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> Tangerine oil pressure valve, am I missing something? new on won't go in all the way
DRPHIL914
post Oct 11 2014, 08:00 AM
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So I pulled the cap for the oil pressure valve and a spring and small piston came out. The new one should just go right in ? Is there another piston up in there that didn't come out? Here is what I have .


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malcolm2
post Oct 11 2014, 08:30 AM
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I'm sure Chris will chime in. I don't have one of these, but thinking I'll get one.

I wonder if the old piston wore a ridge in the hole? Cause it looks like the TR thing is slightly longer than the spring. How much short are you?

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DRPHIL914
post Oct 11 2014, 08:51 AM
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Considering the plug had ti acres in and compress the spring I am not sure. Maybe a half inch or a bit more

QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Oct 11 2014, 10:30 AM) *

I'm sure Chris will chime in. I don't have one of these, but thinking I'll get one.

I wonder if the old piston wore a ridge in the hole? Cause it looks like the TR thing is slightly longer than the spring. How much short are you?

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malcolm2
post Oct 11 2014, 08:56 AM
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does the screw on the side of the new device stay in? Can't find the part on the TR website. Found a picture in an old post.

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DRPHIL914
post Oct 11 2014, 09:18 AM
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QUOTE(malcolm2 @ Oct 11 2014, 10:56 AM) *

does the screw on the side of the new device stay in? Can't find the part on the TR website. Found a picture in an old post.

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The screw stays I n and slides in the groove.
But it does not Go in that far


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ChrisFoley
post Oct 11 2014, 09:24 AM
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The lower area where the spring moves during engine operation does wear substantially.
I'm not surprised the fit near the top seems tight.
That will ensure the o-ring provides a good seal when its held in place with the cap.
If you want, compare the diameter of your piston with the diameter of the o-ring using a dial (or digital) caliper
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DRPHIL914
post Oct 11 2014, 10:16 AM
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Chris thanks for replying to my PM and also posting here I'm sure it will help others if they have the same problems it is a bit tight but with just a little bit of a twist and tap it seeded fine.it was able to then to slide all the way up in the place as I tighten the screw cap on. Right now I seem to be having a problem tightening the cap down tight enough to eliminate the leak when I turn the car on. Hard to get enough pressure and leverage laying on your back into the car but I think I need a bigger wider screwdriver to really get it to seat tight I'm wondering if I should have a new washer and if that would make a difference.
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ChrisFoley
post Oct 11 2014, 11:12 AM
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I guess it's possible the factory tolerances on the hole depth were looser than the small o-ring at the top can accomodate.
If the hole in your crankcase is more than 20 thousandths shorter than the one I used for reference it might make sealing difficult.
A new washer would help in that case, or a bigger screwdriver might be enough to eliminate the last thou or two of gap.
However, I would think if you had enough torque to loosen it, you should have enough to tighten it.
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DRPHIL914
post Oct 12 2014, 04:07 PM
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Finally got it tightened down enough to eliminate the leak. Probably should have used a new washer there but with a much bigger longer flat head screw driver and a large wrench for leverage, it probably only rotated another 10-15 degrees but that did it. Took it for a short test drive but real test will be getting out on the freeway to see how much it helps with temps but pressures good.
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DRPHIL914
post Oct 14 2014, 07:01 AM
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Update- highway speed test for 30 minute drive each way yesterday- outside temps were @ 90, .
my oil temp did not exceed 210. next test will be a run on the interstate- more at the 75mph range.

right now my initial impression is that just running around here local highway etc temps are about 10-15 degrees cooler. on a 90 degree day i left it idling in the drive way while sorting out another issue and the temp never went over 185-190.

I did order a deep sump thing but not sure if that will be necessary, and i had considered putting in an external cooler, again since i dont have to really run this car hard its probably not necessary. Now if i lived up in the mountains i probably would!!!
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Johny Blackstain
post Oct 14 2014, 07:20 AM
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Sorry Phill, slight hijack. I'm curious if anyone can chime in on this; comparing what Phill installed (Tangerine Racing), vs. the old "Rapid Cool" kit & the "Weltmeister" kit. They all address the same issue & all get installed exactly the same in the same locations... (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)


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ChrisFoley
post Oct 14 2014, 08:45 AM
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Al,
Those products only increase the pressure at which oil bypasses the galleys.
They may also increase the pressure at which oil bypasses the cooler circuit but they don't address wear in the crankcase passage where the pressure relief assembly operates.

My product eliminates all cooler bypass and raises the overall bypass pressure.
It also eliminates the pressure lowering effect of a worn crankcase relief passage.
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Johny Blackstain
post Oct 14 2014, 08:58 AM
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QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Oct 14 2014, 10:45 AM) *

Al,
Those products only increase the pressure at which oil bypasses the galleys.
They may also increase the pressure at which oil bypasses the cooler circuit but they don't address wear in the crankcase passage where the pressure relief assembly operates.

My product eliminates all cooler bypass and raises the overall bypass pressure.
It also eliminates the pressure lowering effect of a worn crankcase relief passage.

Interesting & thanks for the info Chris. Certainly answers the question of what exactly the differences are. Sorry again for the SOT hijack Phill.
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DRPHIL914
post Oct 14 2014, 12:55 PM
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QUOTE(Johny Blackstain @ Oct 14 2014, 10:58 AM) *

QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Oct 14 2014, 10:45 AM) *

Al,
Those products only increase the pressure at which oil bypasses the galleys.
They may also increase the pressure at which oil bypasses the cooler circuit but they don't address wear in the crankcase passage where the pressure relief assembly operates.

My product eliminates all cooler bypass and raises the overall bypass pressure.
It also eliminates the pressure lowering effect of a worn crankcase relief passage.

Interesting & thanks for the info Chris. Certainly answers the question of what exactly the differences are. Sorry again for the SOT hijack Phill.

no problem , it was very much on topic and good to know. I was not aware of those products.
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Johny Blackstain
post Oct 14 2014, 04:13 PM
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There is a 4th Phill, however I've been informed that they're only for type I engines, not type IV- @ least according to this link:

http://www.headflowmasters.com/vw-oil-pres...ml#.VD0tYGMtB9A
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Jake Raby
post Oct 14 2014, 04:43 PM
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And, someone failed to realize that there's at least 3 different pressure relief bore sizes.

There's a 4th, if you consider engines that were remanufactured by VWOA in Canada.
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billh1963
post Oct 14 2014, 05:43 PM
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QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Oct 14 2014, 06:43 PM) *

And, someone failed to realize that there's at least 3 different pressure relief bore sizes.

There's a 4th, if you consider engines that were remanufactured by VWOA in Canada.


What is the impact of that?
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Jake Raby
post Oct 14 2014, 11:05 PM
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QUOTE(billh1963 @ Oct 14 2014, 03:43 PM) *

QUOTE(Jake Raby @ Oct 14 2014, 06:43 PM) *

And, someone failed to realize that there's at least 3 different pressure relief bore sizes.

There's a 4th, if you consider engines that were remanufactured by VWOA in Canada.


What is the impact of that?


One size may fit most, but not all. This is the reason why we never sold pressure relief kits.
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boxsterfan
post Oct 15 2014, 02:32 AM
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(IMG:style_emoticons/default/popcorn[1].gif)
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Dave_Darling
post Oct 15 2014, 01:49 PM
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QUOTE(Johny Blackstain @ Oct 14 2014, 03:13 PM) *


Linky no worky. The link is a shortened one from some BBS that does the shortening automagically. To get the actual link, right-click and choose "copy link location".

--DD
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