length of the passenger Long.
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CptTripps
post Jan 29 2005, 11:11 AM
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#1 - Remove all the undercoating. I used a 6" wire-braid cup from NAPA on a high-speed 7" grinder. Comes off like butter. You don't need to go any further than the 1" on either side of the spots. We'll go back over that later.


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CptTripps
post Jan 29 2005, 11:13 AM
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#2 - Drill a small hole in the center of the spots. (I went to a smaller bit after these pics.) Some would say it's not good to go all the way through, but if the long is solid, this shouldn't be an issue. Besides, were going to re-weld something over it and seam-seal the whole thing, so we should be in good shape.


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CptTripps
post Jan 29 2005, 11:15 AM
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#3 - Use the spot-weld remover. Put the center pin in the hole, and it won't jump around on you. You don't need to dig the whole thing out...just get through most of the metal, the other will pop out.


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CptTripps
post Jan 29 2005, 11:17 AM
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#4 - Seperate the pan from the chassis. Let's go back up to the cabin and grab a small pry-bar. Put it in the seam and hit it 1-2 times with a hammer.


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CptTripps
post Jan 29 2005, 11:19 AM
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#5 - Check it out. Your pan should drop easily. You can do the whole thing at once, but it's better to go in sections. Just a little safer IMHO.


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CptTripps
post Jan 29 2005, 11:22 AM
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Ok...Back to the garage to get it all out of there.

If anyone needs specific pics, just ask.

(Also...is this helping anyone, or just me?)

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Chris H.
post Jan 29 2005, 11:40 AM
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Looking good Doug. I don't recall anyone doing a thread on a complete floorpan removal/replacement. This one could be one for the archives once you are done! (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/smilie_pokal.gif)
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CptTripps
post Jan 29 2005, 02:22 PM
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While I was grinding away, I stayed on one part a little long, and ended up burning a hole through the long. Typical!

There was a bit of rust inside, but nothing that had broken through yet. Just a matter of time, so I cut out the 6X3 patch, and welded it up 'while I was in there'. (Famous last words...)


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CptTripps
post Jan 29 2005, 02:23 PM
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Here's the patch I made...


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CptTripps
post Jan 29 2005, 02:25 PM
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I did a bunch of plug welds, but the battery died before I could take the pics. Used my handy-dandy spot remover, and went at it. Worked real well.

So now were back to removing the floor, HOPEFULLY I won't find TOO much more I need to fix. (Again...famous last words.)
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xsboost90
post Jan 29 2005, 03:53 PM
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lookin good, like a friend of mine told me when i first bought this car, it starts with just a little spot of rust.....
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Bleyseng
post Jan 29 2005, 07:42 PM
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I helped to the floorpans on Korijos car what 2 years ago, should be a thread on it still. You are doing it right as it just takes time to first remove the rusty pan and then weld in the new.
It helps if you can get the car in the air as much as possible as its hard welding on your back!

Geoff (IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/html/emoticons/welder.gif)
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CptTripps
post Jan 31 2005, 10:19 PM
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Ok, this is more than I bargained for, but everyone keeps emailing me "you are doing the right thing." I sure hope so. I spent a few hours on it yesterday again, and I feel like I'm getting nowhere. I'll get 8" of it off, and find 3 other things that need repaired. I think I need to stay on task and go back afterwards for all the 'little stuff' I'm finding.

Something I didn't think of was the door gap. I'm not sure if I need to worry about this, but I think I'm going to put the pass-door back on to make sure I'm still ok. Then, make a brace so it won't move on me while I have the floors out.

As for right now, I'm out of steam for this thing. It doesn't help that its friggin freezing outside. Man, I wish we'd bought a house with a heated garage...or even attached!
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