Tangerine oil pressure valve, am I missing something? new on won't go in all the way Options

[ChrisFoley]

http://www.headflowmasters.com/vw-oil-pres...ml#.VD0tYGMtB9A

Linky no worky. The link is a shortened one from some BBS that does the shortening automagically. To get the actual link, right-click and choose "copy link location".

--DD

Click on this:
headflowmasters.com/vw-oil-pressure-valve

[majkos]

latest test,



an hr run time,
1200RPM

[majkos]

exhuast stuff is NOT hooked up yet. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/dry.gif)

[Amphicar770]

Old Post but figured I would add since I installed last week.

To remove the big screw I took a wide impact screwdriver bit in my smaller milwuakee m12 impact wrench. Tap, tap ... came right out versus fighting with a screwdriver.

I wanted to replace crush ring on big screw. Thus kit from Amazon has a great assortment. I like the bonded washers, they also have regular aluminum.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014S1J4TE

There is a note in the instructions about cold oil creating too much pressure with this valve and to let oil warm up before exceeding 4k rpm. How big a concern is this especially with heavier weight oil like Brad Penn. Does warm-up mean run for a minute or does it mean wait until full operating temps?

[ChrisFoley]

I wanted to replace crush ring on big screw. Thus kit from Amazon has a great assortment. I like the bonded washers, they also have regular aluminum.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014S1J4TE

Washer thickness is important, A much thicker washer may compromise the top seal on the pressure relief valve. A much thinner washer will not seal at the bottom.

There is a note in the instructions about cold oil creating too much pressure with this valve and to let oil warm up before exceeding 4k rpm. How big a concern is this especially with heavier weight oil like Brad Penn. Does warm-up mean run for a minute or does it mean wait until full operating temps?

Regardless of which pressure relief is installed this applies. Somewhere between seems to make the most sense to me.
When it's cold out an 80psi gauge will be pegged on startup. I like to see the idle pressure start to drop before driving.
In my race car I would not use full throttle or high rpm until the oil temp exceeds 120F.

[Amphicar770]

Thanks Chris.

So, in general, should these sort of pressure boost assemblies be used mostly for racing or in vehicles with known low oil pressure issues? Mine is a relatively low miles 2.0 that runs really well. While I am trying to do good things for my engine, do the risks outweigh the potential benefit? I do not always have time for a 10 minute warm up and getting to 4k rpm comes pretty quickly in a 914 I know low pressure is bad, can high pressure also harm engine?