So my 914 tried to kill me the other day, need some advice Options

[ThePaintedMan]

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That's the choke plate. You need that wide open to see down into the carb and the throttle plates. Disconnect the little ball attachment on the linkage of the carb and see what happens, again with the engine off. Does the throttle fully return to stop smoothly?

That being said, if you go to dual carbs, most setups can utilize the stock 914 accelerator cable, complete with the *correct* crimped ferrule end. On the single carb setups like yours, that ferrule/end of the cable must cut off so you can feed it into the pivot ball attachment, which eventually causes the cable to fray. If you buy a new cable and use it on that carb, you'll have to buy another one if/when you go the dual carb route.

Might I suggest if you indeed go the dual carb route that you look at SteveGM's carb setup in the classifieds? That is a complete setup, ready to go - all you need is a new throttle cable. This is a beautiful setup and looks plug-and-play. Only needs new intake gaskets and the throttle cable.

If you want an even better solution, easy to synch and with great throttle response, look at Tangerine Racing's cable throttle linkage setup. Chris makes a phenomenal product and his setup uses the stock cable with no modifications as well.
www.tangerineracing.com

[stevegm]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

That's the choke plate. You need that wide open to see down into the carb and the throttle plates. Disconnect the little ball attachment on the linkage of the carb and see what happens, again with the engine off. Does the throttle fully return to stop smoothly?

That being said, if you go to dual carbs, most setups can utilize the stock 914 accelerator cable, complete with the *correct* crimped ferrule end. On the single carb setups like yours, that ferrule/end of the cable must cut off so you can feed it into the pivot ball attachment, which eventually causes the cable to fray. If you buy a new cable and use it on that carb, you'll have to buy another one if/when you go the dual carb route.

Might I suggest if you indeed go the dual carb route that you look at SteveGM's carb setup in the classifieds? That is a complete setup, ready to go - all you need is a new throttle cable. This is a beautiful setup and looks plug-and-play. Only needs new intake gaskets and the throttle cable.

If you want an even better solution, easy to synch and with great throttle response, look at Tangerine Racing's cable throttle linkage setup. Chris makes a phenomenal product and his setup uses the stock cable with no modifications as well.
www.tangerineracing.com

My carbs (http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=245178) came off of an engine that I drove in the car last week. They are complete. I bought the car which had a new engine and had been run only an hour. I drove the car around the block last week, pulled the motor, and pulled the carbs. I believe your accelerator cable will work fine with them. But, you really need a new cable. That one is frayed pretty bad.

[dcecc1968]

(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif)

That's the choke plate. You need that wide open to see down into the carb and the throttle plates. Disconnect the little ball attachment on the linkage of the carb and see what happens, again with the engine off. Does the throttle fully return to stop smoothly?

That being said, if you go to dual carbs, most setups can utilize the stock 914 accelerator cable, complete with the *correct* crimped ferrule end. On the single carb setups like yours, that ferrule/end of the cable must cut off so you can feed it into the pivot ball attachment, which eventually causes the cable to fray. If you buy a new cable and use it on that carb, you'll have to buy another one if/when you go the dual carb route.

Might I suggest if you indeed go the dual carb route that you look at SteveGM's carb setup in the classifieds? That is a complete setup, ready to go - all you need is a new throttle cable. This is a beautiful setup and looks plug-and-play. Only needs new intake gaskets and the throttle cable.

If you want an even better solution, easy to synch and with great throttle response, look at Tangerine Racing's cable throttle linkage setup. Chris makes a phenomenal product and his setup uses the stock cable with no modifications as well.
www.tangerineracing.com

George,
Thanks for the suggestion. As you can tell, my carb knowledge (and terminology) is limited at best. Not knowing what they were called, I did already ensure the true throttle plates returned to normal position... and initially only one opens up then as the throttle increases the other opens up... I'm guessing I observe the definition of "progressive" carbs, correct?

Funny thing is I already spoke to Steve about his carb set up, but he was not sure if it was appropriate for a 1.7L engine. I've seen some threads that certain sizes (40, 36, etc.) were only appropriate for certain engines. I know you have rebuilt carbs before, what are your thoughts? Also, I noticed that Redline sells dual carb set-ups for @ $400 without the linkage bar (http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk412.htm) I'm assuming these are not "real" weber carbs or a modern knock-off. What do you know about them?

[ThePaintedMan]

George,
Thanks for the suggestion. As you can tell, my carb knowledge (and terminology) is limited at best. Not knowing what they were called, I did already ensure the true throttle plates returned to normal position... and initially only one opens up then as the throttle increases the other opens up... I'm guessing I observe the definition of "progressive" carbs, correct?

Funny thing is I already spoke to Steve about his carb set up, but he was not sure if it was appropriate for a 1.7L engine. I've seen some threads that certain sizes (40, 36, etc.) were only appropriate for certain engines. I know you have rebuilt carbs before, what are your thoughts? Also, I noticed that Redline sells dual carb set-ups for @ $400 without the linkage bar (http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/product_p/wk412.htm) I'm assuming these are not "real" weber carbs or a modern knock-off. What do you know about them?

Yep, that's why it's considered progressive. See, you know more than you think. The secondary comes in mechanically on the Weber 32/36 (what you have on your car). On old American carburetors you might have heard the term "vacuum secondary". Same idea - the secondary throat comes in adding more fuel and air under increased engine load, but uses vacuum signal from the intake.

Find out if Steve can give you an idea of what size venturis (chokes) are on this dual carb setup. With 40 Webers and the 1.7 you have you want 28mm venturis (usually what they have stock). He can look down into the barrels and see the number stamped on the top of them.

The Redline units are EMPI carbs - search here and you'll see that they're very hit or miss. Lots of casting problems and other issues. I've never tried them but after reading what everyone else says, I wouldn't bother.

[Heeltoe914]

[quote name='blabla914' date='Nov 11 2014, 09:32 AM' post='2109229']

[/quote]

at some point soon you should consider replacing those boots that connect your plenum to the runners. They all looked pretty cracked. That will make a big vacuum leak and certainly not help the situation. Naturally this is after you fix your frayed throttle cable.

Kelly
[/quote]


(IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) (IMG:style_emoticons/default/agree.gif) tighten all bolts around the carb body

[stevegm]

My carbs have 32mm venturis, based on the receipt for them. I looked down in there and didn't see the stamping. I have heard that 32s work with a 1.7, and I have also heard that 28s are better. But you can always change them out. If you want them I'll take $650 for the whole set up (carbs, manifolds, linkage, and filters) to help cover the cost of new venturis.