2.0 Engine Rebuild Advice Options

[VWTortuga336]

I'm working on stripping down my 2.0L out of my '74. I've done a top end rebuild on my '71 Type 1 engine, but am new to Type IVs and bottom end rebuilds. So, I'm looking for some advice.

So far, from what I can tell the heads on my engine look like they are still in good, re-usable condition, but the engine is seized and the cylinders are badly rusted to the pistons. At this point, would I be better off just using the BFH method to destroy the 94mm cylinders that installed now and go with 96mm's, or is there any hope in saving these? (I'm thinking there isn't) Also, there was water in the case, so what does that typically mean for internal component replacements - cam, crank, bearings, etc? (IMG:style_emoticons/default/confused24.gif)

Just in the planning phase now and trying to collect as much info as possible.

[eyesright]

My 2.0 was a '76 with lower compression dished pistons. I probably could have used them but I wanted to go with flat top pistons, while sticking with 2.0 L. It was my first rebuild so I wasn't ready to try a 2056, y'know, minimize the variables. The next one might be a 2056 but I am very happy with my 2.0. Lots of power and torque for me as a daily driver. ( I got it up to 125 indicated with standard tires the other day just for fun. Didn't stay there long.)

Ham, Inc did my heads and I used a Raby 9550 cam kit.

Are '74 pistons flat or dished?

It's worth the effort to do it yourself. If I was intending to track it, I'd probably go with a professional unless I really knew what I was doing.

Good luck.

[VWTortuga336]

I'm planning on doing as much of the work myself as I possibly can, I'll only be using it for occasional (as much as weather permits) driving.

The pistons that are in there now are domed. I'm not sure what the CR ratio is on them. I'm sure someone out there knows though.

[barefoot]

I'm going thru the same thing presently and plan on going to 96 mm P&C's and probably a better cam for carbs as my engine was already converted from FI.
I'm having the case split and cleaned by a shop familiar with type 4's cause of some water in the cylinders and fear of junk, corrosion in the cases. Will have shop do new bearings & seals and bolt the cases back together, then I can install everything else myself.
Will have main oil galleries tapped for pipe plugs instead of OEM pressed in plugs as part of case cleaning work.

I was able to pull cylinders off the pistons with a little gentle BFH work, then crank turned freely.

have fun !
Barefoot

[mapguy]

I am also going through this right now. I decided that 2056 was the way to go, mainly due to the better quality of the components. You're going to be out for new jugs and pistons anyway, why not go with the good 96mm KB units from European Motor Works?

Even if everything else is stock, this will be a better engine. If the FI tuning is turning you off, keep in mind that bleysing can do the tuning for you at a very reasonable cost.

There is really no reason NOT to go 2056 in my opinion, given that you'll have to replace these parts anyway.

My $.02

[DavidSweden]

What components do you have to change when changing to bigger pistons?

[VWTortuga336]

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but it's my understanding that the 96mm will fit with no modifications.

[Bob L.]

You can get the 96mm pistons and if your cylinders are not too buggered up have them bored out to 96mm. I think the pistons come with new wrist pins and rings. Just make sure you get the right pin height. It depends on the crank you use. I don't know which but 22 or 24mm IIRC.

It should assemble with no other mod's. re-tune MPS and (IMG:style_emoticons/default/driving.gif)

[pilothyer]

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but it's my understanding that the 96mm will fit with no modifications.

Absolutely Positively (IMG:style_emoticons/default/biggrin.gif)

[mapguy]

Correct, the 96mm P/C fit with no modification. If you can get the pistons unsiezed, and the pitting is not too bad, have the machine shop bore your 94s to 96, and you have a drop-in mod.

Be sure to get the 96mm pistons with stock pin height and the 24mm pin. There are many versions of these pistons, so call EMW if you are confused. Rings are sold separately, and do not come with the pistons.

[VWTortuga336]

Well, I am just about to the point where I'm thinking the only way these cylinders are coming off is in tiny pieces. So, new cylinders are in my future. Now my question becomes should I just replace the 94mm cylinders and keep the domed (I'm assuming high compression) pistons, or replace it all and go 96mm???

[stugray]

You should be able to get the pistons out without destroying the cylinders.
Then have the cyls bored out and get the EMW Keith Black pistons w/ hastings rings.

The webcam 86b will work good with that and carbs.

Your bigger worry is the crank. Hope it is salvageable. You might need to have it turned and new oversized bearings.
Then you get the case line bored BEFORE you buy new main bearings.
While they do that, have the deck checked and zeroed.

Inspect all of the exhaust studs and get those repaired/replaced if required.

[VWTortuga336]

Stupid question time: what do I need to look for on the crank and exhaust studs? Several of the exhaust nuts were rusted on and ended up just taking the whole stud out. Didn't break the stud, just took the whole thing out.

Also, one of my biggest motivators to just destroy and replace the cylinders is they have several broken fins already.

[r_towle]

If you cannot move it, put it on a stand, tip it side ways and fill up each piston with a good penetrating oil.
Might take days of this treatment on both sides to get it to move.
You don't need, nor want to spin the crankshaft.
You just want to see each piston move in the cylinder.

I had one motor all seized up for a 356.
It was very important to save this motor.
I bought two or three gallons of penetrating oil and a large plastic tub.
I submersed the motor for a week, it worked.

Do that and report back.

DPR sells crankshafts
Elgin Camshafts
bearings, seals etc can be had from lots of vendors, but don't buy any bearings until to have the case and rods inspected, cleaned up and measured by a machine shop.

Rich

[VWTortuga336]

Here's a pic of one of the cylinders, showing the broken fins. I'm thinking this shouldn't be reused, but want to get other opinions.

[VWTortuga336]

Anyone have any opinions on these fins? Also, is the extra 85cc worth the price of new P&C? I know those questions may be a bit subjective, but I am just looking for opinions.

[pilothyer]

Anyone have any opinions on these fins? Also, is the extra 85cc worth the price of new P&C? I know those questions may be a bit subjective, but I am just looking for opinions.

OK, Here's my opinion...........Don't use those......Get new.

If that's not enough check with a good shop that uses a torque plate when boring and honing the cylinders..........compare that price to new cylinders, you will see that new is the way to go.

[Bulldog9]

I kept my original P&C's, & have them in a box. Chose to order new from European Motor Works. Lots of opinions, and the most common is to have originals bored to 96MM. Conventional wisdom says they are of a higher quality Iron. I have no experience or reason other than new felt right, and my source was highly recommended as having high quality stuff. Plus a quality clean, bore and hone was PRICEY........ Just diddnt seem worth it.

No decision if I will sell the originals yet, they are in great shape.

[VWTortuga336]

I took everyone's advice and decided to go with new P/C, so I just smashed mine with a hammer (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif) cylinders are off, but I can't remove the pistons because the crank is seized. I tried to split the case and found out the hard way that you can't get the halves apart with the pistons on (IMG:style_emoticons/default/sad.gif)

Any suggestions on what to do now?

[stugray]

You can either remove the rods from the crank, or remove the pistons from the rods.

Edit - oops, if the crank is seized, you cant rotate to get at all of the pieces required to do either of those options.

Soak until you can rotate