Troubleshooting: 2.0 won't stay running Options

[bandjoey]

Sounds like it's time for a BBQ and repair party. Good luck. (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smash.gif)

[Java2570]

Yep, being in Southern CA you should be able to get some local help in your area. Offer up a beer & food event and you'll get some good help! The ballast resistor will only add about 270 ohms to the resistance of the CHT. You could try disconnecting the intake air temp sensor (on the plenum, right by the TPS)...it will slightly richen the mixture. See if that helps at all. I've also heard of people getting stuck injectors after getting them back from being cleaned. I'm sure at this point, you feel like you're chasing your tail...nothing beats getting a new set of eyes on the issue(s).

[boxsterfan]

Tried a different ignition switch? Injector to ecu connectors on the right ones? Spark plugs wires going to the right locations? Cracked relay board? Bad/intermittent voltage regulator? Pinched fuel line (is the fuel pump fairly quiet or does it make a bunch of noise....ie sound too loud)?

Very tough problem. Sounds like it cranks. Sounds like you got fuel. Sounds like you got spark.

[Nate]

Tried a different ignition switch? Injector to ecu connectors on the right ones? Spark plugs wires going to the right locations? Cracked relay board? Bad/intermittent voltage regulator? Pinched fuel line (is the fuel pump fairly quiet or does it make a bunch of noise....ie sound too loud)?

Very tough problem. Sounds like it cranks. Sounds like you got fuel. Sounds like you got spark.

Could be a pinched fuel line since I dropped the tank back in. But I don't really think so. I'll check that tomorrow. Connectors are on the right injectors. Plug wires are routed correctly. Relay board looks perfectly fine. Haven't checked the voltage reg but I will.

Ive pretty much run out of the big ticket items to check. Even if there is a peripheral item that is malfunctioning it seems like the car should run somewhat. All that I've been able to muster is about 10 seconds of run time and that is after I haven't tried to start it for a while. After that initial 10 second run, it shuts itself off and then all I get is for it to run for a couple seconds and then it shuts off each subsequent time I try to start it.

[boxsterfan]

Tried a different ignition switch? Injector to ecu connectors on the right ones? Spark plugs wires going to the right locations? Cracked relay board? Bad/intermittent voltage regulator? Pinched fuel line (is the fuel pump fairly quiet or does it make a bunch of noise....ie sound too loud)?

Very tough problem. Sounds like it cranks. Sounds like you got fuel. Sounds like you got spark.

Could be a pinched fuel line since I dropped the tank back in. But I don't really think so. I'll check that tomorrow. Connectors are on the right injectors. Plug wires are routed correctly. Relay board looks perfectly fine. Haven't checked the voltage reg but I will.

Ive pretty much run out of the big ticket items to check. Even if there is a peripheral item that is malfunctioning it seems like the car should run somewhat. All that I've been able to muster is about 10 seconds of run time and that is after I haven't tried to start it for a while. After that initial 10 second run, it shuts itself off and then all I get is for it to run for a couple seconds and then it shuts off each subsequent time I try to start it.

My car has been on jackstands all fall since a failed fuel pump. I had the tank back in a couple times. One time it ran but wouldn't stop with turning off the key. Eventually degraded to a no-start.

In your case, perhaps enough gas is getting through a pinched supply line. Once you start the car though, the suction from the pump closes the supply line completely and there you go.

I put in the 30R9 fuel hose. Stuff loves to bind up.

[gasman]

When the engine stalls....do you still have 30 PSI at the injectors?

[Bartlett 914]

My first thought was a pinched or kinked fuel line but this does not account for the high idle. You may have a couple of issues. I would look into a pinched fuel line first.

[Nate]

Okay. So I checked for a kinked fuel line and did not find one. Gasman, I have noticed that I have 30psi while cranking the motor but as soon as I stop cranking the psi immediately drops to 20psi and then slowly falls to zero from there.

[boxsterfan]

Okay. So I checked for a kinked fuel line and did not find one. Gasman, I have noticed that I have 30psi while cranking the motor but as soon as I stop cranking the psi immediately drops to 20psi and then slowly falls to zero from there.

What's the PSI look like right after the car stalls? Or as it is headed into stalling?

Other places to check for "kinked hose" (besides up at the front gas tank) are where you connect the hose to the fuel rails. Also, where you connect the fuel rails to the injectors. For example, when I was putting my new fuel line in, I didn't quite get the clamp up far enough and it was half on/half off the end of the fuel rail and pinching the hose.

[Java2570]

You never really said whether you were using the original fuel pump or a new replacement. I ran my car earlier today and still am showing about 10psi on my inline pressure gauge. It shouldn't fall to zero that fast....perhaps your fuel pump is either not working correctly or on it's way out? I think you said you bench tested the pump but maybe the pump wiring has got an intermittent issue while the car is running.

