So I pulled the cap for the oil pressure valve and a spring and small piston came out. The new one should just go right in ? Is there another piston up in there that didn't come out? Here is what I have .

I'm sure Chris will chime in. I don't have one of these, but thinking I'll get one.

I wonder if the old piston wore a ridge in the hole? Cause it looks like the TR thing is slightly longer than the spring. How much short are you?

Considering the plug had ti acres in and compress the spring I am not sure. Maybe a half inch or a bit more

does the screw on the side of the new device stay in? Can't find the part on the TR website. Found a picture in an old post.

Click to view attachment

The screw stays I n and slides in the groove.
But it does not Go in that far

The lower area where the spring moves during engine operation does wear substantially.
I'm not surprised the fit near the top seems tight.
That will ensure the o-ring provides a good seal when its held in place with the cap.
If you want, compare the diameter of your piston with the diameter of the o-ring using a dial (or digital) caliper

Chris thanks for replying to my PM and also posting here I'm sure it will help others if they have the same problems it is a bit tight but with just a little bit of a twist and tap it seeded fine.it was able to then to slide all the way up in the place as I tighten the screw cap on. Right now I seem to be having a problem tightening the cap down tight enough to eliminate the leak when I turn the car on. Hard to get enough pressure and leverage laying on your back into the car but I think I need a bigger wider screwdriver to really get it to seat tight I'm wondering if I should have a new washer and if that would make a difference.

I guess it's possible the factory tolerances on the hole depth were looser than the small o-ring at the top can accomodate.
If the hole in your crankcase is more than 20 thousandths shorter than the one I used for reference it might make sealing difficult.
A new washer would help in that case, or a bigger screwdriver might be enough to eliminate the last thou or two of gap.
However, I would think if you had enough torque to loosen it, you should have enough to tighten it.

Finally got it tightened down enough to eliminate the leak. Probably should have used a new washer there but with a much bigger longer flat head screw driver and a large wrench for leverage, it probably only rotated another 10-15 degrees but that did it. Took it for a short test drive but real test will be getting out on the freeway to see how much it helps with temps but pressures good.

Update- highway speed test for 30 minute drive each way yesterday- outside temps were @ 90, .
my oil temp did not exceed 210. next test will be a run on the interstate- more at the 75mph range.

right now my initial impression is that just running around here local highway etc temps are about 10-15 degrees cooler. on a 90 degree day i left it idling in the drive way while sorting out another issue and the temp never went over 185-190.

I did order a deep sump thing but not sure if that will be necessary, and i had considered putting in an external cooler, again since i dont have to really run this car hard its probably not necessary. Now if i lived up in the mountains i probably would!!!

Sorry Phill, slight hijack. I'm curious if anyone can chime in on this; comparing what Phill installed (Tangerine Racing), vs. the old "Rapid Cool" kit & the "Weltmeister" kit. They all address the same issue & all get installed exactly the same in the same locations...

Al,
Those products only increase the pressure at which oil bypasses the galleys.
They may also increase the pressure at which oil bypasses the cooler circuit but they don't address wear in the crankcase passage where the pressure relief assembly operates.

My product eliminates all cooler bypass and raises the overall bypass pressure.
It also eliminates the pressure lowering effect of a worn crankcase relief passage.

Interesting & thanks for the info Chris. Certainly answers the question of what exactly the differences are. Sorry again for the SOT hijack Phill.

no problem , it was very much on topic and good to know. I was not aware of those products.

There is a 4th Phill, however I've been informed that they're only for type I engines, not type IV- @ least according to this link:

http://www.headflowmasters.com/vw-oil-pres...ml#.VD0tYGMtB9A

And, someone failed to realize that there's at least 3 different pressure relief bore sizes.

There's a 4th, if you consider engines that were remanufactured by VWOA in Canada.

What is the impact of that?

One size may fit most, but not all. This is the reason why we never sold pressure relief kits.

Linky no worky. The link is a shortened one from some BBS that does the shortening automagically. To get the actual link, right-click and choose "copy link location".

--DD

Click on this:
headflowmasters.com/vw-oil-pressure-valve

latest test,

Click to view attachment

an hr run time,
1200RPM

exhuast stuff is NOT hooked up yet.

Old Post but figured I would add since I installed last week.

To remove the big screw I took a wide impact screwdriver bit in my smaller milwuakee m12 impact wrench. Tap, tap ... came right out versus fighting with a screwdriver.

I wanted to replace crush ring on big screw. Thus kit from Amazon has a great assortment. I like the bonded washers, they also have regular aluminum.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014S1J4TE

There is a note in the instructions about cold oil creating too much pressure with this valve and to let oil warm up before exceeding 4k rpm. How big a concern is this especially with heavier weight oil like Brad Penn. Does warm-up mean run for a minute or does it mean wait until full operating temps?

Washer thickness is important, A much thicker washer may compromise the top seal on the pressure relief valve. A much thinner washer will not seal at the bottom.

Regardless of which pressure relief is installed this applies. Somewhere between seems to make the most sense to me.
When it's cold out an 80psi gauge will be pegged on startup. I like to see the idle pressure start to drop before driving.
In my race car I would not use full throttle or high rpm until the oil temp exceeds 120F.

Thanks Chris.

So, in general, should these sort of pressure boost assemblies be used mostly for racing or in vehicles with known low oil pressure issues? Mine is a relatively low miles 2.0 that runs really well. While I am trying to do good things for my engine, do the risks outweigh the potential benefit? I do not always have time for a 10 minute warm up and getting to 4k rpm comes pretty quickly in a 914 I know low pressure is bad, can high pressure also harm engine?