Liquid welds on the tranny case, JB Weld, Permatex Gear Oil RTV Gasket Maker, ?? Options

[Hank914]

I have a tranny case leak that needs a repair. Here is a pic of the leak, which when warmed up is about one large drop a second.




I figure that I should do a real weld for the permanent fix, but would like to do a temp fix so I can drive over to my welder brother-in law about a 100 miles away.

So, what is the best liquid weld goop for this type of a hole (about 1-2 mm in diameter)?

[Hank914]

Here is a somewhat in focus close up of the hole.



The hole is about 1-2mm.

Is JB Weld high heat a good option?

The auto parts guy said the Permetex Gear Oil is better since gear oil will come into contact.

Or should I just not do the liquid weld, and only do a real welding job?

If so, what are the best welds for a tranny (aluminum or magnesium?) case?

Thanks for any and all advice!

[Harpo]

Your trans case is magnesium. Good luck

David

[Mike Bellis]

Drill it, tap it and install a plug.

Or

Find a new transmission...

[Hank914]

Drill it, tap it and install a plug.

Thanks for the idea.
How thick is the case wall?
What size plug?
Permanent welded plug or removeable?

[Mike Bellis]

Drill it, tap it and install a plug.

Thanks for the idea.
How thick is the case wall?
What size plug?
Permanent welded plug or removeable?

I would use a 1/8 NPT plug. There should be enough material to tap it. If the case is magnesium, you will not be able to weld it. If you try, it will be a spectacular firework display. The magnesium will ignite and not go out until it consumes itself.

[SirAndy]

Drill it, tap it and install a plug.

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In addition to that i would also ask myself how the heck did that hole get there in the first place.
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[Bruce Hinds]

It would be a no brainer to try the JB weld.

I had an oil leak in a Dodge 440, only above a certain RPM(at higher oil pressure). it was a thin spot in the block casting near an oil galley. I widened the slight crack and wedged in a small sheet metal screw coated with JB weld. Never leaked again.

Just get the case as clean as possible . . .

[jd74914]

If the case is magnesium, you will not be able to weld it. If you try, it will be a spectacular firework display. The magnesium will ignite and not go out until it consumes itself.

Just a small correction, magnesium is weldable and welds quite like aluminum. I've never done it but have heard is is actually just a little easier to weld than aluminum. You just can't get shavings too hot or they will burn. You really need to put a lot of energy into magnesium to make it burn (we use magnesium castings extensive on some of our racecars and you really have to try to burn the chips left over from machining).

Welding dirty transmissions does suck though so I wouldn't recommend it! (IMG:style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif) The drill and tap or JB weld method is much better.

[veekry9]

Welding is possible,but,the damaged area will require thorough cleaning with brake cleaner and filing.
The plug method is a good idea provided you use a material that will not react with the magnesium.
The epoxy is the cheapest and quickest needing no removal,prep as for welding though,clean clean.
Do not use the JB as it contains iron and will corrode.

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/5-minute-e...nge-25ml/947622
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[partwerks]

I used JB weld on a old 30+ year old, Campbell Hausfeld air compressor that had a chunk of the shaft where the key way is, got chipped out, and was not enough meat left to support the pulley. I just sanded it a bit, sprayed it with brake parts cleaner, and got a new key, and then turned it on it's side, and JB welded the whole end together as one unit. Still working today. I wasn't going to dump a bunch of $ into an old compressor.

[veekry9]

Oh yeah,I used the stuff for similar repairs,indispensable.
Glue the wings together with a tailored epoxy for aluminum etched surfaces.
Filled the injector ports of a cylinder head after drilling a 1/16" hole and inserting a length of pin.Works to this day 16yrs later.



Head from a '94 Cavalier,adapting a '91 manifold.
Port injectors needed a port hump cast into the head,filled with Epoxy.
The pin is to ensure the filling never falls into the valve.
Careful with that drill.The old manifold held the filling in place.
Otherwise a massive air leak.

[a few loose screws]

I'm another vote for installing a plug. As a side note, anyone interested should check out the devcon line of products for all your liquid weld and patch job needs. It's the real deal, all good stuff. They have epoxies with stainless steel, aluminum, titanium, ceramic and bronze. They have a good quick patch for emergencies called fastmetal. I've used it personally on a cracked wheel loader transmission case, good temporary fix.

[Geezer914]

If the hole is small, say 1/8" just run a small tap in the hole to give it some teeth for the epoxy to grip. I've used Devcon Liquid Aluminum on a number of things including fixing a crack on a Triumph TR4 thermostat housing.

[johnhora]

I've used JB Weld on 911 mag intake manifolds before and it held up just fine.
This was to repair a crack in one of the mounting holes on the end. It's a spot that gets tightened down too hard and can crack. The JB Weld held and still is....think I may still have it and will take a picture.
The only thing is it was off the car and cleaned up and prepped before using.
Might be harder with the leak for it to dry properly....

[veekry9]

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_U...81606&rt=r3

Try this adhesive.
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[iamchappy]

JB Weld will work fiine, it's whats used on the 6 oil galley plugs.

[Dr Evil]

A little back story...

This is the replacement tranz for the one he had explode on him. He has, in fact, had two issues that I have never seen, and that suck, happen to him. Do not get on a plane with Hank914....just sayin (IMG:style_emoticons/default/wink.gif)

Seriously, that hole was missed by me. When I had that core, it never leaked a drop and I thought nothing of it. I dont usually have to inspect cases as they have always been obvious. There was no trauma to this case based on the condition of the rest of the case and area around the hole.

I think the tap and plug method is brilliant. I was only thinking quicksteel or JB.

Hank, let me know the total of whatever you need to buy/do to have it fixed and I will get a check off to you.

[Cap'n Krusty]

Every one of these solutions, except maybe drilling and tapping, requires a CLEAN surface wherever the glue will have to stick. That means removing EVERY trace of gear oil from the area involved. As the hole is on the bottom, that means pulling the gear cluster and cleaning the inside of the case, flushing the hole/crack with a good solvent, turning it upside down, and heating the area to "sweat" any remaining contaminant from the problem area. With the case still warm, apply the JB Weld or other appropriate epoxy to the affected area and give it 24 hours to dry. DO NOT use the quick cure stuff, as you sacrifice a good part of the effectiveness of the repair in exchange for the speedy cure time.

Edit: I would certainly try to determine the thickness of the affected area before I chose a tapered pipe plug. If it's as thin as I think it may be, there might not be enough metal to ensure a good seal.

The Cap'n

[Dr Evil]

I can verify, but a 1/8" or slightly bigger plug should be no prob. I agree that any epoxy will need absolute clean. There may be products out there that are specific for this kind of thing and are activated by petroleum. Not sure.