[Nate]

I'm not sure what the fuel psi is right before it stalls. I haven't been able to start it today. I will try to check that out though. There are no kinks in the lines between the fuel rails and injectors either. I'm not sure if the pump is original or replacement. It appears original. When I say the pump falls to zero, what I mean is that after the fuel pump stops running the psi immediately drops to 20 and then it takes another 45 minutes or so for it to slowly drop from 20 to 0. I know that the pump has a check valve that holds pressure after the pump shuts off but I have read that the chances of that effecting anything as long as the pump is running are minimal. But I guess at this point I'm down to the less common problems...

[Bartlett 914]

I'm not sure what the fuel psi is right before it stalls. I haven't been able to start it today. I will try to check that out though. There are no kinks in the lines between the fuel rails and injectors either. I'm not sure if the pump is original or replacement. It appears original. When I say the pump falls to zero, what I mean is that after the fuel pump stops running the psi immediately drops to 20 and then it takes another 45 minutes or so for it to slowly drop from 20 to 0. I know that the pump has a check valve that holds pressure after the pump shuts off but I have read that the chances of that effecting anything as long as the pump is running are minimal. But I guess at this point I'm down to the less common problems...

The Fuel pump has a check valve in it. The fuel is leaking back into the tank past this valve. This amount of pressure drop after the pump shuts off is pretty common and not a real problem

[Nate]

The Fuel pump has a check valve in it. The fuel is leaking back into the tank past this valve. This amount of pressure drop after the pump shuts off is pretty common and not a real problem

That's the impression I was under. Thanks for confirming.

I think I'm going to try some new FI points in the bottom of the distributor. These weren't part of my rebuild kit and I figure it couldn't hurt to try them out because they are cheap.

Can anyone confirm which distributor I have though? There is stuff crossed out so I want to be sure I have the right one and order the right points.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1292.photobucket.com-17807-1417393386.1.jpg)

Looks like 039 905 205 A. This doesn't appear to be the right distributor for my year (73) but I know the car ran before with it.

[Phoenix914]

The fuel filter may be partially clogged and restricting the fuel flow. You may want to replace it for good measure.

I was having a similar problem with my '73 - it would start sometimes and run for a few seconds, and then die and not start until it sat for a while. I finally took the fuel filter off and found it was really clogged. I haven't put a new one on yet, but that was definitely part of the problem, if not the entire problem.

[Java2570]

The Fuel pump has a check valve in it. The fuel is leaking back into the tank past this valve. This amount of pressure drop after the pump shuts off is pretty common and not a real problem

That's the impression I was under. Thanks for confirming.

I think I'm going to try some new FI points in the bottom of the distributor. These weren't part of my rebuild kit and I figure it couldn't hurt to try them out because they are cheap.

Can anyone confirm which distributor I have though? There is stuff crossed out so I want to be sure I have the right one and order the right points.

(IMG:http://www.914world.com/bbs2/uploads_offsite/i1292.photobucket.com-17807-1417393386.1.jpg)

Looks like 039 905 205 A. This doesn't appear to be the right distributor for my year (73) but I know the car ran before with it.

The 205A was for '74 2.0L, it should work ok for your car....not sure what was changed on your dizzy. Maybe it was recurved to be a 205A? 205B was the dizzy for '75-76.
As far as I know, the trigger contacts were all the same part # shared with all the different engines. Be careful buying new trigger contacts, I've heard that some being sold are counterfeit.....I don't think new units are being made anymore. Contact Bruce Stone for good trigger contacts, he should have some.

[914_teener]

So..... why would you check the trigger points before you would check flow at the injectors?

Hint:

Rhetorical quesrion.

[bandjoey]

Fuel filter flow on backwards?

[Nate]

Fuel is flowing through the filter the correct way so that's not it. I'm not sure why someone would spend the money on the points before checking flow through the injectors. But my injectors are flowing so I'm moving up the line at this point.

[914_teener]

At the right rate? If not then that sounds like something to check out...assuming you are referencing the trigger points and not breaker points.....unless your are running something else. Those rarely go bad...although I have had a set go bad......the fiber blocks were almost worn out.

It was suggested a while back that it just might be a bad ECU....if all other components on D-jet check out...logically...then you may want to consider a known unit that is confirmed on an engine that runs with no problems.

It just sounds like you are frustrated and chasing your tail from your posts. Do the logical things in the right order and you will find the problem.

If you don't know what those steps are.....then you will need to start from the beginning to eliminate something you missed.

There are plenty on posts via searching here on this site plus the vaunted Anders site.

Ask me how I know all this?

[Nate]

I pulled the plugs today. Don't really know why I didn't do this sooner. Probably because they were brand new with the rebuild and I didn't think they would be at fault. They were a bit oil fouled. Possibly from the break in of the engine. So I cleaned them up and will see what happens. I'll keep you guys posted.