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mbseto |
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#1
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,257 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
I suppose air tools are as much 914-related as jackstands are... And although these days it seems they are considered disposable, this one has grown on me and a rebuild kit is available so I did the work. Maybe someone out there may benefit from the photos.
It's a 3HP motor, which is within a 1/2HP of my push mower. EDIT: Guess I should mention, it's an ATSCO 1700. ![]() ![]() ![]() |
mbseto |
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#2
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,257 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
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mbseto |
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#3
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,257 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
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mbseto |
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#4
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,257 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
The motor endcaps/bearing cups are line-to-line fit with a key. Once the regulator is out of the way, they can be pushed out with the shaft.
![]() Here's one end off, showing the rotor: ![]() And the other end popped out with the shaft attached. If everything is clean, the vanes will just fall out. Vanes are a replacement item: ![]() The cap and the bearing cup on this end are separate pieces. There's the shaft key for the rotor lying there and the other gasket to be replaced: ![]() |
02loftsmoor |
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#5
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 577 Joined: 26-June 11 From: Ft. Worth TX Member No.: 13,243 Region Association: Southwest Region ![]() ![]() |
I used those before, Man killer
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mbseto |
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#6
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,257 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
This shaft assy was a bit of a puzzle. Decided to ask a guy at the maintenance place before I got too far up the "bigger hammer" ladder. He said, put the shaft ket back in the slot and slide the rotor back on the shaft. Wrap the rotor in a piece of leather or similar and clamp gently in a vise. Then spin the end plate off using the flats:
![]() If the bearing needs to be replaced, it is pressed in to the plate with the bolt holes, and trapped by the adjacent plate, which is screwed on with left-hand threads. That adjacent plate has no flats, there is just a hole in the side of it, I assume to take a spanner-like tool if you do not want to use a more galoot-like method of removal. |
mbseto |
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#7
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,257 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
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mbseto |
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#8
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Senior Member ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 1,257 Joined: 6-August 14 From: Cincy Member No.: 17,743 Region Association: North East States ![]() |
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ThePaintedMan |
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#9
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Advanced Member ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Group: Members Posts: 3,887 Joined: 6-September 11 From: St. Petersburg, FL Member No.: 13,527 Region Association: South East States ![]() ![]() |
Now THAT'S cool! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/smilie_pokal.gif)
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