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> Troubleshooting: 2.0 won't stay running
Nate
post Nov 26 2014, 03:36 PM
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Hey everyone! Hope you are all preparing for a nice thanksgiving.

Wanted to see what ideas you guys had about my original FI 2.0 from 73. Some of you may have seen a few other threads of mine but I'll give a little synopsis. I rebuild the motor in my garage. New Pistons and cylinders, all new bearings, lifters. Ground crank and cam. Heads rebuilt by a reputable shop. For the rest of the car. New fuel lines, cleaned and coated fuel tank. New fuel filter. Cleaned and flow matched fuel injectors. Rebuilt distributor. Tuned dwell angle and set static timing.

So I've done all of that and the car won't stay running. It'll start and run for 20 seconds with a high idle (approximately 2500 rpm's) and then it will die even if I'm feathering the throttle.

I'm looking for ideas as to what and how to troubleshoot the car. IF this car was a person I'd strangle it to relieve my frustration.

P.S. I went through the ecu harness and ohm'd everything out and there are no shorts in the wiring and the grounds are solid. I also replaced the throttle position switch and have that set up according to the book and have messed with the idle mixture knob a bit.
Anyone have any ideas on where I should go from here?

Thanks and I wish everyone a good safe holiday.
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saigon71
post Nov 26 2014, 04:21 PM
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Have you tested your fuel pump?
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gasman
post Nov 26 2014, 04:32 PM
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Got to put a gauge on the fuel system..(fuel rail). Also try replacing the fuel relays.
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Nate
post Nov 26 2014, 04:41 PM
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I have not bench tested the fuel pump but I can see it pumping fuel through the clear fuel filter while cranking the motor. I will look into the fuel relays. Thanks for the tip. I have not had a chance to check fuel pressure as I don't have the necessary apparatus and haven't built one yet.
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saigon71
post Nov 26 2014, 04:59 PM
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QUOTE(Nate @ Nov 26 2014, 06:41 PM) *

I have not bench tested the fuel pump but I can see it pumping fuel through the clear fuel filter while cranking the motor. I will look into the fuel relays. Thanks for the tip. I have not had a chance to check fuel pressure as I don't have the necessary apparatus and haven't built one yet.


Fuel pressure test should show if the pump is working properly. I picked up a kit at Harbor Freight for less than $15 (I think) to check fuel pressure. Just pull the bolt out of the drivers side fuel rail and hook up the gauge.

Keep us posted on what you find out.
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914_teener
post Nov 26 2014, 05:31 PM
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Find somebody close to help you.
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Nate
post Nov 26 2014, 05:34 PM
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Good call on a harbor freight fuel pressure gauge. I'll pick one up and let you guys know what I find!
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toadman
post Nov 26 2014, 07:56 PM
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Although they are nearly bullet proof, I had starting problems that I traced to a bad ECU/fuel injection brain. I found it by accident. I was troubleshooting and accidentally touched the ECU and felt a hot spot on the case. Something failed inside and it generated some heat that heated up the outside of the ECU.
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boxsterfan
post Nov 27 2014, 12:13 AM
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Cylinder Head Temp Sensor?


Been through the pbanders site?

http://members.rennlist.com/pbanders/DJetParts.htm
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Java2570
post Nov 27 2014, 09:56 AM
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Check out your trigger points in the base of the distributor, maybe swap them out with another set; also make sure the connector is secure and not vibrating loose when the engine is running.
Check the condition of the points plate ground wire in the distributor.
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Luke M
post Nov 27 2014, 10:08 AM
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Cylinder Head Temp Sensor?

I agree check it.. A friend and I spent several hours looking over his engine to finally find a bad sensor.. it was a quick fix once we figured it out.. We never thought about it as it's out of sight out of mind type of thing..
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pvollma
post Nov 27 2014, 01:46 PM
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QUOTE(saigon71 @ Nov 26 2014, 06:59 PM) *

I picked up a kit at Harbor Freight for less than $15 (I think) to check fuel pressure.


I'm interested in adding a pressure tester to my toolbox. Is this the Harbor Freight pressure tester you referenced?

Fuel Injection Pump Tester

However, the description states that it does not work with Bosch systems.
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saigon71
post Nov 27 2014, 08:21 PM
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QUOTE(pvollma @ Nov 27 2014, 03:46 PM) *

QUOTE(saigon71 @ Nov 26 2014, 06:59 PM) *

I picked up a kit at Harbor Freight for less than $15 (I think) to check fuel pressure.


I'm interested in adding a pressure tester to my toolbox. Is this the Harbor Freight pressure tester you referenced?

Fuel Injection Pump Tester

However, the description states that it does not work with Bosch systems.


Just checked...That's exactly the one I bought. I just used a hose clamp on the fuel rail and used the supplied fittings up to the gauge.

It did what I needed it to do. Maybe they are referring to newer Bosch FI systems?
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Nate
post Nov 28 2014, 01:18 AM
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QUOTE(Java2570 @ Nov 27 2014, 07:56 AM) *

Check out your trigger points in the base of the distributor, maybe swap them out with another set; also make sure the connector is secure and not vibrating loose when the engine is running.
Check the condition of the points plate ground wire in the distributor.


This points plate ground wire that you speak of. Is it a small braided wire type of deal?
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Java2570
post Nov 28 2014, 06:47 AM
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QUOTE(Nate @ Nov 28 2014, 02:18 AM) *

QUOTE(Java2570 @ Nov 27 2014, 07:56 AM) *

Check out your trigger points in the base of the distributor, maybe swap them out with another set; also make sure the connector is secure and not vibrating loose when the engine is running.
Check the condition of the points plate ground wire in the distributor.


This points plate ground wire that you speak of. Is it a small braided wire type of deal?


Yes, the small braided copper wire is connected to both plates.

Attached Image
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Nate
post Nov 28 2014, 04:18 PM
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Okay guys. So, I resoldered the points plate ground wire since that had come off of the top plate. I also verified that the fuel pressure was at approximately 30psi. Still no dice. I'm going to pull the head temp sensor and test that. I'm kind of worried as to what I do if it's bad though since they are so hard to get ahold of for the 1973 2.0L. I guess mine requires the 0 280 130 017 Bosch part number which are near impossible to obtain.
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76-914
post Nov 28 2014, 08:19 PM
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You can add a resistor to the std temp sensor or install a variable resistor instead.
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bandjoey
post Nov 28 2014, 09:03 PM
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Points and condenser or the little electronic gadget that replaces them? Like Pertronix?

There was a thread talking about the screw holding the Pertronicd plate to the distributor was grounding the unit and to cut doen that screw.

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Nate
post Nov 28 2014, 09:05 PM
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Alright guys. I've tried everything you have recommended I check. Just finished installing a potentiometer in line with the cylinder head temp sensor and have messed with different ohm values to try to get it to run. This is a 73 and I'm not running the ballast resistor. Could that be the problem?

This car ran 10 years ago. I just rebuilt the motor but didn't change any sensors or electronics aside from rebuilding the distributor with new cap, points, etc. I should also mention that it ran better than this a few weeks ago before I realized the injectors were gummed up and sent them off for cleaning.

Any other diagnostics I can perform to get this thing going? It needs to get back on the road and it's so close!
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Nate
post Nov 28 2014, 09:06 PM
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Joey. I'm using stock style points and condenser.
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