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> 222, Here we go again
Randal
post Nov 21 2014, 10:50 PM
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Going to put her back together. The D Sport Racer will just have to happen later.

Looking for all good ideas on weight savings.
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ConeDodger
post Nov 22 2014, 12:53 AM
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EdwardBlume
post Nov 22 2014, 08:54 AM
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Well that's good news! Let me know if you need a hand...
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Woody
post Nov 22 2014, 10:50 AM
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SirAndy
post Nov 22 2014, 12:46 PM
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QUOTE(Randal @ Nov 21 2014, 08:50 PM) *
Looking for all good ideas on weight savings.

Where are you at right now? I haven't had a good look at 222 in a while ...
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Mueller
post Nov 22 2014, 01:32 PM
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Gun drilled axles?

Ceramic rotors?


What size rotors do you have now?
Do you really need rotors that big?)


Drilling holes to lighten bolts...replacing nuts with aluminum nuts in certain places where there is mostly a shear force?
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Borderline
post Nov 22 2014, 01:34 PM
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Good decision!!! I've got some Koni rears in the shop that I've been keeping around....just in case. Not sure about springs though.

As for wt reduction: You don't need an oil cooler for AX or hillclimb. Your front air dam and splitter seemed pretty heavy to me. Are you still running steel doors? Mikey found some F/G door skins that are very light and not too expensive. That's all I can think of for now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)
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Randal
post Nov 22 2014, 01:54 PM
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QUOTE(Borderline @ Nov 22 2014, 11:34 AM) *

Good decision!!! I've got some Koni rears in the shop that I've been keeping around....just in case. Not sure about springs though.

As for wt reduction: You don't need an oil cooler for AX or hillclimb. Your front air dam and splitter seemed pretty heavy to me. Are you still running steel doors? Mikey found some F/G door skins that are very light and not too expensive. That's all I can think of for now. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smile.gif)


Right on the front cooler. That Mazda cooler I had was big and with -10lines, fittings and oil was a lot of weight. Always thought I'd be doing a bunch of track work.

Also bi-passing the thermostat (forward and return lines( will be easy. Just need to find a U fitting with male connections. Here is a picture of the current setup.

Attached Image

So which bumper did you use on the top Bill? Need to find one of those then do some sheet metal below and then hang a splitter off the bottom.

My doors are like 13lbs as they sit now/

Losing the Targa, behind the driver, would save some serious weight. Ummm.
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Randal
post Nov 22 2014, 01:57 PM
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QUOTE(SirAndy @ Nov 22 2014, 10:46 AM) *

QUOTE(Randal @ Nov 21 2014, 08:50 PM) *
Looking for all good ideas on weight savings.

Where are you at right now? I haven't had a good look at 222 in a while ...
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As she stands now.

Attached Image

Attached Image
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Randal
post Nov 22 2014, 02:00 PM
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QUOTE(Mueller @ Nov 22 2014, 11:32 AM) *

Gun drilled axles?

Ceramic rotors?


What size rotors do you have now?
Do you really need rotors that big?)


Drilling holes to lighten bolts...replacing nuts with aluminum nuts in certain places where there is mostly a shear force?


Where do you get ceramic rotors? Also wondering how much they cost.

There are 911 rotors and calipers on the front. Back rotors and calipers are stock.

How much weight does one save drilling the existing rotors?

Could switch over to lighter calipers on the front.....
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Randal
post Nov 22 2014, 02:09 PM
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QUOTE(Randal @ Nov 21 2014, 08:50 PM) *

Going to put her back together. The D Sport Racer will just have to happen later.

Looking for all good ideas on weight savings.



I had the three qt. Accusump on the car that I sold. Want to put one back, but the question is just how big a unit does a Type 4 really need? Accusump has 1/2 or 3 qt. units.

The protection I'm looking for is corner surge, but just how much additional oil does one really need to protect the bearings?
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gryphon68
post Nov 22 2014, 06:09 PM
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Aftermarket Carbon Ceramic Brakes shown at SEMA this year:

http://www.fusionbrakes.com/
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Krieger
post Nov 22 2014, 07:33 PM
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Krieger
post Nov 22 2014, 07:36 PM
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I have seen rear rotors lightened by cutting/drilling the horizontal hub section. Don't know how safe. I think it was the blue smirf/Blholder
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Randal
post Nov 22 2014, 07:44 PM
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QUOTE(Krieger @ Nov 22 2014, 05:36 PM) *

I have seen rear rotors lightened by cutting/drilling the horizontal hub section. Don't know how safe. I think it was the blue smirf/Blholder



I know Bill Charron also did some nice machining on his to drop weight. Or maybe he just drilled some big holes..

Those ceremic disks are a bit pricey at $11,000 a set.
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ThePaintedMan
post Nov 22 2014, 08:29 PM
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... which reminds me of the old saying... "How fast can you build this car to go?" "I dunno, how much do you want to spend?"


I always thought that was a really good looking car Randal. Would love to see it in person someday.

I would think your best bang for the buck would be to spend your money on reducing sprung weight. You mentioned lighter (aluminum) calipers, and drilling the rotors. For an AX car, I bet that would be the best place to start.

Looking at the rest of the car, there isn't much that you already haven't modified, so not many other places where you could save weight. I would say the next step would require major fabrication. Replacing the front and rear bulkheads with a tubed setup (i.e. between the front shocktowers and the between the rear shocktowers.) I think that's what Paul (URY914) did and his car most definitely the lightest 914 I know of. Beyond that, you'd probably have to get Paul to make you some one piece fiberglass panels from his molds! Those things are amazing, and replace both the left and right sides of the car in one long piece. Maybe he'll post some pics.
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Krieger
post Nov 22 2014, 08:40 PM
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What does she weigh now?
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Jetsetsurfshop
post Nov 23 2014, 07:19 AM
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QUOTE(Krieger @ Nov 22 2014, 06:40 PM) *

What does she weigh now?


It looks really light to me. I'm guessing 1725lbs.
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Randal
post Nov 23 2014, 10:07 AM
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QUOTE(Krieger @ Nov 22 2014, 06:40 PM) *

What does she weigh now?


In her previous configuration she was 1680#.

Without the front oil cooler and lines (filled with oil) probably save 30#.

A smaller Accusump will save another 10#.

A new bumper and sheet metal set up for the front will save 10-15#

Drilling the rotors will save ?

Wilwood calipers will save ?

Targa top would be 20# at least.

I'm going to add on a electric steering assist unit which is +10#

Also a steering-quickner which is a couple of lbs.

If I can figure out a good stock shifter together with Foley's shift rod and transmission adapter guessing another 10#

Thinking if I could lose a net of 70# that would be good.

About 9lbs per rear wheel hp...
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J P Stein
post Nov 23 2014, 01:24 PM
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Just my opinion.
You've gone far enough with the car as built. Me thinks you'd have to lose a LARGE chunk of weight.....150-200lbs or so.....to get maybe a half second improvement in your times.
I don't think that will be enough.
There are options...but you prolly don't want to hear them so I won't waste both of our time.
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